Lithium battery comment...

[RDWII]

I put a lithium battery in Wolfie. apparently I have a parasitic drain, as today the battery was at 2.3v. The brands own lithium charger/maintainer (the very same one I forgot to connect two weeks ago...) was showing no charge activity with flashing red light.

Something to be aware of if you use this brand, Deltran Battery Tender Junior/lithium, is that the charger wont produce any current to charge unless it senses at least four volts.

I put my standard charger on for a bit, and it should happy it up. Now to find the parasitic drain... Otherwise happy with the brand. Operator error on this instance.

 

[Gray Ghost]

Not the same type of battery, but I had one so far depleted that my Genius charger wouldn't charge it. Hooked it up to another vehicle for a bit using jumper cables and it got enough juice that the charger would work. Hope you find your drain, those are a royal pain.

 

[Bfromla]

Good luck to hi ding the drain. As to the charge, you may remove battery & take to where you bought explain the low voltage charging problem:dontknow: They may have alternate charger to get you going:thumbup: Hopefully. Would not try regular charger as LI are picky & dont react well when not right!

 

[robertl]

Lithium batteries require a special charger. Some have reported issues in cold temps also. Others not so tough to know until they become more popular.

Using a standard charger could ruin the lithium battery if the charger has automatic desulfation mode.

Lot of info on the Internet but just make sure to use a compatible charger.

 

[RDWII]

Lithium batteries require a special charger.

This IS the correct charger, they are both the battery tender junior lithium set.

The reason for the lack of current output below four volts likely has to do with the guts of the charger operating at 5 volts. It will see below 4 as an "off"state and not allow the system to energize.

I just share this as a way of educating, the system has some situations that need to be worked around.

I am happy with the system overall.

 

[Bob Denman]

Dick,
Have you had a chance to investigate that parasitic drain yet? :dontknow:

 

[RDWII]

Dick,
Have you had a chance to investigate that parasitic drain yet? :dontknow:

I just did a measurement. with all extra (add-on) circuits disconnected there is an average of 600 MICROamps current flowing.. There is a constant rotation of five readings 3 of them around 500 micro, one at around 1100 micro (1.1milliamp), another about 800 as it settles back to around 5-600 micro. I assume that this rotation is somehow the brainboard going through its electronic gymnastics.

I am of the opinion that 1 milliamp or less is nothing to worry about. When I ahve more time (Easter sunday) I will add the circuits back in one at a time and see which one, if any, makes it jump.

Thats all for now.

 

[Bob Denman]

Good luck, and Happy Hunting!! :thumbup:

 

[billybovine]

I just did a measurement. with all extra (add-on) circuits disconnected there is an average of 600 MICROamps current flowing.. There is a constant rotation of five readings 3 of them around 500 micro, one at around 1100 micro (1.1milliamp), another about 800 as it settles back to around 5-600 micro. I assume that this rotation is somehow the brainboard going through its electronic gymnastics.

I am of the opinion that 1 milliamp or less is nothing to worry about. When I ahve more time (Easter sunday) I will add the circuits back in one at a time and see which one, if any, makes it jump.

Thats all for now.

You did not say what year and model of spyder you have. By your avatar it is not an RT. If you have a RS or ST 2013 or later. The throttle bodies are held shut for 40 minutes after turning the key off. Keep that in mind when taking your readings.

 

[RDWII]

You did not say what year and model of spyder you have.

its on 08 RS....

 

[CoolSpyder2014]

electrical issue

I have been in to electronics since I was 5, you can add a one to the back of that now. Electronic/ electrical circuits can drain low level current off into the air around them, even if the circuit is open, or the switch is in the off position. Just like a long tethers can pickup free energy just by moving through the earths magnetic rings. the reason this happens is that the moisture in the air actually partially closes the circuit, and hence you have current flow. As long as your levels are well below 1 Amp you should be fine, but as that number increases it can drain the battery, and worse depending on how high that drain is, it could became an electrical short/ and maybe a fire. As you current drain numbers jump, unless a circuit is on,..it is less likely atmospheric and more likely an electrical failure/short on your ride. Also when reading a circuit, you have to wait for the reading to settle before documenting it. As with any circuit, when you first close it, there is a current spike to get things up and running, even if its just an Ohm meter , there is a slight spike. this is more apparent on old style meters where the needle slams to the far right, then the digital readout meters/computers we use today . Ok enough basics, I am sure your a sleep. key thing to check, all electrical connections are clean of corrosion, wires are not frayed or exposed, near the chassis this could be a big current sucker. Also take the time to check any add-ons you have had installed, or installed yourself. Hey, we are all human and to ERR , is human. And yes I've had my ERR today. LOL. By the way when checking those add-ons. Look at the quality of workmanship of the entire circuit, are there any cold solder joints, or is it all crimps, if it looks like it was built in a cave, but not by Tony Stark, its probably crap, and your better of with out that option then without your ride when it catches fire. OK BLAH BLAH BLAH. :banghead:I'll leave you alone now. feel free to message me any questions related to topic. And try to get out there today and enjoy the ride!!!!!!!!!!!
Best to you all
Robbie

 

[spyderCodes]

Sorry if I missed this but did you say what the aH (amp hour) rating was of your Lithium Battery?
And is it a Lithium Iron or Lithium ion.

 

[RDWII]

Sorry if I missed this but did you say what the aH (amp hour) rating was of your Lithium Battery?
And is it a Lithium Iron or Lithium ion.

Lithium Ion. Specs below.




Style: BTL24A360C | Configuration: Battery Only
[h=3][/h]Deltran Battery Tender's line of Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) engine start batteries are designed to replace Flooded, AGM, and Gel cell lead acid batteries in Power Sport applications such as motorcycles, ATVs, personal water craft, lawn mowers, utility vehicles, scooters, and dirt bikes. Up to 80 percent lighter and 5X the Life of a Lead Acid Equivalent with 2000+ deep cycles at 80 percent depth of discharge. Foam spacers included to fit multiple size battery boxes. Quad Terminal Configuration and the ability to be mounted in any direction makes installation a snap. Warning: Do not use a battery charger with a desulfation mode and/or a peak voltage exceeding 14.8 Volt, Damage may result. Replaces Yuasa batteries: YB16-B, YB16-B-CX, YB16HL-A-CX, YB18L-A, YB30CL-B, YTX20H-BS, YTX24HL-BS, YTX20HL, YTX20HL-BS-PW. Specifications: Voltage: 12 Volt; Cold Cranking Amps: 360; Lead-Acid Replacement Range: 21-24(Ah); Operating Temperature: 40 - 140 Degree (Fahrenheit); Max Charge Rate: 10 Ampere; Case Dimensions: 6.49 inch (165 millimeter) length x 3.38 inch (86 millimeter) width x 5.11 inch (130 millimeter) height; Weight: 2.6 pounds.

 

[spyderCodes]

I tried to use a Shorai Battery [FONT=arial, verdana, sans-serif]of similar specs.
In fact I tried two of them.
All was well for a few weeks, then the batteries both lost their ability to crank, even after using the recommended charger/maintainer.
My conclusions were that the charging system of the Spyder was not compatible with the battery technology.[/FONT]