• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Is Can Am aware that some 2013 RT's have severe handling issues?

Getting back to the orginal posting of this thread on whether BRP was aware that some 2013's were out of allignment, this may (emphasis added like the original wording of this thread) be a problem, but I think it too early in the ball game and too small a sample to even say that if may be a major issue.

Seeing your dealer and tech is certainly warranted though.

Chris
 
I am new to Spyders as well and found the ride disconcerting at first as well. As Tin Man states above ^^^^^ setting more tire pressure ( mine came from dealer @ 14 psi front) - and firming the ride adjustment made a world of difference at highway speeds and maintaining a clean line in spirited twisties. Hope that is all you are experiencing here. Good luck....
 
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I too was frustrated by this and when I researched the issue the general response was "it's the ryder not the spyder". Unfortunately as I researched further I came across numerous threads that said things like:
I got Elka shocks and now it doesn't dart all over on the highway
I got an alignment and now tractor trailers don't blow me off the road anymore
I got a new CalSci windshield and it's more stable on the interstate
ETC, ETC..
The truth is that it's a combination of both as someone else also said. It takes a good amount of getting used. I would jump on the interstate for drives where I normally wouldn't for just an exit or two to build my experience. I also added air in tires, Elka shocks, Rons swaybar, lead in frunk, and CalSci windscreen. The windshield was interesting. It's wider and reduces the turbulence the rider feels from trucks, etc. This reduced overcontrolling (PIO--pilot induced oscillation). Another thing I believe happens is that the shape of the lower front coupled with the mini wings actually lifts some weight off of the front wheels making the steering more sensitive at high speeds. I've dabbled with some lift killers that have helped. It'll never be a GoldWing on the highway (it's a taildragger with the aerodynamics of a sledgehammer) but you can get to the point that you'll feel comfortable.
 
I had a nightmare for 8 months with my 2011 RT. I had uneven tire wear and new tires put on x2 but the dealer said the alignment was fine. I finally got another Spyder rider to take mine and I took his. His went down the interstate straight and was the best ride I had had on a Spyder. I cannot write here what he said about mine lol! I took it back in and told the dealership. Finally a new mechanic checked it and the alignment and toe in was all off. I now love my ride! So have someone else ride it and don't let the dealers tell you it is all you. It is way too dangerous and no fun to have this great bike wandering all over the road. Good Luck and Ride Safe! Anne




The above posts cover the subject well. A similar post covered the same problem and the consenses was that it could not be BRP--but probably the driver. Now the subject seems to be flip-flopped.

There appears to be a couple issues going on here.

My usual reply to new riders was to avoid the "death grip" and learn to give as little input into the :spyder2: as possible. Most of us on SL have gone through this same process when experiencing the :ani29: for the first time. I drove two wheelers for over 40 years before getting on a :spyder2: and experienced the very same thing. I felt like I was not in "control". It took me a good 500 plus miles before I felt I was comfortable.

The second issue: perhaps some new :spyder2:'s did come from the factory that were not properly aligned. There appeared to be a lot of comments indicating this was a possibility. Another subject mentioned along these lines was possibility of out of round wheels, or bad tires. Another mentioned checking air pressure. All of the above could be a contributing factor to the situation.

IMO: Safety is paramount to the situation and caution is recommended. Try the exercises at low speed in a parking lot or some driving on roads where there is little to no traffic if possible. Work on your confidence and speed slowly. See the owners manual for specifics. If the problem still persists, a check of the :ani29: by the dealer is warranted.

Please keep us posted. Hopefully, if mechanical, this is just a "new model" glitch that they will get solved very quickly.
 
I test drove a Spyder RT twice over a period of about a year before buying. I also have 2 wheelers and have ridden for over 40 years. The learning curve doesn't come quick for some of us, When I purschased the Spyder My wife and I had a cross country trip planned but I vowed to put at least a couple of thousand miles on it before heading out. I also bought the 622 trailer and made many day rides (with the trailer loaded) to get accustomed to the handling before the big trip. By the time we left on the trip I had absoultly no worries with the spyder. The trip covered 4,500 miles and 12 states in a 17 day period. You WILL love the spyder if it is set up correctly and has no mechanical issues to hender your enjoyment. Hang in there, keep us posted.
 
May I offer my .03 to this thread. I had to ride several thousand miles to get used to BR1. I had 45K on my Gold Wing Motor Trike and they are TWO different animals.

