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Liquid Performance Ethanol Equilizer

I think you'll find that most here don't put anything other than fresh gas in their tanks....fresh is the key. A lot of us "store" our rides for the off months and maybe add just a bit stabilizer of some sort. I think you'll find that your Spyder will be just fine without adding anything to the tank with the exception of storage time if you do so
 
It does not say it will remove 'Ethanol Additives'. Ethanol IS the additive. It actually doesn't say it removes anything. One of the reviewers says that it has kept his carburetor from getting gummed up. Spyders don't have carburetors. But the gist is that it may clean the fuel system components. Preventing phase separation (because ethanol and gasoline don't really mix and will separate as the ethanol takes on water over time) is only necessary if you're going to let the fuel sit for a month or more. And not nearly as necessary if you're using non-ethanol fuel.

Many use some kind of fuel system treatment from time to time. If you're using ethanol fuel, it is a good idea to use some kind of moisture remover.

These kinds of additives are a preventative maintenance product. The only way they can deliver more power and fuel mileage is to prevent the fuel from deteriorating in the tank. They won't make any difference with fresh fuel run out before it starts to go bad.
 
Run a tank or two of pure gas if you can find it. And store your bike with it if you do that. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:
 
Ethanol Free Gas

:coffee: I have a local Gas station, near the lake, that has Ethanol Free.
I have been using this during the Spyder lay up time.......:thumbup:
 
Where I live both 95 and 98 octane gasoline has 5% ethanol. Around 5 months of winter storage with just a full tank has not caused any issues for any of my vehicles, motorbikes, newer fuel injected cars, or old american muscle cars.
I might have just been lucky of course, using a fuel stabilizer seems like a cheap insurance if you know you will store the bike for a really long time :)
 
Where I live both 95 and 98 octane gasoline has 5% ethanol. Around 5 months of winter storage with just a full tank has not caused any issues for any of my vehicles, motorbikes, newer fuel injected cars, or old american muscle cars.
I might have just been lucky of course, using a fuel stabilizer seems like a cheap insurance if you know you will store the bike for a really long time :)

95 & 98 octane - - WOW, I couldn't find any auto currently being sold that requires even close to that level of Octane ...... Mike :ohyea:
 
Most MSDS will reveal something about the product. I cannot find a MSDS on the web for it.
A couple other products from them are all listed as Proprietary additives.
I say oil of snake, and tears of unicorn are likely present.
Pass.
You want something that cleans injector tips, lubes the fuel pump, and offsets the drying effects of ethanol in the fuel.
Bell Performance has an excellent line of fuel adds if you feel like you need something. https://www.bellperformance.com/hubfs/1-SDSs/Ethanol%20Defense%20SDS_0614.pdf
My personal blend is SeaFoam and Techron mixed 50/50 and dosed at 1 ounce per gallon.
 
95 & 98 octane - - WOW, I couldn't find any auto currently being sold that requires even close to that level of Octane ...... Mike :ohyea:

That is because we are talking apples and oranges here. They say liars figure and figures lie. Doesn't necessarily apply here. But the point being. We are no taking about the same thing. So the numbers are deceiving.

Here is a statement I garnered from the web explaining what I mean. And, if it's on the web... well, we all know the rest.

Because it uses more real-world conditions, the MON rating is typically eight to ten points lower than the equivalent RON figure. In Europe, the octane rating on the pump is simply the RON figure. America, by contrast, uses the average of the RON and the MON figures, called the AKI
 
That is because we are talking apples and oranges here. They say liars figure and figures lie. Doesn't necessarily apply here. But the point being. We are no taking about the same thing. So the numbers are deceiving.

Here is a statement I garnered from the web explaining what I mean. And, if it's on the web... well, we all know the rest.

Because it uses more real-world conditions, the MON rating is typically eight to ten points lower than the equivalent RON figure. In Europe, the octane rating on the pump is simply the RON figure. America, by contrast, uses the average of the RON and the MON figures, called the AKI

Correct, will clarify if I post about fuel in the future to avoid confusion :)
 
I use Star Tron and have found it to be very effective. You can get it at most Walmart's.

Useless.
>95% Naphtha.
Less than .5% organics.
Naphtha is corrosive, and there is plenty in gasoline already.
Sorry to burst your bubble, but you are better off adding nothing.
 
95 & 98 octane - - WOW, I couldn't find any auto currently being sold that requires even close to that level of Octane ...... Mike :ohyea:

Mike, my dealer puts in 5 gallons of 99 octane race fuel with each new bike. Why? :dontknow: It what they do. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:
 
Correct, will clarify if I post about fuel in the future to avoid confusion :)

Those numbers would indicate race or aviation fuel in America. Just like Fahrenheit vs Celsius in temperature. Just a different scale being used to reference the same thing. But you certainly DO NOT want to confuse the two.
 
Mike, my dealer puts in 5 gallons of 99 octane race fuel with each new bike. Why? :dontknow: It what they do. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:

Tom, ...IF - your dealer is REALLY doing this ( and I don't know how you could prove it ) I would be quite concerned about ANYTHING they did to my Spyder...... ONLY a vehicle designed for HIGHER octane will actually benefit from it ..... this was learned in " combustion 101 " .....:roflblack: ..... my caps were used for emphasis only ..... Mike :ohyea:
 
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