-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
limp mode
- Thread starter richie
- Start date
Your screen can do several different things. It turns orange with limp mode in black letters. Sometimes it gives a problem symbol which is listed in your owners manual....which gives corrective actions... which usually is..."take to your dealer". Sometimes you get a spyder flashing in the odometer window...lots of different interesting things to see.
Scan your owners manual, it covers many of the misfuctions. lots of fun reading, along with some terror in your heart....worse yet, is when you get it and you are in the desert with no water....
:yikes:
:spyder2:
Scan your owners manual, it covers many of the misfuctions. lots of fun reading, along with some terror in your heart....worse yet, is when you get it and you are in the desert with no water....
:yikes:
:spyder2:
hawkiii
Member
Only seen LIMP MODE once. 2009 July, long line to get into Sequoia Nat'l Park. 114 degrees outside. Just as we were leaving the booth with our pass for the park, Spyder went into limp mode. It ain't pretty. Spit and sputtered to the side of the road under very little shade. Parked and sat for about 45 minutes. Turned Spyder on every 10 minutes or so to check temp. We ended up going back to the hotel and going to the Park early the next morning while it was still cool. Ended up having to change the spark plugs when we finally got home.
napper39
New member
now you know what it looks like ill tell you some ways to get there,eng too hot,foot rubing to close to the brake,it makes the brain think there is something wrong with the brake system and limp mode,loose batt wire they :yikes:v brate loose you need to check them at least every 500 miles.loose relays they virbrate loose check every 500 miles.loose fusess.all these will put you in limp mode.so if you keep a watch on all those you might not ever see limp mode.:thumbup:
flamingobabe
...in the pink (Girls On Spyders)
I went into limp mode while on a ride in West Virginia....the screen said ABS failure...Limp Mode...which means you can not ride over 35 to 40 or the bike will start shaken...spuddering...so only ride under 35.....when we got back to hotel (about 20 miles) a friend looked at the ABS wheel...about 6 pins were bent...looks like something metal hit the wheel.....then we notice a screw from under the seat is missing...guess that is what happened...for all places for that screww to fall...into the ABS wheel.....we took a chisel and a hammer and bent the pins back upright...kinda a scary...but it was already broke....the hammer and chisel worked.....I've put about 10,000 miles on the Spyder since it happened......while we are here...I've noticed that when traveling I have to check the oil about every 1000 miles...at about 3000 to 4000 miles I need to put about a 1/3 to 1/2 bottle of oil in the bike....what happens is if I get on an incline...say to park...the Transmission code comes on...then I need to put oil in the Spyder...I'm trying to be better and fill the oil before the code shows it's ulgy face......I travel with a quart of oil....
Riot
New member
I got to exp LIMP MODE for the very 1st time last night. I decided to finally get that damn DPS recall done against my better judgement of fixin somethin that aint broke..sure nuff that broke it. got the dreaded LIMP HOME MODE. VSS FAULT, CHECK DPS. 30 miles from home at night. fun stuff stopping every .4 to .6 of a mile to shut bike off Hopefully..not every time.. clear the codes, to go another half mile rinse and repeat and actually LIMPED it home. todays the 1st time the bikes ever seen a trailer. now I get to deal with BRP customer service...OH JOY! YAY ME! Im thinking this is gonna be one of those days.
richie
New member
Scotty I value your opinon,what happened is last week I had oil lite come on, after getting an oil chg 6/18/11 checked oil nothing showing on stick, so I added oil every thing ok. I had the bike 3 yrs 2008 first time I had to add oil. BTW I change oil once a yr. Today after getting gas the oil lite was on again, as I tried to accelerate spyder choaked down tryed to speedup again choaked down, no code's. When I got home keeping it under 40 shut it off, turned it on and got oil lite and check eng. lite. Wassssup!:helpsmilie:
can-am sam
New member
Limp mode
Two days ago when leaving on a trip after driving for 20 minutes my RT went into "Limp mode". I crept along at 15mph till I could exit the freeway. I remembered reading in the forum about the dreaded limp mode and turned off and on the ignition switch 3 times to clear the fault. It started up normally, but the oil light was on. Shut it down and checked the oil, it was full. Tried it again and all systems were a go. No other problems in driving 500 miles in 2 days. I must have been touching the brake pedal to cause the limp mode. I now keep my foot away from the brake pedal.
Two days ago when leaving on a trip after driving for 20 minutes my RT went into "Limp mode". I crept along at 15mph till I could exit the freeway. I remembered reading in the forum about the dreaded limp mode and turned off and on the ignition switch 3 times to clear the fault. It started up normally, but the oil light was on. Shut it down and checked the oil, it was full. Tried it again and all systems were a go. No other problems in driving 500 miles in 2 days. I must have been touching the brake pedal to cause the limp mode. I now keep my foot away from the brake pedal.