Along with the other fine suggestions here, I offer that you should put 25 pounds of air in the front tires and 32 in the back....ride twenty miles and let two pounds out of the front and one out of the back....ride twenty miles again and again adjust pressures....find your own sweet spot...it will be different than others due to weight(s) of rider(s) shock settings...start with three and move up to four or five...it takes a little fooling around but you will be rewarded with a good handling and comfortable machine.

I ride alone and find 18 in front and 28 in the rear with four on my shocks gives me the ride I enjoy....try it, it can't hurt. This plus an alignment check should help and hopefully solve your problem.
 
2013 RT power steering does not seem to be speed sensitive.

I just took delivery of a 2013 RT Limited and was horrified at how dangerous its road handling is. Anything above 50 mph goes beyond scarey and after making an extended trip home, following delivery, I consider myself lucky to be alive.

Trucks passing, undulating pavement, mild cross winds, cause the machine to enter into a high speed wobble that is almost impossible to correct with steering inputs. I've been riding for more than 50 years and this is the worst experience on a road bike I've ever had. Trying to hold a steady line, without wandering side to side, is only possible for short distances. The mental attention it takes to hold the machine in your lane, on the interstate, is beyond description.

I hope Can Am is aware of this and corrects quickly before someone gets hurt, ...or worse.

After 530 miles, much of it highway, on my new 2013 RT, I think I've finally found why the machine exhibits instability at speed. As "KBFK" mentioned in another string, in this same forum, the sensitivity of the power steering, of some new 2013 models, seems to be more sensitive than older models. In further defining my experience, I am guessing that the electronic circut which governs variable assist (lowering steering sensitivity inputs as speed increases) is either defective or not programed correctly in my model, and perhaps other 2013 machines.

The effect is that the slightest movement of the handlebars causes the machine to get into a wobble when at highway speeds. At lower speeds, the steering is still very senstitive, but not as concerning as when at speed.

This may be a "one-off" issue with my machine, which I have an appointment next week to get checked out, or it may be a more widespread issue which has yet to fully mature as more riding experience with the 2013's unfold.

Bottom line: if you're getting serious about buying, or trading up to a 2013, I would recommend taking it out on the highway for a short test drive, and judge for yourself.

With that said, these are great machines. However, a re-program of the power steering may be necessary for the machine to reach it's ultimate purpose - that of a safe touring experience.
 
After 530 miles, much of it highway, on my new 2013 RT, I think I've finally found why the machine exhibits instability at speed. As "KBFK" mentioned in another string, in this same forum, the sensitivity of the power steering, of some new 2013 models, seems to be more sensitive than older models. In further defining my experience, I am guessing that the electronic circut which governs variable assist (lowering steering sensitivity inputs as speed increases) is either defective or not programed correctly in my model, and perhaps other 2013 machines.

The effect is that the slightest movement of the handlebars causes the machine to get into a wobble when at highway speeds. At lower speeds, the steering is still very senstitive, but not as concerning as when at speed.

This may be a "one-off" issue with my machine, which I have an appointment next week to get checked out, or it may be a more widespread issue which has yet to fully mature as more riding experience with the 2013's unfold.

Bottom line: if you're getting serious about buying, or trading up to a 2013, I would recommend taking it out on the highway for a short test drive, and judge for yourself.

With that said, these are great machines. However, a re-program of the power steering may be necessary for the machine to reach it's ultimate purpose - that of a safe touring experience.

I'm not sure that the older models are any different. Sounds exactly like how my 2012 RT handles. You get used to it but it is disconcerting. The wobble will only come from overcontrolling. This is why it feels worse when near an 18 wheeler, you're having to make lots of small corrections due to the turbulent airflow. I wish there were a way to shut off the power to the steering for highway travel.
 
I have been following this thread closely as I am going to be taking ownership in March of a 2013 ST. I imagine it won't be anything like a motorcycle at highway speed with turbulent air. Those of us with 2 wheel experience in cross winds and going near tractor trailers are used to the bottom of the bike pulling out a bit, or getting blown out by the wind.

However with the spyder, much like a small car is easily effected on the highway. Then you throw in the fact that power steering wheels typically have a little bit of give to typically handle winds and turbulence/pulling from a tractor trailer. Now with handlebars as input, but the same effects as a car is going to be a unique experience. It will require fine tuning of the power steering, the rider becoming acclamated, and proper alignment. With the Spyder being so light weight, it is definitely going to require a lot of precision.
 
