Leaky brake master cylinder - any 'easy fixes' or ideas?

[McRuss]

Whilst traveling back from AK, I suddenly got a brake failure warning "low fluid level." Sure enough, the rearmost reservoir was down to almost empty (no air in the lines though!) I kept it up by adding a small amount every other day until I got home. Checking underneath I find that the boot where the actuator rod enters the master cylinder is leaking. OK, so not the boot but the seal that is evidently under the boot. Anyone experience this and if so, is it an 'easy' fix or a trip to the Spyder doctor? Now that the F3 is sitting in my garage, it doesn't seem to be leaking. I suspect that using the brakes aggravates the situation.

Note updated signature: I'm now showing states/provinces visited by Spyder and not two wheels.

 

[McRuss]

Leak brake master cylinder

This should have been under technical support, my bad.

Whilst traveling back from AK, I suddenly got a brake failure warning "low fluid level." Sure enough, the rearmost reservoir was down to almost empty (no air in the lines though!) I kept it up by adding a small amount every other day until I got home. Checking underneath I find that the boot where the actuator rod enters the master cylinder is leaking. OK, so not the boot but the seal that is evidently under the boot. Anyone experience this and if so, is it an 'easy' fix or a trip to the Spyder doctor? Now that the F3 is sitting in my garage, it doesn't seem to be leaking. I suspect that using the brakes aggravates the situation.

Note updated signature: I'm now showing states/provinces visited by Spyder and not two wheels.

 

[McRuss]

OK, so it looks like the solution is replacement of the master cylinder (unless someone on here knows different) as the parts break-down does not show a seal.

Next question is how to remove the right side passenger footrest bracket? I could fumble finger it I suppose but if someone has done it before me, I'd benefit from their knowledge!

edit: I searched but all I find is how to remove the foot pegs (or floorboards?) and not the bracket that supports it. I could probably get the master cylinder off without removing it but it would be a chore!

 

[Peter Aawen]

.....

edit: I searched but all I find is how to remove the foot pegs (or floorboards?) and not the bracket that supports it. I could probably get the master cylinder off without removing it but it would be a chore!

I'm not sure that removing the master cylinder WITHOUT removing the footrest bracket isn't the lesser chore! :dontknow: I haven't done a 2020+ myself, so can't say fer'sure, but IIRC there's been at least some posts here on the Forum about how it was easier to remove just the master cylinder! :lecturef_smilie:

Still, hopefully someone who actually knows about the 2020+ versions will weigh in?!? :dontknow:

Good Luck! :cheers:

 

[McRuss]

You may be right, it looks like a major project. The two bolts holding the master cylinder are visible but not easily reached. But unless they are lock-tighted (!) I think they can be undone. It would be nice to have the F3 on a lift but ramps will have to do.

 

[BertRemington]

The bolts will have Yellow "loctite" because they are a safety item.

 

[cravenfun]

I would bench bleed the new M/C and cap off disconnected line to avoid getting air into the system as much as possible. I have automotive cap off tools to ''seal'' off the hose ends for cars/trucks.
Same rules apply as a car with ABS. We do not want air to get into the ABS pump. I'm not sure on the Spyders but in cars one will need a scan tool to bleed the ABS pump if air gets into it. Others with more knowledge will chime in.

 

[larryd]

I would bench bleed the new M/C and cap off disconnected line to avoid getting air into the system as much as possible. I have automotive cap off tools to ''seal'' off the hose ends for cars/trucks.
Same rules apply as a car with ABS. We do not want air to get into the ABS pump. I'm not sure on the Spyders but in cars one will need a scan tool to bleed the ABS pump if air gets into it. Others with more knowledge will chime in.

cravenfun...QUESTION...What is the brand name of the "cap off tool kit" that you have??? And does it work on banjo style fittings??? THANK YOU, larryd

 

[cravenfun]

cravenfun...QUESTION...What is the brand name of the "cap off tool kit" that you have??? And does it work on banjo style fittings??? THANK YOU, larryd

I got some off Amazon a couple years ago. They are like spring close pins with rubber stoppers on the ends. Different configuration for hoses and banjo fittings.
They are called brake line stoppers.

 

[McRuss]

Well the bolts are loose, unit is still in place waiting for the new maser cylinder first. But a question (maybe a little late but....): where do folks order OEM parts for their F3's? Direct from CanAm?

