• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Knocking em’ down in Reddick

shakin_jake

Member
51518911733_75336ea06f_h.jpg


Attempting a cat delete install. Thought a few of you might want to tag along, see what’s involved

Currently setting this job up in my horse barn. Ran my RT’s front wheels up on a pair of car/light truck ramps

Using some empty horse feed bags to lie on instead of being directly on the concrete floor

51523720509_0949d52e8d_h.jpg


Using a floor jack under the rear shock to lift up the rear

51518924223_48b368c98f_h.jpg
[/url]

This is the catholic converter, AKA the primary pipe & the piece that is being removed

For those wondering what this hunk of material’s primary mission is, there’s ceramic material inside that when heated, will burn unburnt Fluor- carbons (fuel that got by the combustion process) before making its way to the exhaust can & ultimtely the ambient. I have one of these on my wood burning stove in our living room and it provides a lot of heat to the room, but installed on the Spyder, creates a lot of unwanted heat where you sit. I’m merely temporarily removing this mandated pipe for testing purposes only=:-)

51522245907_4699c75e9d_h.jpg


The cat delete pipe, along w/a spring puller

51519604960_d5fd522f9d_h.jpg
[/url]

The springs (3) that connect the front of the catalytic converter to the head pipe, which the spring puller is used to remove. I need to mention. These springs create an enormous amount of tension. Unless you have arms like Popeye’s, these springs ain’t goin’ nowhere w/o a little hep’. I asked the manufacturer what he suggested to use for a come along to assist the spring puller. His reply? “Use one of those strap type oil filter wrenches”. He went on to say to hook the strap (IIRC) onto the rear brake caliper thingamajig. It was early in the morning when he called me back on the telephone & i was half asleep

51522201392_34a1d264bc_h.jpg


Here’s the strap wrench i had in my toolbox to work with, & it was obvious to me the strap isn’t long enough to hook around them brake caliper brake stay or caliper arm, so here’s what i did-

51522169647_33e4a9b58d_h.jpg


I hooked the strap around the clamp that holds the rear of the primary pipe, to where it connects to the exhaust can’s forward pipe

51523005211_6c39093b05_h.jpg


Guess what? It worked. Iggy Pop sang about knocking em’ down in the city. Well, Jake knocked one of them down in Reddick
 
Thanks for the update.

Nice pictures. :firstplace:

And...you have the cleanest barn I have ever seen. :firstplace: :firstplace:
 
Good work there Jake. I was able to pry the springs off and on with a screwdriver after trying to pull with a variety of gadgets.
That muffler to cat clamp gave up the ghost and I came up with this solution. Let's see that joint try to loosen now.

DSCN3010.jpg
 
Thanks for the update.

Nice pictures. :firstplace:

And...you have the cleanest barn I have ever seen. :firstplace: :firstplace:



~~~took the pics with my iPhone 11. The camera is a lot better than the iPhone 8Pro i last used. The stalls are clean because i just mucked them & put down fresh shavings. You should see them after a horse spends a day in there=:-)



Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
 
Good work there Jake. I was able to pry the springs off and on with a screwdriver after trying to pull with a variety of gadgets.
That muffler to cat clamp gave up the ghost and I came up with this solution. Let's see that joint try to loosen now.

View attachment 192669




~~~~that’s an interesting solution, care to explain how you came by the parts used? I’m not familiar with any of it. Looks very solid Ric.

Thanking you in advance!

BTW, I’ll have to give your screwdriver tip a go, sounds easier than what I did with the strap wrench, but I have to ask, how about the spring above, was that an issue for you using a screwdriver, or no?

Admittedly, i only removed one spring, then put it back on right away as i had 4 tons of hay being delivered the following day and had to move my Spyder so it didn’t get in the way. Something else too-

51520904675_536e0d0a50_h.jpg


As you can see, i bunged my right ring finger up recently & I dont have the full use of that hand. Makes everyday tasks like R&Ring part of your STeed’s exhaust system a bit of a challenge. I just might wait until this hand is completely healed before completing this task, but knowing myself as i do, I’m a bit impatient and once I start something, I like to finish it



Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood
 
~~~~that’s an interesting solution, care to explain how you came by the parts used? I’m not familiar with any of it. Looks very solid Ric.

Thanking you in advance!

BTW, I’ll have to give your screwdriver tip a go, sounds easier than what I did with the strap wrench, but I have to ask, how about the spring above, was that an issue for you using a screwdriver, or no?

Admittedly, i only removed one spring, then put it back on right away as i had 4 tons of hay being delivered the following day and had to move my Spyder so it didn’t get in the way. Something else too-

51520904675_536e0d0a50_h.jpg


As you can see, i bunged my right ring finger up recently & I dont have the full use of that hand. Makes everyday tasks like R&Ring part of your STeed’s exhaust system a bit of a challenge. I just might wait until this hand is completely healed before completing this task, but knowing myself as i do, I’m a bit impatient and once I start something, I like to finish it



Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood

If you want easier, disconnect the exhaust forward of the springs. You can then swivel the pipe and easily install all springs. Once the springs are installed, reconnect the forward exhaust joint.
I did ours that way years ago. No fighting hooks, screwdrivers or other stuff trying to get the springs on.
 
To heck with the Spyder operation!
I want to see the horses that reside in that fabulous barn!



