Lamonster RIP Boards ...

[Bagger]

Got my RIP boards last week. Opened them today, but no instructions.

Went to Lamont's site and he has a vid, but is not thorough enough for a non-wrench such as myself.

Soooo .... if anyone's installed these guys ... see if you can help me out. Lamont's place isn't open until Monday, and I'm chomping at the bit to get these puppies installed this weekend.

I know about the heat to the oem peg bolts. Got that done and bolts out.

Now, there is a brass oem bushing with "ears" held by rubber grommets. How do I get this brass deal out without screwing up the rubber deals?

Anything else you can add that will make this easier for me would be appreciated as well.

TIA

 

[Peteoz]

Unfortunately, removing the brass bushings is the one step I didn't have to do as I had to buy the peg brackets complete with the rubber bushings as I already had BRP boards.

However, Lamont does say in his video that - "you just push that brass bushing out". That indicates to me that there is nothing tricky about it and you just use a hex driver or something else about the same size as the brass bushing to push it through.

The install is pretty straight forward, but just remember that when you are replacing the frame bolts that the frame will drop just a teeny weeny ( technical term) bit. If you don't lift the frame up a quarter inch or so, you'll sit there wondering if you have the right bolts for 5 minutes. Don't asked me how I know. pps:

The video covers everything else......and give me a video over written installation instructions any day

If you get stuck and don't mind calling Australia, you can reach me on 612 6556 0113..... although I'm sure you won't have any other issues.

Pete

 

[Bagger]

Unfortunately, removing the brass bushings is the one step I didn't have to do as I had to buy the peg brackets complete with the rubber bushings as I already had BRP boards.

However, Lamont does say in his video that - "you just push that brass bushing out". That indicates to me that there is nothing tricky about it and you just use a hex driver or something else about the same size as the brass bushing to push it through.

The install is pretty straight forward, but just remember that when you are replacing the frame bolts that the frame will drop just a teeny weeny ( technical term) bit. If you don't lift the frame up a quarter inch or so, you'll sit there wondering if you have the right bolts for 5 minutes. Don't asked me how I know. pps:

The video covers everything else......and give me a video over written installation instructions any day

If you get stuck and don't mind calling Australia, you can reach me on 612 6556 0113..... although I'm sure you won't have any other issues.

Pete

Thank, Pete ... but, unfortunately, the "ears" on the brass bushing are on both ends. I tried to push it out with an allen wrench. No dice. Tried to use a screw driver to remove the rubber grommet, too. Did not happen.

I don't want to screw up the rubber isolation grommets ... and, I'm sure one can't get one from the dealer for less than $15 for 4.

Yes, I agree that vids are much better than printed instructions (have you looked at the owner's manual? ... what the hell kind of photos are these?) But, Lamont does not go into removal of the bushing ... he already has the board mounted. Not good. Step by step on a vid is what is needed. Trust me ... it doesn't just "push out".

Less about what is included in the 4 possible positions and covers ... and more about the installation is what is needed. Or, include the instructions. Duh.

Also, nothing said about the frame sagging either. Do I have to jack up the frame in the areal of the rear board mount to install the hanger?

??

 

[Peteoz]

Thank, Pete ... but, unfortunately, the "ears" on the brass bushing are on both ends. I tried to push it out with an allen wrench. No dice. Tried to use a screw driver to remove the rubber grommet, too. Did not happen.

I don't want to screw up the rubber isolation grommets ... and, I'm sure one can't get one from the dealer for less than $15 for 4.

Yes, I agree that vids are much better than printed instructions (have you looked at the owner's manual? ... what the hell kind of photos are these?) But, Lamont does not go into removal of the bushing ... he already has the board mounted. Not good. Step by step on a vid is what is needed. Trust me ... it doesn't just "push out".

Less about what is included in the 4 possible positions and covers ... and more about the installation is what is needed. Or, include the instructions. Duh.

Also, nothing said about the frame sagging either. Do I have to jack up the frame in the areal of the rear board mount to install the hanger?

??

NO NO NO to jacking.....it wasn't supposed to sound that serious. you just lift it up by hand a quarter inch so the bolt holes line up ......there in NO weight on that bar.....sorry....

 

[Peteoz]

Just in case..... is this the video you are watching ?

Pete

 

[Peteoz]

Is that the brass bushing you can see on the left of Lamonts video at 1:40 to 1:45?

 

[Peteoz]

Ar 5:02 in the the video, Lamont says "you push that brass bushing out" and makes a finger gesture of pushing from the rear to the front....not sure how you do that if it has a lip on it, though.

Have you tried a PM to Lamont with "HELP" on it? He usually answers unless he's on the road.

Pete

 

[Bagger]

Ar 5:02 in the the video, Lamont says "you push that brass bushing out" and makes a finger gesture of pushing from the rear to the front....not sure how you do that if it has a lip on it, though.

Have you tried a PM to Lamont with "HELP" on it? He usually answers unless he's on the road.