I looked all over and finally found can-amparts.com and can-ampartshouse.com, same price, both claim to be "Official". Ordered the part from can-amparts.com OK. Then they billed my card as 'powersportspartsbarn'. Three weeks later and three phone calls to canam-parts and the parts shipped....from Yamahapart.com! Waiting anxiously to see what I get!

 

[pegasus1300]

Many of us used to buy our parts from cheapcycleparts.com but they went out of business. The last part I ordered was from partzilla.com but they are slow and like you it came from someone else.

 

[McRuss]

Received the 'dual master cylinder', looks good. Waiting to get some 'brake line clamps' from Amazingzon, then ready to start the cylinderectomy. One question though for those who have done some work on brakes:
the service manual says to remove the brake fluid reservoir, just "lift up." It does not seem to want to come loose (I want some slack in the lines to facilitate removing them from the master cylinder.) Using a mirror and light, I can see the 'clip' but not how it releases. Any help?

 

[Isopedella]

I saw this post a month back. Couldn't really come up with anything to fit with the any 'easy fixes' or ideas? Pleased you have the part and getting it sorted. Subscribed and learning. Any photos to put up of the job at all?

 

[Mikey]

I've got to ask, what kind of warranty is on a 2020? Could that part, maybe have been covered?

 

[McRuss]

I saw this post a month back. Couldn't really come up with anything to fit with the any 'easy fixes' or ideas? Pleased you have the part and getting it sorted. Subscribed and learning. Any photos to put up of the job at all?

I plan on taking some photos when I get started (so far have just figured out how to get to the rear bolt and loosen it!) I ordered a kit from Amazon to plug off the lines as I remove the cylinder, should have it next week. This may not be as difficult a job as I had anticipated but we will see. Stay tuned!

Oh, Warranty. I think it was 24 months but I honestly can't find a date on the Warranty Registration. Another issue with warranty service is the lack of a dealer within 120 miles. With gas prices like they were, and down time, it was easier for me to do the work. The cost is going to be about $350 when all is done.

 

[McRuss]

Preliminary photos. The body panel in front of the right pannier must come off; two screws, one 'push rivet' and a tab. Seat has to come off to get this panel off.
The bolt at the rear of the master cylinder is a 13mm bugger. I found a 1/2" SAE deep socket that gave just the right extension; other sockets and extension/socket combos were either too short or too long.
The brake rod has come partially out of the 'socket' in the master cylinder in this photo (and it allowed the foot brake to move just enough to activate the brake light for 12 hours.....caught it early the next morning, don't know how the battery is....)

 

[Isopedella]

Good work. Wouldn't really hurt to top up that battery if you have a charger I guess.
Ya know. I thought my Wing had some tight spaces but these Spyders seem to take it to a new level.
I'm in heaven with my 865 Triumph Twin and the Dr 650.

What did they sting ya for the brake cylinder?

 

[McRuss]

Back again with the final installment. Yes, the battery was dead and I can't find my charger so I jumped it and drove it around. Anyway, back to the master cylinder. The part was $306.00 plus a couple clamps and some fluid. To get it the old one out, I disconnected the hoses from the reservoir, or one of them anyway, and the brake lines. It was then just fiddly fussing to get the unit out. Refitting the new one was pretty straight forward. Turns out the most difficult thing was getting the 'easy' mounting bolt back in! It just would not 'take' in the threads. I finally loosened the 'hidden' bolt, put a drift through the offending hole and tightened the hidden bolt. It finally took, over an hour fighting with it! Filled the reservoir and let it leak out of the master at the brake line attachment points to fill the cylinder. Tightened things up, bled the brakes (left front first). All is well now! A couple final photos:

 

[McRuss]

PS, I bought a cheap kit from Amazon the clamp off the hoses but ended up only using two 'plugs' for the brake lines and a clamp for one of the lines from the reservoir. But like a number of my 'tools', I might use it again sometime!

Oh, one more thing: the shop manual says to adjust the brake 'rod' after replacing the master cylinder. I didn't loosen the adjustment and it went back into the cylinder just like it came out so, no I didn't adjust it. CanAm has a special tool for that adjustment, another reason not to mess with it!