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Lifting my RT

Did you by chance pump up the rear suspension? Sometimes that'll give ya just enough clearance. Otherwise drive it up on three pieces of 2x6, one for each tire of course. Then you'll be good to go. But, please put jack stands under it and let the weight down onto the stands to work on it. Also notice as you let it down that there is some side to side shift as the jack goes down...since the lift table picks up at somewhat of an angle. Keep a close eye on the rear especially since the lower shock mount isn't very wide. It's not worth the risk of having 1100 lbs on ya. :yikes:

No, I did not have the rear pumped up, I am going to check that and see, thanks.
 
For your consideration

The part the jack was touching were panels on the bottom and underneath the bike, not side panels. I may not have been real clear on that.

I want to lift the whole bike. I am thinking of getting BajaRon's front spring adjusters so I need to get the tension off of the wheels. My floor jacks won't get to the frame without hitting tupperware. I may be picking the wrong jacking point. I would like to be able to use my motorcycle jack instead. I will try the spacer suggestion and see how that works.

suggestions: # 1 Pull the front wheels up on 2x6 boards cut on a 45% angle on the end.
# 2 Use your service jack to lift up the front with a block of wood protecting the frame.
# 3 make two small wooden boxes out of 2x6 boards to support the weight of the wheels and suspension while the shocks are off.

It works for me. Hope this helps.
 
I added air to my rear air suspension using the schrader valve under the seat and the Lamonster approved digital cordless air pump set to 50lbs.
 
One question

Hi there,

Is it easy to use this lift? What model do you have?

Thanks for your response in advance.

:spyder2::spyder2::spyder2:
 
Hi there,

Is it easy to use this lift? What model do you have?

Thanks for your response in advance.

:spyder2::spyder2::spyder2:

Which Lift are you referring to? The OP's, the HF, or the Big Blue?
I have the Harbor Freight version,
attachment.php

used it many times for Oil Changes, Sway bar install, wheel and tire changes, frunk removal, and it's worked well. I do have jack stands under the front wheels and rear swing arm. Sometimes have a car ramp with blocks under the rear tire when I get it up really high.
attachment.php

Here's how I got the extra height to install my BajaRon Bar
attachment.php

Even without the Jackstands and Tire Ramp in at this point, the Spyder was very stable on the jack, though I wouldn't work on it
without at least three other fixed supports like the jack stands and ramp.
 
Different models, different set ups different jacks. I have the craftsman old version with the 2" removable extensions. I think they later eliminated them but made the lift taller. Same model from harbor freight did not have the extensions. Mine fit without the extensions but after relocating the front shock it fits with the extensions. In any case the 2x6's is an easy solution. Now to do the shock adjusters you can do it with a floor jack...
View attachment 156063

I took advantage of a coupon and bought the Harbor Freight knock-off of the Sears one. Works great, nice and lightweight too.
harbor freight jack.jpg
 
Which Lift are you referring to? The OP's, the HF, or the Big Blue?
I have the Harbor Freight version,
used it many times for Oil Changes, Sway bar install, wheel and tire changes, frunk removal, and it's worked well. I do have jack stands under the front wheels and rear swing arm. Sometimes have a car ramp with blocks under the rear tire when I get it up really high.

Here's how I got the extra height to install my BajaRon Bar
attachment.php

Even without the Jackstands and Tire Ramp in at this point, the Spyder was very stable on the jack, though I wouldn't work on it
without at least three other fixed supports like the jack stands and ramp.
Good way to go to get extra lift. Beats the way I did it, putting the jack on top of a pallet!

On 2 blocks.jpg
 
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George, just wondering are the rails on your Powerbuilt jack short enough to not support the Spyder RT's central and side angled tubes when lifting. or Why did you feel you needed to add the extra adapter to the lift when lifting the Spyder? The HF jack I got has 14 inch rails that easily support the Spyder RTL. Just wondering.

EDIT, Sorry I was looking at Post 4, now I relooked at post #3 and see how that helped with your normal type floor jack versus having to purchase a Motorcycle lift.
 
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Hitch Point

Everyone

I have a pair of car ramps will be using to get the front end up. I am just wondering if I could use the hitch to lift the rear end until i can put some jack stands , would i be able to support the rear of the bike using my jack stands on each side of the hitch. I hope I am not be too confusing for everyone here. Does the bike have to be level or as near to as possible to do the oil change etc. Thanks guys

Dave
 
Everyone

I have a pair of car ramps will be using to get the front end up. I am just wondering if I could use the hitch to lift the rear end until i can put some jack stands , would i be able to support the rear of the bike using my jack stands on each side of the hitch. I hope I am not be too confusing for everyone here. Does the bike have to be level or as near to as possible to do the oil change etc. Thanks guys

Dave
I use a Hi-Lift jack to raise the back end of my Spyder lifting by the hitch but then set the rear wheel down on blocks with at least some of the weight of the Spyder on it. If I'm changing the rear tire or aligning the belt then I use an ATV jack (like the ones others have shown and used) to lift it up with the front wheels on ramps or blocks. I usually set the ramps behind the front wheels and back the Spyder up on them so the length of the ramp doesn't interfere with things like changing oil. One problem with ramps is they tend to slide when you drive the Spyder up on them so you have to hold them in place some way.
 
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