Pete

Yeah, I've watched this vid a dozen times ... before and after purchase ... and, twice today.

The brass bushing has 2 "ears" extending beyond the rubber deals. One can't just push with your finger to get them to move distally or anteriorly. It's in there very tight.

Perhaps the rubbers are tougher than I think and you can take a punch and pound it out. If there is room. ??

Other than that, these are pretty much plug and play ... sorta.

I do have a message into the website ... email. They don't answer the phones on weekends. Of course, that is expected. I may have to wait until Monday to get an answer.

Enclosed illustrations and instructions would help.

Thanx, mate !

 

[Stangman35]

Since you have the bolts out and the pegs off, try running the bolt into the bushing a little ways and see if it will pull or pry out.

 

[Bagger]

Since you have the bolts out and the pegs off, try running the bolt into the bushing a little ways and see if it will pull or pry out.

If it rains today, I may attempt this project again. Maybe use a dowel to push the brass bushing back out. Seems pretty well seated in there.

Otherwise, I'll get hold of Jacob or Lamont on Monday.

Surprised no one here has installed these guys themselves.

 

[Stangman35]

I just tried it, it pulls out pretty easy. Ran the bolt in a few threads and used a pry bar to ease it out. Came out real easy.

 

[Stangman35]

I just tried it, it pulls out pretty easy. Ran the bolt in a few threads and used a pry bar to ease it out. Came out real easy.

Pic

 

[palover]

Got my RIP boards last week. Opened them today, but no instructions.

Went to Lamont's site and he has a vid, but is not thorough enough for a non-wrench such as myself.

Soooo .... if anyone's installed these guys ... see if you can help me out. Lamont's place isn't open until Monday, and I'm chomping at the bit to get these puppies installed this weekend.

I know about the heat to the oem peg bolts. Got that done and bolts out.

Now, there is a brass oem bushing with "ears" held by rubber grommets. How do I get this brass deal out without screwing up the rubber deals?

Anything else you can add that will make this easier for me would be appreciated as well.

TIA

When I installed the RIP boards, the bushing just slid out. You may end up pushing out the rubber bushing along with the metal sleve, just push the rubber bushing back in. You actually did the hard part, using heat to remove the screws. I had to replace my #5 position with a #4 to properly position the boards. Good luck
Ed

 

[Bagger]

I just tried it, it pulls out pretty easy. Ran the bolt in a few threads and used a pry bar to ease it out. Came out real easy.

That's what I'm looking for !

I'll give that a try.

BTW, I got hold of it pretty well and pushed ... nada.

I'll give your method a try and respond back.

Thanx, man !

 

[Bagger]

Now What ... ??

Well, got the right side of the bike hooked up. A bit of trial and error, but went fine.

But ......... on the left side, heated the front bolt on the peg and it came off (just as the other side) without much pressure. Then heated the rear bolt .... started coming out then nada. The SOB is now stripped. Heated it several more times. It ain't gonna come out. Worked on it for 15 minutes. It's just turning. Put in the front bolt and tried to see if that would help, but obviously they turn in opposite directions so the front just spins out.

Nothings easy. :banghead:

Now what ??

 

[Bagger]

I just spoke to someone here on the phone that had the same/same problem with a bolt being stripped.

He said he had to remove the entire foot peg assembly from the bike and cut thru the peg then the bushing/bolt came out. Of course, he now no longer has a foot peg for the right side. Mine's the left, so we have a pair. :sour:

So ... I'm not the only one who had this problem.

I'll wait to see if there are others offer for a solution before I undertake (??) this tomorrow.

 

[Bagger]

So ... removed the entire left side foot peg assembly. Put it in a vice and cut thru the "ear piece" of the peg housing near the bolt. Popped the piece off and pushed out the stripped bushing with the SS bolt.

I've reinstalled the peg mount and attached the RIP board. What a PITA ! But, from what I've received in PMs and speaking with Jacob at Lamonster's Garage ... this is not an uncommon occurrence.

 

[Peteoz]

Good news

Great to hear you finally got them on, Bagger......I hope, after all that effort, you find they work as well for you as they do for me.

 

[Bagger]

Great to hear you finally got them on, Bagger......I hope, after all that effort, you find they work as well for you as they do for me.

Thanx, Pete ... yeah, nothings easy for me and my Harbor Freight tools. But, I got it done. Looks great, feels great, too.

Also, installed the rear grab bar bungee buttons. That went without a hitch.

So ... I've got about 250 miles on this Hot Rod and installed the F4 windscreen, the grip puppies, Lamont's RIP boards, Lamont's bungee buttons, and Ulitmate driver backrest. Pretty good pace, I'd say.

I'll stop for a bit, but hope to install some LED fender rear turn signals, and some additional frontal lighting, too. That maybe beyond my capabilities, tho.

Now, I have to find out if the dealer installed the charging pig tail to the battery. I guess I have to find out where the battery is located 1st, eh.