~~~do horses that once resided in that barn count?
8467875574_2185fac17d_h.jpg


This was Sam (RIP) he was my wife’s horse. That said, I took care of him, like I do all of the horses we have now. We found Sam here in Fla. He was owned by a 6’4” Indian, a Fla. native that worked in a Fla. gas plant as a welder. They moved out toGillete Wyoming and he continued to work in the oil/gas industry out there. Sam was born and bred in Wyoming. He was 1/2 quarter horse, 1/2 Belgian Draft. I’m trying to remember the fellow’s name we bought Sam from (John), John broke him, did hunting guide work with Sam. Sam pulled sleds in the winter, shot rifles off his back, strapped Elk on his back. He was real sound. Gentle to a fault too. Not that anyone asked but the reason John moved back to Fla., he got hurt real bad riding a GS BMW, like the one I had-riding on some logging roads, a log truck ame out of nowhere, dragged John a 1/4 mile before the truck stopped. He ended up with rods in both legs, on and on. After that, the winters there in WY were too brutal for his patched up bones so they moved back to Fla.

I’ve been looking through my Flickr photo stream and dont see any current horse pics there. I have a bunch on my phone, probably shot with the iPhone 8, prolly some with the 11. I’ll see what i can load up and post them here after a spell


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
 
If you want easier, disconnect the exhaust forward of the springs. You can then swivel the pipe and easily install all springs. Once the springs are installed, reconnect the forward exhaust joint.
I did ours that way years ago. No fighting hooks, screwdrivers or other stuff trying to get the springs on.



~~~finally found some time to get the Spyder up in the air so i could crawl under her and take a look where to disconnect the pipe

51544729305_035a6ca825_h.jpg


I’m guessing this is where you disconnected the pipe in front of the springs. Looking at that band clamp, looks to me like they printed that clamp’s torque spec in Newton Meters. Yeah so it seems like it will be easier to unbolt the pipe here, let it come down, unbolt the rear of the catalytic where it joins the exhaust can (final muffler), do the swap, bolt it all back up

Anyways, i was watching a you tube video where the fellow shot (taped, recorded) how he did his. His channel is called “It’s yours, Own it”. From memory it may have took him all of 20-25 minutes start to finish and the deed was done, including him firing the motor up so you could hear what his (RT) sounded like after the install, & IIRC, he installed the included baffle. The point i want to make, watching him undo then hook all 3 springs back up, and just to be clear, all he did to install his cat delete pipe was to undo the springs and drop the primary muffler, he had no trouble removing then installing the springs, probably because his RT was older, had a pile of miles on it so I would imagine, the springs lost a lot of their original tension. Either that or I’m a total wimp<LOL>


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while
 
Yes, disconnect the exhaust at that point, just use caution for the O2 sensor wires. That pipe will swivel on the bypass pipe coupler, so join this pipe and the bypass pipe with the band clamp. So place the bypass in the rubber shock mounts, install the clamp at the forward end. Do not yet install the muffler clamp or muffler. You want the two pipes to move about. Then with enough tension on the previously snugged up band clamp that joins the bypass and exhaust tube, you can swivel the two pipes, decreasing the distance between the two eyelets to mount the springs. You will likely use the hook tool. Do the top spring first. Then swivel the pipe towards each of the other two springs as you install each spring. As you flex the pipes, you will be stretching the opposite springs to reduce the distance between eyelets. The long exhaust pipe gives you leverage to do this, and stretches the springs less to install them.

For me, that made it super easy. Agree, about 15 to 20 minutes to swap in the bypass pipe.
 
Yes, disconnect the exhaust at that point, just use caution for the O2 sensor wires. That pipe will swivel on the bypass pipe coupler, so join this pipe and the bypass pipe with the band clamp. So place the bypass in the rubber shock mounts, install the clamp at the forward end. Do not yet install the muffler clamp or muffler. You want the two pipes to move about. Then with enough tension on the previously snugged up band clamp that joins the bypass and exhaust tube, you can swivel the two pipes, decreasing the distance between the two eyelets to mount the springs. You will likely use the hook tool. Do the top spring first. Then swivel the pipe towards each of the other two springs as you install each spring. As you flex the pipes, you will be stretching the opposite springs to reduce the distance between eyelets. The long exhaust pipe gives you leverage to do this, and stretches the springs less to install them.

For me, that made it super easy. Agree, about 15 to 20 minutes to swap in the bypass pipe.


~~~I didn’t see oxygen sensor wires. That said, I can take another look. Maybe I’m dense but the way you explained the above made no sense to me. But, I’he been up longer than I should. IOW, I need to sleep


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
 
I did the cat delete also, and had no problems, taking the springs out on my F3s, by all means no popeye, Just hooked and pulled, my F3 is 2019 with 12500 km's on it...

