Intermittent raw gas smell at start-up and goes away after a few minutes.

[jjc54]

I did an oil change with fuel filter change on Aug 4th. On Sep 8th, after 22 rides after service and 1,425 miles, I got a very distinct raw fuel smell that persisted for a minute or 2 into the ride. After the ride, I pulled plastic and checked for leaks with the fuel pump energized. Everything was dry with no evidence of there ever being a drip. Happened again after another 10 rides and another 1,350 miles. Once again pulled plastic and found nothing. Bike is running great with no dropoff in MPG. Any thoughts on what to check next? Checked out the parts diagram and there is a bleed valve (?) and a rollover valve that looks like I need to remove more plastic to get to. The diagram also showed several more hoses, but I could not tell where they would hook up to. The bike has been a jewel up to now, but I don't relish becoming a human torch! Both times it was on the cooler side and less than 1/2 tank.

 

[Jackhartjr]

It would help to know what Spyder you have.
I had a 2013 RTL that all of a sudden lost power, got hot at my right foot, I parked it to load back on the trailer, it burned up!

 

[jjc54]

See signature line.

 

[BajaRon]

Regardless of year or model, the smell of raw gasoline needs to be addressed ASAP. While the 1330 is less susceptible compared to the 998 V-Twin, you still run the very real risk of burning your Spyder to the ground in a big hurry. The Tupperware captures those gasoline vapors within the very hot engine compartment. The perfect environment for ignition. It only takes one small spark and its all over but the getting off and moving away to watch helplessly.

It is commendable that you have attempted to find the source. But without positive resolution, you are exposing yourself and your ride to a very serious possibility.

With the hot environment under the Tupperware, a fine spray of fuel, especially under high pressure, will dry very quickly. Though it may be difficult to find, it is imperative that you do. I wish you a quick solution. It’s probably something very minor.

 

[jjc54]

Anybody know what the function of the bleed valve is? PN 709000443.

 

[Bfromla]

Regardless of year or model, the smell of raw gasoline needs to be addressed ASAP. While the 1330 is less susceptible compared to the 998 V-Twin, you still run the very real risk of burning your Spyder to the ground in a big hurry. The Tupperware captures those gasoline vapors within the very hot engine compartment. The perfect environment for ignition. It only takes one small spark and its all over but the getting off and moving away to watch helplessly.

It is commendable that you have attempted to find the source. But without positive resolution, you are exposing yourself and your ride to a very serious possibility.

With the hot environment under the Tupperware, a fine spray of fuel, especially under high pressure, will dry very quickly. Though it may be difficult to find, it is imperative that you do. I wish you a quick solution. It’s probably something very minor.

agree & op does not mention troubles with fuel cap (was known problem on some years- don’t know op has)

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Anybody know what the function of the bleed valve is? PN 709000443.

Yes. That's BRP's name for the purge valve in the evap system. Train yourself up on system operation if necessary, I'm not going to take up the space here. The valve is normally closed at startup and until you reach highway speed. So, if it is intermittently sticking closed on you, that would not cause your issue because it is normally closed at the beginning of a ride, anyway. If it is intermittently sticking open, that would cause all of the fuel fumes to be sucked into the engine as soon as it was started, as well as a hard starting issue. So, that wouldn't cause your fuel smell, either.

When you tun on the key - with the Kill Switch in RUN - the fuel pump only runs for 3 seconds. So, your statement about checking for leaks with the fuel pump energized is probably not valid. Three seconds isn't long enough to find a slow, intermittent leak, or fine spray. You'll need to run the engine and allow the fuel system to reach rated pressure - about 75# - or an extended period of time to get a good leak check.

The roll-over valve is integrated into the tank vent, and is exactly what the name implies. It has nothing to do with your issue because you are not rolled over.

After all of these miles and all of these years, you could have simply reached the end of useful life on your charcoal canister and it is time for replacement. As B said, check the large O-ring in your gas cap. And evaluate if the gas smell might coincide with topping off your tank.

 

[jjc54]

agree & op does not mention troubles with fuel cap (was known problem on some years- don’t know o

I saw some posts about cap not venting, but I think my year and model uses a non-vented one.

 

[jjc54]

Yes. That's BRP's name for the purge valve in the evap system. Train yourself up on system operation if necessary, I'm not going to take up the space here. The valve is normally closed at startup and until you reach highway speed. So, if it is intermittently sticking closed on you, that would not cause your issue because it is normally closed at the beginning of a ride, anyway. If it is intermittently sticking open, that would cause all of the fuel fumes to be sucked into the engine as soon as it was started, as well as a hard starting issue. So, that wouldn't cause your fuel smell, either.

When you tun on the key - with the Kill Switch in RUN - the fuel pump only runs for 3 seconds. So, your statement about checking for leaks with the fuel pump energized is probably not valid. Three seconds isn't long enough to find a slow, intermittent leak, or fine spray. You'll need to run the engine and allow the fuel system to reach rated pressure - about 75# - or an extended period of time to get a good leak check.

The roll-over valve is integrated into the tank vent, and is exactly what the name implies. It has nothing to do with your issue because you are not rolled over.

After all of these miles and all of these years, you could have simply reached the end of useful life on your charcoal canister and it is time for replacement. As B said, check the large O-ring in your gas cap. And evaluate if the gas smell might coincide with topping off your tank.

The 2 times it happened the tank was well under 1/2. The manual shows to replace the canister the whole back end needs to be removed. Is this the case? What are the consequences of operating with a wore out canister. Can this wait until down time? Any way to check the function of this canister?

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Any vehicle with an evap system (charcoal canister) has a non-venting gas cap. Or at least, non-venting from the inside out. If it was vented, that would bypass and defeat the whole purpose of having the evap system in the first place. The Spyder gas cap recall was for caps that had an O-ring seal problem that allowed for venting/leakage from the inside out, thus bypassing the system and causing the smell and a hazardous condition. That’s why you were advised to check the O-ring inside your cap. Just turn it over and inspect it.

 

[Jackhartjr]

See signature line.

What am I missing, I am not seeing a signature line sir?

 

[Sundown]

In his profile under “About” it lists 2016 Spyder RT Limited SE6

Didn’t know that till now when I started looking