BajaRon
Well-known member
I run tires a bit longer than most. I don't recommend it. I just do it. This is my last rear tire. I figure if you can't see the air... You're good to go!

It does look like you ran that tire a bit over-inflated. I'm curious as to what pressure you're running in the rear.
Any car tire is going to lose some traction capabilities as the weather cools because they have a harder rubber compound than the Kenda's. And it gets even harder when cold. Just one of the trade-offs of getting a decent tire.
I am with BlueKnight on the snow thing. You'll need studs or chains to get any real traction in snow with a Spyder.
As for the pads. You have plenty left as the wear limit is 1mm or about 3/4 the width of a dime. The groove in the OEM pads ends well before you get to 1mm. So it is not necessarily an accurate wear meter. You do have some uneven wear there. Not all that uncommon, regardless of the vehicle. Whether or not you install new pads, be sure to clean and lube the slides and pins so everything is free. Use a very thin layer of Anti-Seize on the contact areas.

It does look like you ran that tire a bit over-inflated. I'm curious as to what pressure you're running in the rear.
Any car tire is going to lose some traction capabilities as the weather cools because they have a harder rubber compound than the Kenda's. And it gets even harder when cold. Just one of the trade-offs of getting a decent tire.
I am with BlueKnight on the snow thing. You'll need studs or chains to get any real traction in snow with a Spyder.
As for the pads. You have plenty left as the wear limit is 1mm or about 3/4 the width of a dime. The groove in the OEM pads ends well before you get to 1mm. So it is not necessarily an accurate wear meter. You do have some uneven wear there. Not all that uncommon, regardless of the vehicle. Whether or not you install new pads, be sure to clean and lube the slides and pins so everything is free. Use a very thin layer of Anti-Seize on the contact areas.
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