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Lifting my RT

mark4Jesus

New member
I have a Craftsman motorcycle lift. I was going to try it our on my Spyder yesterday, but...It is just a little too tall when it is all the way down. I tried several different angles, but the tupperware on the bottom gets in the way. I looked at a couple of pictures on the forum on placement, but couldn't get it there. Do you have to remove the panels underneath to be able to use it? Or, am I missing something?
 
Get an extra 1 1/2 clearance by running the front wheels up on some short 2X6 boards

If your jack is a little too high, just cut some bevels on a 2 x 6 board and run the front wheels up on to get started.
 
I have a Craftsman motorcycle lift. I was going to try it our on my Spyder yesterday, but...It is just a little too tall when it is all the way down. I tried several different angles, but the tupperware on the bottom gets in the way. I looked at a couple of pictures on the forum on placement, but couldn't get it there. Do you have to remove the panels underneath to be able to use it? Or, am I missing something?
There's no body panels in the way if you're lifting it by the frame. Are you trying to get the whole bike off the ground or what?
 
There's no body panels in the way if you're lifting it by the frame. Are you trying to get the whole bike off the ground or what?

A couple of options; a) get some cheapo car ramps to get the front end up in the air first; this will provide enough clearance for your m/c lift (it's also more stable that way) or b) get an inexpensive floor jack with a low clearance to lift the frame.

Both are available real cheap from Harbor Freight.
 
There's no body panels in the way if you're lifting it by the frame. Are you trying to get the whole bike off the ground or what?

The part the jack was touching were panels on the bottom and underneath the bike, not side panels. I may not have been real clear on that.

I want to lift the whole bike. I am thinking of getting BajaRon's front spring adjusters so I need to get the tension off of the wheels. My floor jacks won't get to the frame without hitting tupperware. I may be picking the wrong jacking point. I would like to be able to use my motorcycle jack instead. I will try the spacer suggestion and see how that works.
 
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I want to lift the whole bike. I am thinking of getting BajaRon's front spring adjusters so I need to get the tension off of the wheels. My floor jacks won't get to the frame without hitting tupperware. I may be picking the wrong jacking point. I would like to be able to use my motorcycle jack instead. I will try the spacer suggestion and see how that works.

The only lifting point for the whole bike is the center frame of the bike about where the floorboards are on the RT. It will be fairly unstable though, since the frame itself is only about 4" wide.

Cognac on floor jack.jpg
 
The only lifting point for the whole bike is the center frame of the bike about where the floorboards are on the RT. It will be fairly unstable though, since the frame itself is only about 4" wide.

View attachment 156055

My motorcycle jack has two rails. I can see what you mean if using a regular floor jack. I saw a post about placement for the motorcycle jacks, which looked like it would be stable.
 
My motorcycle jack has two rails. I can see what you mean if using a regular floor jack. I saw a post about placement for the motorcycle jacks, which looked like it would be stable.

Yes, I have a motorcycle jack also, which has the two rails. That will give you more stability front and back but not side to side because of the narrow frame member.
 
" only once"

When I taught auto shop for a few years I explained to the students that a car only falls on you once. Yes there are videos of cars shifting and falling off lifts.

Thus---- I would NEVER work under my :spyder2: using a jack. Always sturdy stands in front and a large section of a glue lam beam on the back wheel.

Lew L
 
When I taught auto shop for a few years I explained to the students that a car only falls on you once. Yes there are videos of cars shifting and falling off lifts.

Thus---- I would NEVER work under my :spyder2: using a jack. Always sturdy stands in front and a large section of a glue lam beam on the back wheel.

Lew L

I don't get under riding mowers that are jacked up. Friend of mine had one fall on him. No serious injury, God watched over him on that one. He won't ever do it again!
 
Varies.....

Different models, different set ups different jacks. I have the craftsman old version with the 2" removable extensions. I think they later eliminated them but made the lift taller. Same model from harbor freight did not have the extensions. Mine fit without the extensions but after relocating the front shock it fits with the extensions. In any case the 2x6's is an easy solution. Now to do the shock adjusters you can do it with a floor jack...
20150630_123305.jpg
 
Mark4Jesus, I originally had this issue with my HF jack that was supposed to be lower even. Checked my rear shock airbag pressure, it was a 30lbs. Upped it to 50lbs and the Spyder lifted enough that the HF jack slide under the Spyder just fine. I lined the rearward rail of the jack up with the front floorboard attachment point, slid the jack under and made sure the rear rail was on the center frame square tube and the Spyder RT would lift and seem very stable. But as others have said, anytime I was gonna stick my head under, the jackstands went under the rear shock mount, and each lower A Arn, as close as I could get them to the front tires.
 
Mark4Jesus, I originally had this issue with my HF jack that was supposed to be lower even. Checked my rear shock airbag pressure, it was a 30lbs. Upped it to 50lbs and the Spyder lifted enough that the HF jack slide under the Spyder just fine. I lined the rearward rail of the jack up with the front floorboard attachment point, slid the jack under and made sure the rear rail was on the center frame square tube and the Spyder RT would lift and seem very stable. But as others have said, anytime I was gonna stick my head under, the jackstands went under the rear shock mount, and each lower A Arn, as close as I could get them to the front tires.

Didn't think about the rear shock! I believe I have it set on lower setting. I will adjust it to the highest setting and see what happens.
 
Did you by chance pump up the rear suspension? Sometimes that'll give ya just enough clearance. Otherwise drive it up on three pieces of 2x6, one for each tire of course. Then you'll be good to go. But, please put jack stands under it and let the weight down onto the stands to work on it. Also notice as you let it down that there is some side to side shift as the jack goes down...since the lift table picks up at somewhat of an angle. Keep a close eye on the rear especially since the lower shock mount isn't very wide. It's not worth the risk of having 1100 lbs on ya. :yikes:
 
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