Was taken mine to the dealer Wednesday for the parking brake (wouldn't go in park, spring ok) about 20 miles from dealer went into limp mode showing engine and handle bar on screen. They thought they had fixed them but when they test drove the :spyder2: threw another code It is still in the shop. Rode 13,000 + mile with no problems. Sure hope they get her fixed soon I missed the old girl.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Sounds like you have a bad oil pressure sensor. This will trigger limp mode, as you have experienced. See your dealer ASAP.
sandrunr1
New member
I have had no problem with either of our :spyder2::spyder2:s. But I do find after a long ryde and getting off to rest a bit, I go into limp mode for a bit till the body stretches. Limp and hobble is just a way of life for us oldsters. As for the :spyder2::spyder2:s, their just not old enough yet.
richie
New member
:roflblack:me too!
Here you go on the BRP roller coaster. Anytime you take your spyder in for anything that the computer spits out with a fault code open your wallet a little for your $50 deductible under the best plan if you are lucky. But if the problem turns out to be lets say a tag light that is on but the computer senses a voltage drop, and codes it is burned out it will cost you $100 to $200 at the dealer. Yes the buds system is money pit for the dealer, and you can not do anything about it. 
Trade your spyder in for a tri glide.
Trade your spyder in for a tri glide.
MouthPiece
Banged Up Member
Here you go on the BRP roller coaster. Anytime you take your spyder in for anything that the computer spits out with a fault code open your wallet a little for your $50 deductible under the best plan if you are lucky. But if the problem turns out to be lets say a tag light that is on but the computer senses a voltage drop, and codes it is burned out it will cost you $100 to $200 at the dealer. Yes the buds system is money pit for the dealer, and you can not do anything about it.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm???
Ga Blue Knight
New member
Here you go on the BRP roller coaster. Anytime you take your spyder in for anything that the computer spits out with a fault code open your wallet a little for your $50 deductible under the best plan if you are lucky. But if the problem turns out to be lets say a tag light that is on but the computer senses a voltage drop, and codes it is burned out it will cost you $100 to $200 at the dealer. Yes the buds system is money pit for the dealer, and you can not do anything about it.
Let's see, ave Spyder price $17,000 for RS and $25,000 for RT. Ave price for TriGlide $35,000 to $45,000 difference is about $18,000 to $28,000 for RS and $10,000 to $25,000 for RT. BRP shop rate around $70 hr. HD shop rate close to $90 hr
So that difference should take care of lots of repairs service etc. If you have a warrantee with a $50 deductible you would be able to pay for the warrantee cost plus the deducts for several lifetimes!
Oh yeah you would have to creep around corners on your TriGlide and keep your speed down so not tomscare yourself. But wait you'd have a Harley! That's the point right?
No my point is BRP has a poor dealer network which they authorize to be the only ones to work on your spyder but BRP intern claims all dealers are independent which they have no control over. But you have no other place to have electronic dia work done even a warrantly issue resolved because of the the not so bud system.
Just be aware that BRP now claims the BEST warranty is independent of BRP, and dealers are sticking their customers with bills that should be under warranty because it is much easier to do so than fight with now independent Best BRP.
Just be aware that BRP now claims the BEST warranty is independent of BRP, and dealers are sticking their customers with bills that should be under warranty because it is much easier to do so than fight with now independent Best BRP.
Firefly
Active member
Here you go on the BRP roller coaster. Anytime you take your spyder in for anything that the computer spits out with a fault code open your wallet a little for your $50 deductible under the best plan if you are lucky. But if the problem turns out to be lets say a tag light that is on but the computer senses a voltage drop, and codes it is burned out it will cost you $100 to $200 at the dealer. Yes the buds system is money pit for the dealer, and you can not do anything about it.
This simply is NOT TRUE.
I've had my spyder hooked up to various dealers across the US and codes cleared - items fixed and have not been charged a DIME-- not even the deductible -- which my dealer said they will always wave anyways.
Rather than just spout vague anti-BRP and anti-BEST posts-- how about you tell us exactly what's going on -- or don't you want ideas or help?
We know you've been mad about not being able to get your own BUDS system - but you're basically proving just why the end user shouldn't have BUDS - they could mess something up and then cause warranty problems.
Many times the end user expect certain items to be covered under extended warranties that are actually wear items that they obviously won't cover (brakes, belt, clutch, shocks, etc....) - and I know for a fact that BRP and BEST have covered some things I wouldn't have thought they would have.
GloryRyders
MOgang Member
Cannot DISAGREE more with the your comments on the dealer network:lecturef_smilie:I am not saying that all of them are but many are outstanding in their service and commentment to their customers. I just had my new RT Limited in the shop today for a DPS / Limp Home message and within 30 minuets Cowtown had it checked out and fixed (something to do with four different codes not being in sync......but I am far from understanding any of it:roflblack
It took longer for Kevin, their tech, to test drive to insure that all was well then to actually figure out what the issue was. Oh, by the way, all at no cost!:2thumbs:Thanks again Cowtown!
Similar threads
