docdoru
Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
The fan draw another .6 V....
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LED Digital Volt Meter for bikes
- Thread starter docdoru
- Start date
The fan draw another .6 V....
Doc,
Are you running HID on both?
Love2Ride
New member
:roflblack::roflblack:
docdoru
Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
WackyDan
New member
No kidding... I always assumed they sucked more juice..
docdoru
Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
After the initial 6-12 sec , HID consumes 35% less power and generates less heat during operation.
This is achieved in five distinct phases, as follows:
1) Turn-on. Power is applied to the ballast and the controller commands maximum voltage from the boost converter. Within 30ms, the igniter is ready to fire the tube.
2) Ignition. One or more high-voltage pulses, at 20Hz repetition, are applied to the lamp to ignite the arc. If the arc is not struck after 20 pulses, a serious fault is assumed and the sequence is terminated.
3) Take-over. To maintain the arc but also conserve the electrodes, the controller regulates lamp power to 75W maximum at up to 12A. This high current surge lasts only about 300ms. During ignition and take-over, the H-bridge applies DC to the lamp so as not to "disturb" the arc.
4) Warm-up. The H-bridge performs one switching cycle, first applying a negative half cycle of 10ms duration, then a positive half cycle. Power input to the lamp is regulated to 75W at 2.6A maximum.
5) Run-up. The H-bridge begins switching symmetrically at about 400Hz. Until the lamp voltage reaches 50V, the controller regulates lamp power to 75W at 2.6A maximum. This takes about 6-12 seconds. During this time, lamp intensity rises to near its full rated output.
6) Steady state. Lamp power is regulated to 35W ±2W. Continuing regulation ensures that the light output remains constant, regardless of variations in battery and lamp voltages.
WackyDan
New member
Stay away from that ebay guy. I ordered from him - three weeks ago. Now, I'm giving him some breathing room as the product is shipped from Singapore I believe. He only answered one email from me to let me know it shipped... Hasn't answered my other email in a week. By the end of this week I guess I will notify PayPal and start that process. EDIT -- GO FIGURE... THE DAY I POST THIS IS THE DAY IT CAME IN THE MAIL LOL....
Doc... How long did it take for him to ship yours?
I found them in bulk through other outlets, and only found one place in the UK selling them as singles here:
http://www.xyberautos.com/catalog/p...d=526&osCsid=08e2dba14fa470b46d425603bae1ae1d
Now... There are a lot of other voltmeters out there to choose from, but I haven't found any quite as small as this one.
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Hee's another source
These look good.
http://www.digitalmeter.com/cgi-bin/webshop.cgi?config=configspc.txt
These look good.
http://www.digitalmeter.com/cgi-bin/webshop.cgi?config=configspc.txt
I just ordered that one yesterday!
I've been wondering how the charging system is handling my heated gear.
I had one of those on my Burgman 650 and it was hooked up to the battery terminals, well it would run the battery down so I decided to change it to this one (http://www.shopwiki.com/_Kuryakyn+LED+Battery+Gauge?o=327345511&s=213751 ) & and now it is hooked up to the cigarette lighter this way when bike is off so is the meter.
WackyDan
New member
I'm installing mine with a switch. I'll be able to see the state of charge with the bike off, or running.
sabunim5
New member
Another One
ESI's parent organization sells one too. http://www.customdynamics.com/LED_battery_gauge.htm :2excited:
ESI's parent organization sells one too. http://www.customdynamics.com/LED_battery_gauge.htm :2excited:
The service manual states that the mag is supposed to be capable of producing 50amps...that's 600 watts. Some of my old muscle cars have the same output and run a lot more lights/accessories. Could there be a problem in the charging curve of the regulator/rectifier?? It seems like it. Since there are so much computerized componentry, if there is a low charging issue I could see where that might generate some of the issues with any system that uses a computer module. Have you run a volt meter between the - terminal and the reg/rect body? Suzi had that issue with the bikes that have a similar charging system. They would fry either the mag windings or the reg/rect., sometimes both. You can tell if the reg/rect, has a poor ground by testing voltage readings from the -terminal to the reg/rect. body. If you are getting any + voltage reading , I'd run a ground wire from the battery to one of the mounting bolts of the reg/rect.
It was the weirdest test I used to do on a regular basis but was a well known and easily resolved issue.
Unless there's something I'm missing, I can't see how 600watts would come up short. If there isn't a grounding problem , maybe a different reg/rect that peaks earlier in the rpm range. Have you checked the AC output from the mag itself?? All phases putting out the same current app.?
I might put the Fluke on it later and see what I get. Those low rpm voltages seem to be asking for the computers to act up.
It was the weirdest test I used to do on a regular basis but was a well known and easily resolved issue.
Unless there's something I'm missing, I can't see how 600watts would come up short. If there isn't a grounding problem , maybe a different reg/rect that peaks earlier in the rpm range. Have you checked the AC output from the mag itself?? All phases putting out the same current app.?
I might put the Fluke on it later and see what I get. Those low rpm voltages seem to be asking for the computers to act up.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
My shop manual says 40 amps. That is still nearly 600 watts at 14.8 charging volts, but nearer the rated 500 watts at the minimum 12.6 volts the system should always have.
I suspect the diffculties lie more in the normal rpm of the engine, which would allow the magneto to get nowhere near the full rated output in the lower half of the rpm scale. At 4000 rpm, the magneto charges 15-20 amps, according to the manual, at 13-14.8 volts. That is only about 200-300 watts! If the bike needs 150 or more, there is little left for accessories.
Magneto charging is common on ATVs, so that may be why BRP chose it instead of an alternator, or perhaps they feared the effects If the underbody heat on the alternator, also a consideration. Unfortunately, standard magnetos are relatively inefficient. There are ways to improve them...at a cost, but I don't know how far BRP went.
If a person rides at an average rpm range that allows only 200-300 watts output, there is a lot less juice left beyond the machine's needs to run heated gear, extra lights, and so forth. As with all bikes, there are limits to the available extra electric resources. With a magneto system, the limitations are greater unless you rev the engine higher. There may not be a regulator/rectifier problem at all, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check. I'd look at my riding habits first, though. BUDS can even download your rpm distribution if you need to know.
docdoru
Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
:agree:
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
He was last on 2/7/20 for a look see though.
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