Limp mode while trying to use cruise - anyone else?

[KAMJAM]

A bit of history first. We have 2020 Rt's, I've installed the cat delete from RLS (stock muffler as the RLS muffler + CAT delete was too loud for me) and had the fine folks at Fuel Moto provide a modified map/tune for the new setup. Since the weather hasn't been the greatest, we've only been out a few times and I have not used the cruise as the trips have been short.
Yesterday was much warmer and drier, so we decided to take a longer trip and rode about 200 miles or so. I used my cruise a few times, but then it started giving me grief. It would turn on but not set, as I tried to turn it off and engage the nanny decided to punish me with limp mode! I turned onto the first side street, shut down, and restarted. Everything was fine and we finished our ride, no cruise for me as I did not want to revisit that situation. We rode today for approx the same distance without any issues, but I did not attempt to engage the cruise.
I was hesitant to venture too far away from home and attempt record the data while using the cruise again, maybe next weekend when we are close to home, getting stranded 50 miles from home in limp mode is not appealing!

Wondering if anybody else has had this issue?

Thanks,

Ken

 

[BertRemington]

We need more information. After each individual button push, what was displayed on the console? You said the CC would turn On but not accept Set. Then would not accept Off. Is this correct? Did the console match your command actions? What lights illuminated with Limp Mode?

Don't know about the 2020 but the 2014 CC switches are individual wires to the left-hand switch where they are converted into CANBUS messages. There's a possibility a right-hand switch closure enables a signal interference mechanism affecting the CANBUS ... which might also appear on the console.

Perhaps in your upgrades some wires were relocated or connectors weren't fully seated. It's most likely this is the cause of your problem.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Did you check to see what your brake light &/or the brake micro-switch was doing?? :dontknow: While it might not be related, if the brake light WASN'T WORKING properly &/or it was stuck on cos the brake micro-switch was indicating that your brakes WEREN'T RELEASING FULLY, then you would get pretty much what you've described - cruise will go on but not set; and if you continued riding the Nanny would eventually decide that if you still had the brakes jammed on then something's wrong & she'd dump you into Limp Home Mode; and shutting it down & re-starting is often a good way of re-setting that particular Limp Home condition, because the Nanny then waits for the Brake On Indication to remain set for whatever the necessary hard coded time period is before she re-imposes the Limp Home Mode...

So maybe you could look at checking how your Brake Lights are working; seeing if they go off immediately you take your foot off the pedal; & maybe even doing a micro-switch clean & then try to reset that switch, there's instructions on how to do all that somewhere here on the Forum, it shouldn't be too hard to find if you do a bit of searching. :thumbup:

Dunno if it'll help, or even if the brake on/off thing still applies to 2020+ Spiders, but I suspect it does; besides, it's not much effort to do all that & it just might resolve your problem.... might not too, but it can't hurt to check it out, can it?!

Or it could be something else entirely. Over to you... Good Luck! hyea:

 

[mandytuning]

Check the storef code with the dynojet pv3, if the code is about throttle not matching command or something like that, then its the tune, have to lower the throttle sensitivity.

 

[BertRemington]

KAMJAM -- this isn't good. You asked the community for help before asking the Fuel Moto/Mandy Tune folks about your symptoms? In the future, best to start at the beginning unlike this jump into the middle.

 

[Peteoz]

Ken, have you checked for any error codes that might be associated with your limp mode? I had a similar, but not exactly the same, issue with cruise, and it was due to a minutely loose pin in one of the throttle connector sockets. It was an intermittent issue as temperature influenced whether the pin would make contact or not.

Pete

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Yo Ken. Pretty much everything can be explained by having a sticky brake light switch as Peter described. Just so happens that a brake light switch recall was issued by BRP 5 days ago that covers your machine. You should get a letter.

https://can-am.brp.com/on-road/us/e...stay-illuminated-increased-risk-of-crash.html

That limp mode is all part of the vehicle safety features in case of brake failure, but could also be activated if you were inadvertently riding the brake pedal. See your manual. Never heard of not being able to turn OFF the CC. Maybe just a one off.

In the interim, do what Peter said. Sorry I’m late to the party.

 

[K80Shooter]

There is a recall on the brake light switch, it just came out this month I believe. Check with your dealer about it.

A new switch and another spring will be installed per the recall notice. You should be getting one in the mail soon.

Check this out. https://can-am.brp.com/on-road/us/e...stay-illuminated-increased-risk-of-crash.html

 

[KAMJAM]

KAMJAM -- this isn't good. You asked the community for help before asking the Fuel Moto/Mandy Tune folks about your symptoms? In the future, best to start at the beginning unlike this jump into the middle.

Well, I had just completed the ride and did not have the dynojet connected and wasn't going to have the opportunity to ride again till this weekend, was just asking if anybody had experienced this issue.

 

[KAMJAM]

Hey Pete, I have not checked the code log? I have to do a bit of research on how to do that as the dynojet was not connected at the time this happened. Thanks for the tip, I will check all connections as I have a pedal commander as well. Thanks again!
Ken

 

[KAMJAM]

Yo Ken. Pretty much everything can be explained by having a sticky brake light switch as Peter described. Just so happens that a brake light switch recall was issued by BRP 5 days ago that covers your machine. You should get a letter.

https://can-am.brp.com/on-road/us/e...stay-illuminated-increased-risk-of-crash.html

That limp mode is all part of the vehicle safety features in case of brake failure, but could also be activated if you were inadvertently riding the brake pedal. See your manual. Never heard of not being able to turn OFF the CC. Maybe just a one off.

In the interim, do what Peter said. Sorry I’m late to the party.

