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Lamonster Oil Change the easy way

Went to the dealer to get some BRP oil, as no one else had the correct 5w-40 our machines call for, and a quart cost me $12.99. Now, I figuer it cost about what...$70 bucks to have the dealer do the oil change? , and it would cost me $64.95 (takes 5 quarts to fill the spyder) plus whatever those washers etc call for plus my labor, the mess (I'm sure I would make a mess out of it), so to me, it woud make sense to just have the dealer do it.
 
Went to the dealer to get some BRP oil, as no one else had the correct 5w-40 our machines call for, and a quart cost me $12.99. Now, I figuer it cost about what...$70 bucks to have the dealer do the oil change? , and it would cost me $64.95 (takes 5 quarts to fill the spyder) plus whatever those washers etc call for plus my labor, the mess (I'm sure I would make a mess out of it), so to me, it woud make sense to just have the dealer do it.

4 quarts. Put 5 in and :yikes:
 
4 quarts. Put 5 in and :yikes:
Actually, the SM5 takes 4.1 qts, and the SE5 takes 4.4 qts, so you will need a little more than four quarts for either, but not a full five (unless you like oil in the airbox).
-Scotty
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Actually, the SM5 takes 4.1 qts, and the SE5 takes 4.4 qts, so you will need a little more than four quarts for either, but not a full five (unless you like oil in the airbox).
-Scotty
velo.gif

I think Blinc has SM5, so 4 would be advisable. Owner's Guide says add 3.9 liters (4 qts), but actual conversion from liters to qts is 4.1. Dealer only charges for 4 quarts, so they either plan on not a full drain of system or leave it a little low to prevent air box blow issues.
 
4 quarts. Put 5 in and :yikes:

Lamont had advised me to just put 4 qts in our SE5. After pouring 4 qts, I thought....OK, I'll put the exact amount called for. Yep. I overfilled it by a finger and a half. Had to suck out the extra. Lamont, next time = 4 qts. :bowdown:
So far, using the Royal Purple oil in our Spyder, the oil level has not changed in 2000 miles.
 
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Of course, the same dealership that told me 5 quarts is also the same dealership that says nothing is wrong with my spyder (surging, sputtering). I too will stick with the 4 quarts, thanks!
 
I changed mine myself and used 4 liter bottles,which is about 4.25 quarts and it worked out perfect.:2thumbs:
 
Went to the dealer to get some BRP oil, as no one else had the correct 5w-40 our machines call for, and a quart cost me $12.99. Now, I figuer it cost about what...$70 bucks to have the dealer do the oil change? , and it would cost me $64.95 (takes 5 quarts to fill the spyder) plus whatever those washers etc call for plus my labor, the mess (I'm sure I would make a mess out of it), so to me, it woud make sense to just have the dealer do it.
$ 70.00 for the dealer to to the oil change?
Mine wants 240.00, 85.00/ hr plus parts.
Cost me 76.00 to do it myself
 
You could always just drill holes in them to allow for some added circulation.
Why not make some custom aluminum grid that allows circulation and still protects the underbody?
NMN or Lamonster, have any interest in producing and selling?
 
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Why not make some custom aluminum grid that allows circulation and still protects the underbody?
NMN or Lamonster, have any interest in producing and selling?

Protects it from what?
The way I look at it is nothing I own or have ever owned has had any sort of splash pan on it like the Spyder. Not my cars, trucks, atv's, bikes, or tractors. I see no reason to have this other than to keep the heat in. The protection value is just about zero IMHO. :dontknow:
 
Protects it from what?
The way I look at it is nothing I own or have ever owned has had any sort of splash pan on it like the Spyder. Not my cars, trucks, atv's, bikes, or tractors. I see no reason to have this other than to keep the heat in. The protection value is just about zero IMHO. :dontknow:
MY 02 VW Eurovan has a huge one. So big, some oil change places do not want to touch it. I could run over a boulder and I think I would be good.
 
MY 02 VW Eurovan has a huge one. So big, some oil change places do not want to touch it. I could run over a boulder and I think I would be good.

GL1800 Goldwing doesn't have any but there are aftermarket companies that do make them for the Wing. I'm not saying they don't have a purpose I just don't see a great need for them on the steet.

You may someday in the life of your Spyder have something that may or may not fly up in to that area and do some damage to your motor if you don't run these splash pans.

For sure you are going to trap extra heat in the motor area everytime you ride the Spyder with them on. To me I'll take the my chances and op for less heat 100% of the time with them off. I was just passing on information of my results and you can make the judgment call from there. :doorag:
 
SE splash pans?


I was getting ready to install the NMN hiway brackets and thought I would take off the splash pans. I compared the picture from Lamonster and the bottom of mine and they just don't look the same. Am I looking at the picture the wrong way or what:dontknow: Looks to me there are a couple of different sections on each side:dontknow:
Are the pans different on the SE?
 
I was getting ready to install the NMN hiway brackets and thought I would take off the splash pans. I compared the picture from Lamonster and the bottom of mine and they just don't look the same. Am I looking at the picture the wrong way or what:dontknow: Looks to me there are a couple of different sections on each side:dontknow:
Are the pans different on the SE?
My left side looked different from his, right side was the same.
 
The pans on my SM #3003 looked identical to Lamonster's photos. When I first started looking I was looking too far forward and didn't see them until I looked at the furthest aft pans behind the engine.
 
easy oil change

Last summer I took off the splash pans on the bottom of the Spyder to get rid of some of the heat. I've always changed the oil the same way but now that I have the Corbin bags on it's a bit of a pain to get the bottom plastic off. :sour:

So I decided to see if I could change the oil just by removing the one side cover. Sure enough I could get to the oil filter just fine and I was able to change my oil without messing with any other panels. Took maybe an hour.:yes:

Here's the pics.

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I know this is a older post, but I am thinking about removing the splash pans. I am not concerned about the road hazard issue but it appears that the splash panels provide some structural integrity to the bottom outside panel. Has anyone that has taken these splash pans off noticed a weakening of the outside bottom panel. :dontknow:
 
THANKS LAMONSTER!

I saved 60 bucks

Oil Change was easy easy easy ..... a little messy but i know for the next time

THANKS AGAIN BROTHER

OHHHHHH And i did the KEEEEWWWWWWLMETAL Highway pegs at the same time


YOU DA MAN!
 
I know this is a older post, but I am thinking about removing the splash pans. I am not concerned about the road hazard issue but it appears that the splash panels provide some structural integrity to the bottom outside panel. Has anyone that has taken these splash pans off noticed a weakening of the outside bottom panel. :dontknow:

I thought I noticed that too but when I checked mine without splash pans vs. dltang's with splash pans, it wasn't much different. The hook mount and tab of the lower engine cowls provide a lot of support to the bottom panels. To be sure, I just went out and kinda pushed around on those lower panels again on both mine and dltang's Spyder and they seem to have the same rigidity with or without the splash pans.
 
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