keyed power

[phagen28]

I am new to the forum, new to Spyder. I am trying to add some lights and maybe some other electrical things to my 2011 RT A&C. I have looked for any posts in this regard but haven't found anything much. Some have recomended a
3 circuit set up with relay built in.The part I can't find or figure out is, where can I get keyed power from to power up the aux power circuits. Also, has anybody set up a grounding block somewhere to run some grounds back to since everything here is plastic. I am looking too, for a couple waterproof switches to make it all work.
thanks for any help or advice
Paul in MA

 

[NancysToy]

If you use the Eastern Beaver 3CS, the connectors all include grounds. The larger fuseblocks typically have both a ground bus and a power bus built in. You can switch the fuseblock relay off any non-monitored lighting circuit. Since my 3CS is mounted in the rear, I used the lighting wire to the passenger heated grips switch (20 ga. Lt Green/Gray).

 

[ARtraveler]

:welcome:

I am not an electrical expert so will leave that to others.

 

[Bob Denman]

Welcome aboard! :2thumbs:
I am also not anything of an expert... I'm barely even allowed to change batteries in a flashlight... :shocked:
But I do know which fingers shouldn't be stuck in outlets when taking a bath... :roflblack:

 

[NorthStar]

I would recommend that you purchase a fuse block as Scotty suggested. My Eastern Beaver fuse block is mounted up front inside my frunk, but others have mounted their units in different locations and closer to the battery.

Attached is a basic wiring diagram that illustrates the hook up of such a fuse block. Originally, I tapped into the left side heated grip wiring, but eventually settled on the switched power of the temperature gauge up front.

Not a difficult job, and well worth the effort.

 

[phagen28]

Thanks everybody. Looks like thats the way to go.

 

[phagen28]

All set with the install of my 3CS. Ordered it up right away, got it right away, and installed it just as easy as you guys said it would be. The lesson in it was mine though because I didn't realize I could access the battery the way I needed to by just taking out the 2 torx screws that go straight down at the front and rear of the left side passenger handle grip. these would be just inside the edge of where the seat sits down onto.Instead I removed both left side panels to get to it. I had seen someone elses post about the easy removal of the battery cover by just taking out 2 screws but really didn't see that it was these 2 until I had everything off and still had to take them out to get to where I needed to be.Anyhow, thanks Scotty for the advice on the 3CS. I can already see how handy this will be. Have already connected it to my GPS.
thanks to all who contributed

 

[Bob Denman]

I sure would like to see some pictures... pps: Please??

 

[IceCube]

Corbin Seat Wiring

I would recommend that you purchase a fuse block as Scotty suggested. My Eastern Beaver fuse block is mounted up front inside my frunk, but others have mounted their units in different locations and closer to the battery.

Attached is a basic wiring diagram that illustrates the hook up of such a fuse block. Originally, I tapped into the left side heated grip wiring, but eventually settled on the switched power of the temperature gauge up front.

Not a difficult job, and well worth the effort.

Thank you for the wiring info. Wife has a 2012 RT Limited. Just installed corbin Heated seat. Powered from F8 Fuse in front per Corbin wiring. this is not switched. Corbin has not returned my request for info. I want a switched power supply to the heated seat. Is your wiring the best way. I understand your print and it looks like my best deal. Grips, GPS power all Factory so your print would give me relays for more lights Ect? Info please.

 

[NorthStar]

Thank you for the wiring info. Wife has a 2012 RT Limited. Just installed corbin Heated seat. Powered from F8 Fuse in front per Corbin wiring. this is not switched. Corbin has not returned my request for info. I want a switched power supply to the heated seat. Is your wiring the best way. I understand your print and it looks like my best deal. Grips, GPS power all Factory so your print would give me relays for more lights Ect? Info please.

Not being familiar with the Corbin Heated seat I assume you want to ensure that the heating elements in the seat shut down when you turn off the engine. I can't imagine that the stock wiring set up for your Corbin would allow the seat to continue drawing power from the battery after you shut down the Spyder. Maybe someone with a heated Corbin seat on their RT can step in and clear up this concern.

 

[cjackg]

If you use the Eastern Beaver 3CS, the connectors all include grounds. The larger fuseblocks typically have both a ground bus and a power bus built in. You can switch the fuseblock relay off any non-monitored lighting circuit. Since my 3CS is mounted in the rear, I used the lighting wire to the passenger heated grips switch (20 ga. Lt Green/Gray).

I happen to have a brand new Eastern Beaver 3CS - AFS set here that I dont plan to use. If anyone is interested send me a PM.
Price is 10% off my orig cost & delivered.
Jack

 

[IceCube]

Not being familiar with the Corbin Heated seat I assume you want to ensure that the heating elements in the seat shut down when you turn off the engine. I can't imagine that the stock wiring set up for your Corbin would allow the seat to continue drawing power from the battery after you shut down the Spyder. Maybe someone with a heated Corbin seat on their RT can step in and clear up this concern.

It is wired per Corbin. 2012 Rt Limited Front fuse block F8 Fuse is hot with key off, I also was surprized. But sseat is hot with key off. I ahve worked in the controls field for 30 years so I will come relay and block to get a keyed circuit to handle heater amps. Corbin has not got back with me. Have read others on here have same problem. Thanks for this site. its great to be part of it.