It will cost me $1500 - don't make the same mistake

[Martin Slovakia]

Hi guys, i know its simple topic but it maybe will help to some of you and also maybe you will save yourself 1500+ USD

Always you can find more useful info at
[url]www.martinthevlogger.com - CLICK HERE[/URL]

 

[DaniBoy]

Sorry (not sorry) but if these things are that fragile, then why aren’t steering related crashes making the news everyday? There isn’t a one of us that hasn’t pushed our Spyders using only the handlebars

 

[USAF]

What cost you 1500 for pushing it ?

 

[jcthorne]

Sorry, but I disagree with the conclusion that pushing the bike using the handlebars is the cause of his steering slop. Its a worn steering unit, has nothing to do with pushing it. And by the way, have seen brand new bikes with more slop than that. Some have much less. There is some free play in the steering shaft.

 

[BajaRon]

Sorry, but I disagree with the conclusion that pushing the bike using the handlebars is the cause of his steering slop. Its a worn steering unit, has nothing to do with pushing it. And by the way, have seen brand new bikes with more slop than that. Some have much less. There is some free play in the steering shaft.

I agree. We've been pushing our shop bikes in and out of the shop several times a week and we don't have steering slop like that. I'm not sure how pushing on the bars translates to damage to the DPS (About a $1,500.00 part not counting installation). My thought would be the very bad roads and the hard riding I've seen in Martin's videos. Now that would be hard on any vehicle's steering components. I think his video on the Ryker steering dampener is a telling fact. You may be able to dampen the jolt to the handlebars. But the steering dampener is mounted after the DPS and the steering shaft universal joint. Which means these components are still taking the full brunt of the force.

In our relatively short repair shop experience. We've found the steering shaft universal to be wear/slop prone. In every case, so far. Replacing that steering knuckle has restored a tight steering condition. We've seen bad DPS units. But we've not experienced sloppy DPS units.

Not necessarily saying that Martin is wrong. I'm just not seeing the connection here.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

:agree: with posters # 2-3-4-& 5 ..... jmho .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Martin Slovakia]

What cost you 1500 for pushing it ?

its power steering unit, or some part there, that needs to be completly replaced as there is not partial solution to it. Once the mechanic told the price, i have stopped listening so i dont know the part number

 

[Martin Slovakia]

I agree. We've been pushing our shop bikes in and out of the shop several times a week and we don't have steering slop like that. I'm not sure how pushing on the bars translates to damage to the DPS (About a $1,500.00 part not counting installation). My thought would be the very bad roads and the hard riding I've seen in Martin's videos. Now that would be hard on any vehicle's steering components. I think his video on the Ryker steering dampener is a telling fact. You may be able to dampen the jolt to the handlebars. But the steering dampener is mounted after the DPS and the steering shaft universal joint. Which means these components are still taking the full brunt of the force.

In our relatively short repair shop experience. We've found the steering shaft universal to be wear/slop prone. In every case, so far. Replacing that steering knuckle has restored a tight steering condition. We've seen bad DPS units. But we've not experienced sloppy DPS units.

Not necessarily saying that Martin is wrong. I'm just not seeing the connection here.

I agree with you Ron about me doing crazy stuf. Also my riding may have had some impact on that bloody unit. The thumbnail was maybe to "agresive" to actract views, but still I believe pushing the bYke in long run with handlebars only dont help the bYke.
heavier the bYke is the more trouble it will get in loooong run.
always nice to see you areoun here and comenting
Martin

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I think ....TURNING .... A Spyder without the engine running could cause this issue, but simply pushing it a few feet isn't causing damage. I have moved my 14 RT this way and have 75,000 mi. on it and the steering is still within spec. ..... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

I agree with you Ron about me doing crazy stuf. Also my riding may have had some impact on that bloody unit. The thumbnail was maybe to "agresive" to actract views, but still I believe pushing the bYke in long run with handlebars only dont help the bYke.
heavier the bYke is the more trouble it will get in loooong run.
always nice to see you areoun here and comenting
Martin

You've got some bad roads, there Martin. And you like to ride hard. Nothing wrong with that. Just the kind of thing that would cause the issue you're having. We've got some pretty bad roads here as well. But before you go replacing your DPS. Check this component in the steering column. It is the universal joint at the top of the steering shaft that gets loose. It is very easy to see if the uppder shaft is turning and the lower shaft is not. Of course, inner and outer tie rod end bearings can also add to the problem.

