Is it OK to adjust belt with rear wheel off the ground, in gear, & running?

[davos]

Hi, read lots of threads on this subject, and would like to know if it's acceptable to adjust the belt tension and tracking on my 2013 RT Ltd SE5 whilst having the bike in gear and the rear wheel off the ground. I've read that this method might set off dashboard warning lights. Any suggestions would be appreciated, Thanks, David.

 

[DaniBoy]

Tracking is no problem. Tension can also be adjusted that way, but you’ll want to set it about 10 - 15 pounds looser than your goal, then lower bike to the ground and recheck. Adjust as necessary from there.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey David. Yes, it may set off warning lights, but after you put all 3 wheels back on the ground and start riding, they will clear themselves.

 

[NorwegianRT]

I have set the tracking this way several times and it works fine. Tension I have left to the dealer as I had to get a new belt at the end of last season.
Just remember to secure the Spyder while you work on it!

 

[BajaRon]

I have set the tracking this way several times and it works fine. Tension I have left to the dealer as I had to get a new belt at the end of last season.
Just remember to secure the Spyder while you work on it!

I am a bit surprised. Tension and tracking are 2 sides of the same coin. One always affects the other. With the price of a Krikit II to check tension, I'm not sure why you would take this approach.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

The reading you get will be different if the wheel is off the ground or ....on the ground ..... However the difference will remain the same...... I always do mine ON-THE-GROUND @ 160+/- .... ( which I believe is 150 lbs. OFF-THE-GROUND ). IMHO the less pressure on the BEARINGS the better..... Back in 08/09 BRP learned they were using way to much pressure on the belt and were having quite a few BEARING failures. .....So they lowered it and the issue stopped .....Mike :thumbup:

 

[NorwegianRT]

I am a bit surprised. Tension and tracking are 2 sides of the same coin. One always affects the other. With the price of a Krikit II to check tension, I'm not sure why you would take this approach.

Well, I have never had a tension tool of any kind, but sitting behind the bike and adjust tracking is easy. When I replaced the drivebelt last season I took the RT to the dealer for service and had them do a proper belt tension for the new belt.
All the other times I have fidddled with the tracking, I have just assumed it was ok, but never realy had it checked.

 

[BajaRon]

Well, I have never had a tension tool of any kind, but sitting behind the bike and adjust tracking is easy. When I replaced the drivebelt last season I took the RT to the dealer for service and had them do a proper belt tension for the new belt.
All the other times I have fidddled with the tracking, I have just assumed it was ok, but never realy had it checked.

I would not run a belt very long after such an adjustment without getting the tension checked. The Krikit II tension gauge is very inexpensive and easy to use. A lot cheaper than a new belt or wheel bearings.

 

[NorwegianRT]

I would not run a belt very long after such an adjustment without getting the tension checked. The Krikit II tension gauge is very inexpensive and easy to use. A lot cheaper than a new belt or wheel bearings.

I will make a stop by your webshop and order one, if not my local dealer has one in stock.:thumbup:
As for my previous belt, it lasted allmost 12 years. I was probably just lucky

 

[BajaRon]

I will make a stop by your webshop and order one, if not my local dealer has one in stock.:thumbup:
As for my previous belt, it lasted allmost 12 years. I was probably just lucky

Make it easy on yourself. If you can get one for less locally, I would go that route. You don't have to get it from me. But I'm glad you're doing it. I think you will be much better off when able to take the tension reading yourself.

 

[PMK]

As already mentioned, you will trip fault light and code. This goes away on its own during a short ride.

My own experience, in the past I have tried to accomplish belt adjustments with the Spyder rear wheel raised and rotating under the engines power. I was never able to get an acceptable tracking tightening the axle with the wheel raised.

My technique is one where with the rear wheel raised I set the belt tension. I rough in the belt tracking.

The Spyder is lowered. Axle tightened, followed by checking belt tracking. Once set, I never alter the tension. If the belt requires additional tracking adjustments, that is accomplished with the weight on wheels.

Unfortunately, the Spyders less than stellar axle adjusters complicate the task, by shifting as torque is applied to the axle nut.

All the best with it, not difficult, just frustrating.

Also, if the rear driven pulley has any miles on it, sometimes the belt likes to just ride in the area it has been. Therefore a small adjustment may obtain no change, followed by a second small adjustment that moves the belt a lot.

 

[BajaRon]

We adjust with the wheel off the ground, rear tire raised with the axle tight but just loose enough so that the tension adjusters can still move the axle rearward. We only adjust rearward. If we need to go the other direction we loosen the axle, move it forward, retighten it and start over. That way when you tighten the axle, nothing changes. If the axle is loose at all, just tightening the axle nut will change both alignment and, to a lesser degree, tension.

 

[PMK]

We adjust with the wheel off the ground, rear tire raised with the axle tight but just loose enough so that the tension adjusters can still move the axle rearward. We only adjust rearward. If we need to go the other direction we loosen the axle, move it forward, retighten it and start over. That way when you tighten the axle, nothing changes. If the axle is loose at all, just tightening the axle nut will change both alignment and, to a lesser degree, tension.

Exactly what I tried previously and the result I had hoped for. Unfortunately, results were never great. Glad it works for you folks in your shop.