Did take me like half an hour to complete the job, including the all important coffee-break.... :))
Tried the baffle, but it was creating to much backpressure, for the tune I have, did get rid of the akropovic, cause it was too loud, now running with stock endpipe, with a cat delete from RLS, and I am quite stoked with the sound
 
I did the cat delete also, and had no problems, taking the springs out on my F3s, by all means no popeye, Just hooked and pulled, my F3 is 2019 with 12500 km's on it...

Did take me like half an hour to complete the job, including the all important coffee-break.... :))
Tried the baffle, but it was creating to much backpressure, for the tune I have, did get rid of the akropovic, cause it was too loud, now running with stock endpipe, with a cat delete from RLS, and I am quite stoked with the sound





~~~~the problem I’m having removing the springs, I’m right handed and the ring finger on my right hand is bandaged to the point, i have no strength in that hand. I can’t even wipe my ass with that hand…you have no idea<LOL>. I have an appointment with the surgeon October 14th, he’s going to set a date 4 weeks later to go back in and remove the two pins he inserted into the ring finger, then it will be another 8 weeks until i can take that same bandage off again. It really pains me not having full use of my dominant hand, so I’m thinking strongly about waiting until after the first of the new year before attempting this dealeo


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Any man who thinks he can be prosperous by letting the government take care of him, better take a closer look at the American Indian -Henry Ford
 
There's no young fella's next door that could give you a hand with that job??




~~~my carpenter is 28, he’d do it but i have him on other stuff & besides, I like to work on my Spyder myself because its fun. Problem is, this job with the current state of my right hand, is a bit much for it. I just dont have what it takes at the moment. It’s not the end of the world. What did they say about Rome?

It’s not that i need to get this done now. It’s not going to kill me to wait a few months, then get back to it


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
 
Jake…
Thank you for posting Sam’s picture and interesting background…I thoroughly enjoyed it.
Wishing you a successful procedure and speedy recovery with the finger!
Best…. Carla
 
~~~~that’s an interesting solution, care to explain how you came by the parts used? I’m not familiar with any of it. Looks very solid Ric.

Thanking you in advance!

BTW, I’ll have to give your screwdriver tip a go, sounds easier than what I did with the strap wrench, but I have to ask, how about the spring above, was that an issue for you using a screwdriver, or no?

Admittedly, i only removed one spring, then put it back on right away as i had 4 tons of hay being delivered the following day and had to move my Spyder so it didn’t get in the way. Something else too-

51520904675_536e0d0a50_h.jpg


As you can see, i bunged my right ring finger up recently & I dont have the full use of that hand. Makes everyday tasks like R&Ring part of your STeed’s exhaust system a bit of a challenge. I just might wait until this hand is completely healed before completing this task, but knowing myself as i do, I’m a bit impatient and once I start something, I like to finish it



Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood
Note to self: Never get into farming.
Yep, the screwdriver worked on the top spring too.
Those clamps were purchased at a local auto parts store, the chains didn't have them. Less than $5 each. They come in various sizes, so you need to measure the diameters of the pipes. I had to drill to correct the alignment of the holes.
 
I don't know for sure about BRP's clamp bands. On a Harley, I do know they recommend replacing the clamps every time because they are stretched into position by tightening the bolt. I tried reusing them once but later regretted it when my slip-on mufflers slipped back off due to a loose clamp. Not worth saving their fairly low cost.
 
Shakin__Jake,
Here's an Amazon link to the type I used. You can see they are made of several layers and the bolt holes are punched with the piece. That's why the holes don't align well and I needed to drill so the bolt can slide in. I bought mine at a local part store for half of Amazon's price.
Another brand is Nickson, that's the one I used. The P/N is 17177.
https://www.amazon.com/Walker-31884...refix=exhaust+manifold+clamps,aps,226&sr=8-44

Here's the Nickson version. I paid less that a third of Amazon's price. Amazon pulled the old dope peddler's trick - get 'em hooked, then raise the prices.
https://www.amazon.com/Nickson-Indu...dp/B00AZWSMWG/ref=psdc_15726851_t2_B0015KUC5W
 
~~~I didn’t see oxygen sensor wires. That said, I can take another look. Maybe I’m dense but the way you explained the above made no sense to me. But, I’he been up longer than I should. IOW, I need to sleep


Best,




Jake
Reddick Fla.

To better understand, your actual muffler on the side of the Spyder has a swivel type ball coupling also. They use the swivel setup to prevent having the exhaust rigid preventing it to move slightly as needed.

If you go to your Spyder, as it sits right now, use your good hand and pull the muffler away from the Spyder, you will see the swivel move, pretty basic I know. As you can possibly see, utilizing the swivel, you could stretch a spring via simple leverage, and shorten an opposite spring, making it much easier to remove or install. Granted the muffler does not utilize springs, but the bypass pipe does so it easily floats to align.

Regardless, all the best in accomplishing the task. If you were a bunch closer than 3 1/2 hours North of me, I would offer a bit of help to get your setup installed.
 
Back
Top