Is this a Major Electrical Short??? Any suggestions?

[solidgranite]

Did you do the battery testing Andy described? If you posted it, I missed it. But, that's where I would suggest you start before anything drastic.

Yes, and the voltages were within the tolerances given. I did examine all the fuses , but wasn't sure how to set the voltmeter for the 4 (and5) prong relays. I can't possibly diagnose the problems from a wiring diagram so...as soon as I can, I'll remove the battery, and take it to an auto parts place where they'll do a full and total charge. My RT is a 2012 model, so removing the battery is like doing a root canal on a Kodiak bear with no anesthesia! In 2013 they moved the battery location to the frunk, but mine is under the seat in the most inconvenient position possible. I'll keep ya posted...

 

[DickB]

Post photos of the relays with the part numbers readable and I'll tell you how to test them.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Yes, and the voltages were within the tolerances given. ... < snip > ...

As mentioned before, I, and many others here, have found that if your battery voltage drops below 12 volts during any load testing, especially under starting load when there's a large electrical load put on the battery, then you are very likely to have issues with getting all the computers and sensors, solenoids etc fired up and doing their thing properly at the same time!!

So if your load testing shows anything less than 12 volts at any time, you really need to check all your Spyder's terminals and earthing points to make sure they are clean, tight, and onto bright metal (star washers will help keep them that way) being very careful with that main earth under the seat, cos it can be easily over-tightened and strip the captive nut out of the frame! Then you can try properly charging the battery (with an AGM Charger, not just a tender) and see if that helps.

If not, then it's probably new battery time, and you'll need a good quality battery (NOT a BRP battery!) with at least 350 CCA & 21 A/hrs, as anything less won't work for long, and you will need to make sure that it's been properly charged (at least 8 hours on a proper charger) BEFORE installation - and don't just take the retailer's word for it!! Most don't, they just give 'em a quick surface charge, enough to start the first couple of times in the hope that any riding you do after will keep ahead of the battery dying, or you'll be a long way away from them when it fails! Failure to charge a new battery properly before installation can mean that you kill even a brand new battery within a couple of starts, and that's even before you start looking at how well the V-twin Spyder's Magneto charging system is working...

 

[solidgranite]

As mentioned before, I, and many others here, have found that if your battery voltage drops below 12 volts during any load testing, especially under starting load when there's a large electrical load put on the battery, then you are very likely to have issues with getting all the computers and sensors, solenoids etc fired up and doing their thing properly at the same time!!

So if your load testing shows anything less than 12 volts at any time, you really need to check all your Spyder's terminals and earthing points to make sure they are clean, tight, and onto bright metal (star washers will help keep them that way) being very careful with that main earth under the seat, cos it can be easily over-tightened and strip the captive nut out of the frame! Then you can try properly charging the battery (with an AGM Charger, not just a tender) and see if that helps.

If not, then it's probably new battery time, and you'll need a good quality battery (NOT a BRP battery!) with at least 350 CCA & 21 A/hrs, as anything less won't work for long, and you will need to make sure that it's been properly charged (at least 8 hours on a proper charger) BEFORE installation - and don't just take the retailer's word for it!! Most don't, they just give 'em a quick surface charge, enough to start the first couple of times in the hope that any riding you do after will keep ahead of the battery dying, or you'll be a long way away from them when it fails! Failure to charge a new battery properly before installation can mean that you kill even a brand new battery within a couple of starts, and that's even before you start looking at how well the V-twin Spyder's Magneto charging system is working...

Hi. Sorry it took so long for me to get back to you. I'm "battling" some medical issues, plus we've had rain just about every day this month. I finally removed the battery, and took it in to a parts place for testing. The guy said the battery was working perfectly well. It has a CCA rating of 350, but was at 435 according to his testing machine. It loks like the battery is not the cause of the myriad of faults and problems. The terminal connections were tight and snug. I think my only recourse is to bring it to the Can Am dealer, and pray for the best. I can't afford thousands and thousands, and that's likely to be their estimate. First I need to make sure they will run diagnostics on my 2012. This is their busiest season, so they may refuse, citing age and "parts availability". I'll post the results when I get them. Thanks very much for sharing you knowledge and experience!

 

[DickB]

You said it starts and runs. I need to know if the cluster works.

 

[solidgranite]

You said it starts and runs. I need to know if the cluster works.

The answer is both yes and no. I can start the bike, and it will run. The main cluster unit lights up, and then begins to show "failures" (with no fault codes, just the icons and wording). Pushing the "mode" button on the left hand unit (shifter, directionals, hi/lo beam, windshield up/down, etc.) does nothing. I'm going to call my BRP/Can Am dealer and ask if they'll run a full BUDS test on the bike. Because the bike is a 2012 model, they may refuse to service it at all. If they agree to diagnose it, I'll ask for an estimate to make it road worthy. The dealer service work tends to be very expensive... plus this is their busiest season of the year! This could spell the end of my Spyder riding...

 

[DickB]

There are two main relays. One powers the SAS, YRS, VCM, ECM, DESS, and more. Power to those would permit the engine to start and run. The other relay powers the TCM (Transmission Control Module), DPS (Dynamic Power Steering), WPM (Windshield and Parking brake Module), and more, all stuff that is not working. It also powers the cluster, but there is a second power connection to the cluster, which might explain why your cluster is partially working. I would suggest that the second main relay is bad. I can explain how to test it, or they are not terribly expensive, just replace it. It could be the 25A main relay fuse, but I believe that you said you checked fuses. I don't think BUDS is going to be of much help actually.

 

[DickB]

Actually it looks like the Main Relay 2 and the Cooling Fan Relay may be the same. If the part numbers on the relays are indeed the same, try swapping them.

 

[solidgranite]

There are two main relays. One powers the SAS, YRS, VCM, ECM, DESS, and more. Power to those would permit the engine to start and run. The other relay powers the TCM (Transmission Control Module), DPS (Dynamic Power Steering), WPM (Windshield and Parking brake Module), and more, all stuff that is not working. It also powers the cluster, but there is a second power connection to the cluster, which might explain why your cluster is partially working. I would suggest that the second main relay is bad. I can explain how to test it, or they are not terribly expensive, just replace it. It could be the 25A main relay fuse, but I believe that you said you checked fuses. I don't think BUDS is going to be of much help actually.


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Thank you very much! My health and upcoming "procedures" are probably going to force me to sell my Spyder, but I'd like to resolve as many issues as I can before I "put it on the block". I will definitely try your solutions, and will buy some relays and swap them around to see if anything changes for the better. Your advice is much appreciated! Ride well, and be safe.

 

[Jetfixer]

I agree with DickB. Could be a very quick fix...