 

[Martin Slovakia]

You've got some bad roads, there Martin. And you like to ride hard. Nothing wrong with that. Just the kind of thing that would cause the issue you're having. We've got some pretty bad roads here as well. But before you go replacing your DPS. Check this component in the steering column. It is the universal joint at the top of the steering shaft that gets loose. It is very easy to see if the uppder shaft is turning and the lower shaft is not. Of course, inner and outer tie rod end bearings can also add to the problem.

View attachment 200886

Ron this is great advise. I have put that into my folder, so when the time comes I will check on that. THANK YOU!!!

 

[acdcking12]

I have absolutely from day one, never pushed by the handlebars. I always grab the passenger bar. And I steer with the other hand. To me, that seems to be the most logical thing to do.

But wouldn't think pushing by the handlebars would damage anything though.

 

[pegasus1300]

Ron , it looks like you have to replace that entire column to change the U Joint. Do you also need to reset the steering with Buds?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Ron , it looks like you have to replace that entire column to change the U Joint. Do you also need to reset the steering with Buds?

If I'm understanding that fiche' the U-joint isn't sold as a separate part. However the column and the u-joint were created separately so if you take that part out I'm sure you can find a U-joint that will match. .... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[vito1943]

Pulling rather than pushing can't do any harm.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Pulling rather than pushing can't do any harm.

:hun: " pulling " is just " pushing " from the other side of the handlebars..... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Flamewinger]

You’re comparing a new model with a well used model and it’s the way you push it that causes a problem?? I don’t think so. The few of your videos I’ve seen tell me you abuse them. Ride them hard like wanting to burn rubber with the rear.

Sorry but I don’t think so.

 

[BajaRon]

Ron , it looks like you have to replace that entire column to change the U Joint. Do you also need to reset the steering with Buds?

The answers are 'Yes' and 'No'. The universals we have encountered are welded onto the end of the steering shaft. You could, theoretically, change out the pressed in bearing component. But if there is any wear in the race, you're not going to fix the issue. Even if you could replace the universal itself with the same connection specs. It is a proprietary piece that I do not think you're going to find anywhere.

You do not need BUDS for this as it will not change the steering angle.

:hun: " pulling " is just " pushing " from the other side of the handlebars..... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

I know the fiche appears to have the universal as a separate part. And, obviously, it began life that way. But the ones we've seen are welded at the end. Plus, I'm not sure you're going to find this particular configuration with both mating ends the correct size.

Bad picture. But I hope this helps.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

You do not need BUDS for this as it will not change the steering angle.

I'm not sure what the dealer tech did wrong other than put the shaft on the wrong spline, but I had to realign the front wheels and reset the steering angle with BUDS after they replaced the steering column in my 2014 RT. One grip was a good inch farther forward than the other. Took me a year of riding to finally figure out what the problem was. Fixing it is what led me to my realignment saga, described here. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ent-correcting-dealer-foul-up&highlight=align

 

[BajaRon]

I'm not sure what the dealer tech did wrong other than put the shaft on the wrong spline, but I had to realign the front wheels and reset the steering angle with BUDS after they replaced the steering column in my 2014 RT. One grip was a good inch farther forward than the other. Took me a year of riding to finally figure out what the problem was. Fixing it is what led me to my realignment saga, described here. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ent-correcting-dealer-foul-up&highlight=align

Well, yes. It does require that the replacement be aligned as the original. 1 spine off would give you the end result you had. I'm surprised they let it leave the shop that way. And, to be fair. We always check with BUDS after doing one of these. But it has always been OK with no adjustment of steering angle needed. But maybe a blanket statement is not the best route.