2013 RT's are different

I'm not sure that the older models are any different. Sounds exactly like how my 2012 RT handles. You get used to it but it is disconcerting. The wobble will only come from overcontrolling. This is why it feels worse when near an 18 wheeler, you're having to make lots of small corrections due to the turbulent airflow. I wish there were a way to shut off the power to the steering for highway travel.

Again, I'm not ruling out driver error, but I've driven 2012's and although they were "precise" they were not like my 2013 which has a host of geometry changes. I've upped my air pressures, can't change the shock setting (2013's are non adjustable), and I practice ultra light steering inputs - all to no avail.

I'm hopeful to know more next week when my appointment with the dealer comes up. I'll keep the group informed.

Ken
 
I posted this on another Thread but I felt the same way when I first rode the Spyder after coming off of a 2 wheel. I agree with others to get it checked at the dealer for alienment, but if the alienment is good then know that things will get better.

***The Spyder will feel very strange for the first couple of rides but you will quickly learn how to handle it. I have the smaller RS Spyder but when I first purchased it, it did wonder back and forth and it seemed very sensitive to the slightest ajustment. After I joined some Spyder Forums I found out about the Elka Shocks and purchased them. While waiting for the shocks to arrive (5 weeks) I followed the advice on the forums and tighten the front shocks up and added some tire air presure. This made a world of difference an even after my shocks arrived I decided to continue riding the Spyder with the stock shocks, one because I had gotten so use to the way it rode and two because the dealer wanted 200.00 bucks to install them. Many here put them on themselves but I do not have the tools or the strength. Eventually I will have the shocks put on or sell the shocks.

I think that the dealers would fair better to tighten the Spyder down on the showroom floors so that when people test drove them the riders would not feel that wondering sensation. I know when I first drove it I thought "no way". But after I test drove it for the third time I finally got the feel of the Spyder. ****
 
See thread in RT Shop Talk; RE: "Mikeszone2" posting.

I sincerely want to thank the SpyderLovers community for their excellent input regarding my 2013 RT and it's highway speed instability. Truely appreciated.

At the same time, please refer to the "RT Shop Talk" forum and review a thread started by MikesZone2, also dealing with the subject.

Mine goes into the shop in two days. I fully expect the normal "it's all in your head" response and have steeled myself for battle with the service department. However, Mike's experience and reporting of his issues will be of a great help to me. Ultimately BRP needs a better quality control on allignments and should consider reprogramming of their machine's speed sensitive calibration at highway speeds (the 2013's seem to be even more sensitive than previous models).

Again, thanks for your most valuable critique. This has proven to be a great community.

Ken
 
Long awaited apointment day finally came

After a long waitfor my alignment check appointment date, it came, and went, yesterday.

Took the machine in to my local Powersport dealer at 9:00am. I called for anupdate at about 4:00 pm. and left message on their recorder. Service guy called me at about 5:00 pm and said Icould pick up my RT.

What did they get done.....essentially NOTHING. Their response: they don'thave the alignment equipment (consisting of a factory hand held laser measuringdevice) to check the alignment. (like it was a big suprise that I was coming in for an appointment to check alignment on a 2013 RT, or like they couldn't have ordered the equipment when I made the appointment, or like they could have called me to postpone the appointment saying their equipment is on order - none of the above).

Ever wonder what is wrong with America? It was the mega franchise adoption of the popular management principal "doing more with less." IE: spending millions on facility, inventory, parts, leasehold improvements, etc, and then turning it all over to kids to run. The "Powersports" network seems to embody this concept. I could go on, but this is not the right forum for it.

I guess they'll call me whenever said testing part comes in. Until then, I ride at my life's risk, on a $30,000+ touring machine that is not safe to tour on. Oh, and on a 2013 model with much improved chassis geometry for a superior touring experience.

 
:shocked: :gaah: I'd call the shop and speak with the owner over this.
To have you come in for an appointment that they were clearly not prepared for; is inexcuseable!
DEMAND that they get whatever tool is lacking, and PRIORITIZE your next visit!
 
After a long waitfor my alignment check appointment date, it came, and went, yesterday.