On race bikes, actually all the two wheel toys, wheels and suspension pivots are tightened with weight on wheels.
A machine raised in the air may not fully seat the two items under droop. Apply weight on wheels and all items are settled as they should be during use. No chance for a clearance or wheel to shift, and alter adjustments unintentionally.

But again, glad it works for you.

 

[davos]

Many thanks for all the advice and suggestions, really appreciated, David

 

[Allen42]

This thread caused me to get a Krikit 91132 and check my belt tension due to the vibration that I'm getting at about 3300rpm. (Before I invest in a dampener.) The Krikit says about 210, so I think it should be lowered some.

I would love to try this myself, as taking it to the dealer for just this seems like an unnecessary cost, and they may tell me that 210 is fine, and don't worry about it. And I'm maybe a 7 on the "handy" scale.

DIY questions:



1. What tools are must have? I have a full socket set and cheater (extension bar), but not sure if I have a large enough/deep enough socket. I also have full allen and torx sets. I do not have a torque wrench, but I see that most people say "just make it as tight as you can". Edit: I found where BajaRon say torque is important. So I will now see if my autozone rents torque wrenches cheaply enough to keep me out of the dealer. Edit 2: I see that I can get one on Amazon for about $35, so I will do that: https://a.co/d/0cz72HEX

2. I only have a 2.5 ton small top "regular" floor jack (used for cars) and jack stands (and plenty of wood)... can I safely get the rear up for this?

3. For those of you that say you check alignment with wheel down, how do you do this without a partner following behind you?

Thanks in advance!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

This thread caused me to get a Krikit 91132 and check my belt tension due to the vibration that I'm getting at about 3300rpm. (Before I invest in a dampener.) The Krikit says about 210, so I think it should be lowered some.

I would love to try this myself, as taking it to the dealer for just this seems like an unnecessary cost, and they may tell me that 210 is fine, and don't worry about it. And I'm maybe a 7 on the "handy" scale.

DIY questions:



1. What tools are must have? I have a full socket set and cheater (extension bar), but not sure if I have a large enough/deep enough socket. I also have full allen and torx sets. I do not have a torque wrench, but I see that most people say "just make it as tight as you can". Edit: I found where BajaRon say torque is important. So I will now see if my autozone rents torque wrenches cheaply enough to keep me out of the dealer. Edit 2: I see that I can get one on Amazon for about $35, so I will do that: https://a.co/d/0cz72HEX

2. I only have a 2.5 ton small top "regular" floor jack (used for cars) and jack stands (and plenty of wood)... can I safely get the rear up for this?

3. For those of you that say you check alignment with wheel down, how do you do this without a partner following behind you?

Thanks in advance!

Sorry, I don't remember the nut sizes (?32mm - 35mm?) I use a small aluminum floor jack because it's low enough the get under the rear shock metal tabs for it; a small block of wood under the tabs wide enough to balance is necessary. This allows easy removal of the bolt if needed. If your floor jack isn't low enough you will have to put the Spyder tires on blocks to get it higher. Drive it up onto the blocks first. It sounds like you need LESS tension - the BRP system of positioned SU*KS - why they don't use the ones they have for their snow mobiles is beyond my compression .... there are many posts & some vids on how to do this .... I use a strap around the rear wheel to pull it forward so that when you tighten the nuts, the wheel doesn't move.

Ps: small adjustments on the adjust screws make big changes .... tedious, but necessary .... Good luck! .... Hope this helps ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

This thread caused me to get a Krikit 91132 and check my belt tension due to the vibration that I'm getting at about 3300rpm. (Before I invest in a dampener.) The Krikit says about 210, so I think it should be lowered some.

I would love to try this myself, as taking it to the dealer for just this seems like an unnecessary cost, and they may tell me that 210 is fine, and don't worry about it. And I'm maybe a 7 on the "handy" scale.

DIY questions:



1. What tools are must have? I have a full socket set and cheater (extension bar), but not sure if I have a large enough/deep enough socket. I also have full allen and torx sets. I do not have a torque wrench, but I see that most people say "just make it as tight as you can". Edit: I found where BajaRon say torque is important. So I will now see if my autozone rents torque wrenches cheaply enough to keep me out of the dealer. Edit 2: I see that I can get one on Amazon for about $35, so I will do that: https://a.co/d/0cz72HEX

2. I only have a 2.5 ton small top "regular" floor jack (used for cars) and jack stands (and plenty of wood)... can I safely get the rear up for this?

3. For those of you that say you check alignment with wheel down, how do you do this without a partner following behind you?

Thanks in advance!

You don't say if your reading is wheel lifted or on the ground. Or can I find what Spyder you have. But 210 isn't necessarily too high, depending on the factors mentioned.

 

[Allen42]

You don't say if your reading is wheel lifted or on the ground. Or can I find what Spyder you have. But 210 isn't necessarily too high, depending on the factors mentioned.

Wheel on the ground, in the middle of the top of the belt, cold. 2019 RTL / 1330

 

[BajaRon]

Wheel on the ground, in the middle of the top of the belt, cold. 2019 RTL / 1330

210 is at the lower end of the spectrum. The 2020+ Spyders are coming into the shop around the 250-260 mark on belt tension. Wheel on the ground.

Too loose can create vibration. But typically, you can't eliminate vibration without a dampener. But you can move it around and sometimes reduce severity when it does show up. And you have to give it some miles to settle into the new setting. You'll not be able to know, for sure, what the end result will be with a quick scoot down the road.