• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Knock off or BRP hitch ?

Warranty address?

Hey all,
As a general rule, BRP does not "void" warranties. If a warranty claim is made and the issue is shown to not be a manufacturer defect but instead is caused by an aftermarket item or improper installation, it is possible that that specific warranty claim might be denied; it does not
"void" the remainder of your warranty.
Thanks,
Steve
Do u have the address I send the mail in warranty documents in to ?
 
You send that to your dealer. I had to do the same also watch the dates of coverage .

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
So what I'm hearing is unless you tow a BRP trailer with your BRP hitch and plug and play wiring harness you will have issues. Is this correct
 
........... So Jack is Super Clamp .....OEM ????? :dontknow:....you seem to love that :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: .... Mike :bbq:



Super Clamp was made in CA NA DA. It is a slick method for securing the Spyder to your trailer. Not an OEM part for the Spyder if I read you right.


​Jack
 
:shocked::hun:


:agree: But what should be a consideration for anyone who plans of towing, is that an item designed for the bike by the builders of the bike... should probably have FEWER issues. :thumbup:
Naw, if one can do it better, then do it. Don't let people drag you down.If a trailer is isolated by relays for each trailer light function, no problem. Nanny has no idea there is a trailer on my RS-S! My trailers, yes two, are isolated by a Goldwing after market relay isolator. No problem on Goldwings in 200,000 miles and no problem on my RS-S in 32,000 miles. Entirely too much bull fodder on here for thread count. Early trailers were on GS/RS units. For the life of me, I don't know why BRP did not use a 5 wire trailer? Why have a 5 wire Spyder and a 4 wire trailer? If the trailer is 5 wire, then no converter is required. However with a computer controled cycle you must have electrical isolation to prevent arching into the computer.
 
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Hey all,
As a general rule, BRP does not "void" warranties. If a warranty claim is made and the issue is shown to not be a manufacturer defect but instead is caused by an aftermarket item or improper installation, it is possible that that specific warranty claim might be denied; it does not
"void" the remainder of your warranty.
Thanks,
Steve
Why did you use a 4 wire trailer on a 5 wire Spyder? Thanks in advance, Bill. [email protected]
 
:shocked::hun:


:agree: But what should be a consideration for anyone who plans of towing, is that an item designed for the bike by the builders of the bike... should probably have FEWER issues. :thumbup:
Electricity is universal. It doesn't care what brand of vehicle it's flowing in! :D If the components that control its flow are designed properly then it makes no difference what vehicle they are in, or who made them. I think the early BRP modules were a proprietary design that didn't conform to normal trailer wiring systems and weren't electrically rugged enough. The newer module is a third party, Hopkins it has been said, standard module that is made to operate with anyone's properly configured trailer. Any reputable trailer will be wired properly. Based on problems reported here reputable does not include the little Harbor Freight trailers! :banghead: All the lights need to have their ground leads connected to the ground wire in the connector plug. In fact I've never had a lick of problem with the lights on my trailer and they aren't connected to the trailer frame at all.
 
I might be wrong... but didn't their 2010 setup originally include back-up lights?:dontknow:
It might have. There is no user manual for the 2010 trailer on the BRP website. The earliest is for the 2011 trailer and it shows the trailer as being only a 4 wire system, hence combined turn/stop lights and no backup lights.
 
Ok this may sound stupid but who is Pierre? Secondly I used to pull a trailer behind my Victory it was a 5 flat, I've just retired it back to 4 flat I hope my new 2016 RT Limited will work properly with the BRP wiring set up. If not I will have to try something different.
 
Ok this may sound stupid but who is Pierre? Secondly I used to pull a trailer behind my Victory it was a 5 flat, I've just retired it back to 4 flat I hope my new 2016 RT Limited will work properly with the BRP wiring set up. If not I will have to try something different.
You shouldn't have any issues with the trailer connected to the RT. You'll need to get or make a 4 square to 4 flat adapter. The easiest way is to cut the 4 flat in two and tape one half above the other and plug it in!

Pierre is SpyderTV. I don't remember what his accessories business name is and I can't find a link right off the bat. He's in Canada.
 
trailer hitch OEM or aftermarket

However with a computer controlled cycle you must have electrical isolation to prevent arching into the computer.

I'm confused; where is all the electrical arching coming from with a trailer?????

Al
 
However with a computer controlled cycle you must have electrical isolation to prevent arching into the computer.

I'm confused; where is all the electrical arching coming from with a trailer?????

Al
You probably already know this but I read this as a case of the words not conveying the intended meaning. I think he's referring to surges. Apparently the earlier Can Am isolators were sensitive to surges in the ground circuit of the trailer lights if the ground path, or part of it, was made through the tongue and hitch ball contact.

I don't know how vulnerable systems are on other bikes like the Goldwing, but I maintain we need to be careful with the Spyder. The turn signal power comes directly from the cluster with no fuse or other protection in the circuit. If you connect trailer light wiring directly to the bike turn signal wiring you create the possibility of mucking up the cluster. If the turn signal wires on the trailer short out you could, maybe, damage the cluster. That would be a multi hundred dollar repair. You also could strand yourself in the middle of the dessert, or city, or wherever if your cluster goes south. An isolator only pulls enough current from the turn signal wires to activate a relay which sends power from the battery to the trailer lights. If you have a disaster with the trailer wiring the isolator prevents damaging the bike circuits. As for brake and tail lights a short in the trailer won't kill the fuse protecting your bike lights if you have an isolator in the circuit.

The isolator is insurance against unknown failure modes and restricts trailer electrical disasters to the trailer.
 
However with a computer controlled cycle you must have electrical isolation to prevent arching into the computer.

I'm confused; where is all the electrical arching coming from with a trailer?????

Al
I will try one more time. If the wiring on the trailer should be come frayed and arc to ground, this is called electrical noise. This is what shorts out components in the converter on a Spyder. The idea is to open the circuit fuse and not take out the the circuit. The isolator I use is powered directly from the battery with a master fuse, and each trailer wire has a fuse. THIS IS TOTAL ISOLATION! This is about the best I can do for those of you that do not have an electronic background or just trying to up your thread count.
 
You probably already know this but I read this as a case of the words not conveying the intended meaning. I think he's referring to surges. Apparently the earlier Can Am isolators were sensitive to surges in the ground circuit of the trailer lights if the ground path, or part of it, was made through the tongue and hitch ball contact.

I don't know how vulnerable systems are on other bikes like the Goldwing, but I maintain we need to be careful with the Spyder. The turn signal power comes directly from the cluster with no fuse or other protection in the circuit. If you connect trailer light wiring directly to the bike turn signal wiring you create the possibility of mucking up the cluster. If the turn signal wires on the trailer short out you could, maybe, damage the cluster. That would be a multi hundred dollar repair. You also could strand yourself in the middle of the dessert, or city, or wherever if your cluster goes south. An isolator only pulls enough current from the turn signal wires to activate a relay which sends power from the battery to the trailer lights. If you have a disaster with the trailer wiring the isolator prevents damaging the bike circuits. As for brake and tail lights a short in the trailer won't kill the fuse protecting your bike lights if you have an isolator in the circuit.

The isolator is insurance against unknown failure modes and restricts trailer electrical disasters to the trailer.
Thank you, Bill...
 
I would hope the BRP product would avoid that happening my Yamaha Venture and Victory Cross Country used the happy isolator, no issues plulling the same trailer. If the BRP product dosent prevent any back feed what reason would we use it? I just purchased a 2016 leftover RT Limited and I'm waiting on the BRP hitch and plug and play electrical to come in now I'm on the fence as to what to do
 
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