Took the machine in to my local Powersport dealer at 9:00am. I called for anupdate at about 4:00 pm. and left message on their recorder. Service guy called me at about 5:00 pm and said Icould pick up my RT.

What did they get done.....essentially NOTHING. Their response: they don'thave the alignment equipment (consisting of a factory hand held laser measuringdevice) to check the alignment. (like it was a big suprise that I was coming in for an appointment to check alignment on a 2013 RT, or like they couldn't have ordered the equipment when I made the appointment, or like they could have called me to postpone the appointment saying their equipment is on order - none of the above).

Ever wonder what is wrong with America? It was the mega franchise adoption of the popular management principal "doing more with less." IE: spending millions on facility, inventory, parts, leasehold improvements, etc, and then turning it all over to kids to run. The "Powersports" network seems to embody this concept. I could go on, but this is not the right forum for it.

I guess they'll call me whenever said testing part comes in. Until then, I ride at my life's risk, on a $30,000+ touring machine that is not safe to tour on. Oh, and on a 2013 model with much improved chassis geometry for a superior touring experience.
Sad to hear. They could have run down to Menard's and bought the magnetic laser level and a length or aluminum angle to do the job. That's what my dealer did. I think what is the saddest about situations like these is that owners often have no alternative. Due to the sparcity of dealers, it is often impractical to travel hundreds of miles to another. Owners cannot speak with their wallets, by going somewhere else. I'd contact the dealership owner directly, especially if it is a large dealership, writing a letter of complaint. Believe it or not, most dealers are quite unaware of things like this, and often will work very hard to make ammends.
 
factory procedure to align 2013 RT (from dealer knowledge base)

I’m still waiting for my local dealer to acquire thetools/equipment to perform an alignment on a 2013 RT, but, in the meantime, I’vebeen able to acquire a copy of the factory’s recommended procedure to perform a2013 alignment. It’s a bulletin which comesfrom the Can Am “Knowledge Base” link which the dealers use to download thelatest information on trouble areas. I believe that if a 2013 exhibits high speed stability problems, the procedure will be performed under warranty. This procedure is unique to 2013 models and not for previous models. I'm not able to attach it to this posting (size too large) but if you would like a copy, please feel free to PM me. It may prove usefull to those dealers who are behind the curve on some 2013's that have handling issues. They obviously have access to it if they know where to look, but this is a useful "sneak preview."
 
I took my 2013ST Limited in Saturday to have alignment corrected. The service manager went out the night prior and purchased all the tools needed. Saturday morning I was the first one in at 0900 and out at 1130. Very pleased as this included my 600 mile tuneup. Best of luck to you.
 
A bullitin just came out RE: 2013 & allignment recomendations.

Looking around the site a bit today, it also appears that some 2013s were sent out with the wheels out of alignment, and BRP is working on something to fix this issue. This could be what you are experiencing as well.

You are correct. BRP just released a bullitin regarding new allignment procedures for the 2013 roadsters. I assume that they wouldn't have bothered with this if it wasn't a legitimate issue.

Ken
 
Serious Steering issue.

I have been a spyder rider and only a spyder rider since 2010. I started with a st and had a 2012 RT. Recently went to a 2013 RT, total difference. I was not going very fast but was on a curvey road I drive all the time. I really had issues keeping it in a turn to the left. Tires are aired up correctly. My husband said that you can adjust the front shocks by hand so am going to try that. If that doesn't help it's out of here. I loved the 12 but have had so many recall notices and other issues with this 13. My husband traded his because of all the issues.
 
I have been a spyder rider and only a spyder rider since 2010. I started with a st and had a 2012 RT. Recently went to a 2013 RT, total difference. I was not going very fast but was on a curvey road I drive all the time. I really had issues keeping it in a turn to the left. Tires are aired up correctly. My husband said that you can adjust the front shocks by hand so am going to try that. If that doesn't help it's out of here. I loved the 12 but have had so many recall notices and other issues with this 13. My husband traded his because of all the issues.

First, unless you have after market shocks on your 2013 RT, there is no adjustment. The stock shocks on the 2013 RT are not adjustable.

Something isn't right with your 2013 RT . . . what you describe is not normal. Are either of your heim joints broken? There was a service bulletin on them, replacing a bad batch . . . or something else wrong in the front end? You need to have it looked at. The 2013 RT should handle very well. Most do.
 
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