Thanks for the response, much appreciated. I may have explained it incorrectly, I was able to turn the cruise on, but it stopped engaging or activating. So I turned it off and tried several times to activate it, that's when limp mode kicked in, when I finally had a chance to pull over she was running pretty rough, miss firing and sounded like crap. I shut it down, waited a few minutes and restarted with no issues, with the cruise off as I has 60+ miles to get home.

I am going to check all connections, check the brake switch, plug in the dynojet to record the ride this weekend if the weather cooperates.

Ken

 

[KAMJAM]

There is a recall on the brake light switch, it just came out this month I believe. Check with your dealer about it.

A new switch and another spring will be installed per the recall notice. You should be getting one in the mail soon.

Check this out. https://can-am.brp.com/on-road/us/e...stay-illuminated-increased-risk-of-crash.html

That is great news, thanks for the heads up. The dealer we purchased them from was terrible, and as far as I can tell is no longer a dealer. We have used one not that far away, I will reach out to them tomorrow.

Thanks again,

Ken

 

[KAMJAM]

Thank you all for the suggestions and tips, I'll let you know what solution I come up with... hopefully an easy/painless fix!

Ken

 

[BertRemington]

KAMJAM -- apologies if I misunderstood your "fine folks at Fuel Moto ... new setup". Typical failure analysis begins with examining the possible effects of the last change made to the system, which in your case seemed to be the "new setup". In which case I assumed (my mistake) you had contacted the "fine folks at Fuel Moto" and they eliminated the "new setup" changes as a cause. I'm still confused if that occurred.

WRT the brake light switch being the cause, the symptoms you described (cruise control switch operations) don't point to that but best wishes for that being the solution.`

 

[Peteoz]

Hey Pete, I have not checked the code log? I have to do a bit of research on how to do that as the dynojet was not connected at the time this happened. Thanks for the tip, I will check all connections as I have a pedal commander as well. Thanks again!
Ken

Ken, press your handlebar “joystick” to get to your console display. (Do this after you get limp mode, and before you shut the RT down). Scroll down to Stats (I think), and error codes should be one of the options. There may be absolutely nothing there, but if there is it can indicate exactly where your issue lies.

Pete

 

[KAMJAM]

KAMJAM -- apologies if I misunderstood your "fine folks at Fuel Moto ... new setup". Typical failure analysis begins with examining the possible effects of the last change made to the system, which in your case seemed to be the "new setup". In which case I assumed (my mistake) you had contacted the "fine folks at Fuel Moto" and they eliminated the "new setup" changes as a cause. I'm still confused if that occurred.

WRT the brake light switch being the cause, the symptoms you described (cruise control switch operations) don't point to that but best wishes for that being the solution.`

No worries, I was being genuine when I stated that as they were very helpful when I was downloading/uploading and flashing the module. I am going to look into the issue with the brake switch and the potential faulty connection prior to our ride tomorrow, which will also be the perfect time to record data on the the dynojet.

I'll keep you all posted with the findings and solutions.

Thanks again,
Ken

 

[KAMJAM]

Ken, press your handlebar “joystick” to get to your console display. (Do this after you get limp mode, and before you shut the RT down). Scroll down to Stats (I think), and error codes should be one of the options. There may be absolutely nothing there, but if there is it can indicate exactly where your issue lies.

Pete

Thanks Pete, that really helps as I am gong to try to reproduce the same conditions tomorrow.

I will post my findings tomorrow, unless I am stranded in a far away land... JK.

Thanks again,
Ken

 

[KAMJAM]

Update. After multiple rides, with the dynojet recording I have not a single problem or thrown a code. I'm starting to think it may have been user error after taking a closer look at my foot position near the brake pedal.
I recently purchased a pair of insulated riding pants, they are pretty thick and have a large cuff. I think the cuff of the pants may have placed a bit of pressure on the brake pedal (extended width pedal) when I placed my feet on the highway pegs.

I haven't had a chance to contact the dealer yet about the brake switch recall, It's a bit of ordeal to potentially dedicate half a day off for both RT's, I'd rather just buy the switches and do it myself in the evening and ride all weekend.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Update. After multiple rides, with the dynojet recording I have not a single problem or thrown a code. I'm starting to think it may have been user error after taking a closer look at my foot position near the brake pedal.
I recently purchased a pair of insulated riding pants, they are pretty thick and have a large cuff. I think the cuff of the pants may have placed a bit of pressure on the brake pedal (extended width pedal) when I placed my feet on the highway pegs.

I haven't had a chance to contact the dealer yet about the brake switch recall, It's a bit of ordeal to potentially dedicate half a day off for both RT's, I'd rather just buy the switches and do it myself in the evening and ride all weekend.

The pants cuff or a foot/boot too close could certainly do it, there's lots of threads on just that back in the earlier threads! :thumbup:

I'm not sure you'll ever get the brake switch recall work signed off on your bike unless it's done by a dealer, and that might mean trouble for you down track if you ever have an incident where operating the brakes may be at issue, or if you ever try to sell. Certainly, here in Oz the ONLY way you can get any mandated recall work signed off as being done is to have the appropriate dealer do it!! Even if the offending bit has been removed and can no longer ever be an issue, the vehicle STILL hasta go to the dealer and so that they can register it properly.... :banghead:

 

[KAMJAM]

I was not aware of that, thanks for the heads up. I put it on the calendar to give them a call tomorrow. Even though we purchased our RT's the same day, Julie's had been there a bit longer than mine, it even came with a frunk liner installed! When we had the 3k service completed the dealer also replaced the brake lever mount on Julie's RT (if I remember correctly) due to a recall, mine did not require the replacement part.

Thanks again and good night.