installing seat

[wmh9680]

Well I was installing my new stock seat (removed the Ultimate Tall Boy which was comfortable to sit on but did not fit either one of us) and found it a pain to get the 2 bolts and nuts in the rear to mate up. I got one but could not get the drivers side (what does that mean on a bike) to mate. Anyone have any tips on this? Have a great day. Thanks, Mike

 

[Judge64]

I just replaced my stock seat with the heated comfort seat last week. There is not a lot of room to work to say the least.

I used a flexible spring claw pick-up tool. I used it to grab the caged nut and then position it in place while I used my other hand to start the bolt into the nut. A lot of light helps as well so you can see the end of the bolt lining up with the caged nut.

 

[wmh9680]

I also installed an aftermarket seat strut (mine did not have one when I got it) that has more psi in it and it seems to push the seat a little farther forward. It is the one referenced on the forum (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?89111-Seat-gas-strut&highlight=seat+strut).
Thanks,Mike

 

[Bob Denman]

If you've already got one in: try using some Duct-Tape to hold the nut in place, and then run the bolt through to it. :thumbup:
(It worked for me...)

 

[jcthorne]

You did remove the passenger back rest to give you access to the bolts right?

 

[pegasus1300]

+1 on remove the backrest and be sure to put a rag or something in the black hole for when you drop a nut or bolt.

 

[Bob Denman]

There's actually at least THREE spots to cover up (If you don't want to lose stuff...)
All three sections around where the seat bolts up have designed to be great places for eating parts and tools
Plus, you've also got the normal cast of characters that are directly under where the seat ends up sitting...
:lecturef_smilie: Proceed with caution!

 

[wmh9680]

Thanks everyone. I put some white lithium grease on the nut so it wouldn't slide out and covered all 3 holes at the back (when I removed the seat I lost a bolt in the side hole in the middle--I just lost my GPS cover in the crack by the handlebars but was able to fish it out--one time while putting cams in my Virago I dropped a nut into the cylinder--this could go on and on and on). Yes I did remove the passenger seat back. I have small hands and it is still hard to do. I thought about sliding a small allen wrench or screwdriver into the hole to line it up bit it would probably fall into never-never land also. I also installed the ShowChrome Passenger Armrests and they rub up against the seat when you raise and lower it. Thanks, Mike

 

[Motorcycledave]

I AM SURE .....

I am sure after owning, riding, servicing and in general
working on the Can Am Spyders all models so far....
I am sure they were designed by people who do NOT ever
or have ever had to work on any type of machines with
2 or more wheels. They seem like they have been conceived
by committee, people who are not mechanics or techs,
everything on them is hard to get to, just try replacing the
tail light bulbs on an RS some time, or changing out a seat
on an RT... everything takes more time than it should.
I have owned, ridden and repaired/serviced over 40 motorcycles
in my life and none of them inc. Goldwings are as hard to service.
All I can say is take your time don't try rushing things and be careful
not to loose nuts and bolts by dropping them in the holes under the seat
The Spyder seems to swallow them up never to be seen again..
Ride Safe
Dave

 

[5-0 spyder]

Installing seat

Along with removing the passenger backrest, covering the holes under the seat with blue painters tape, I put a small piece of tape over the nut and put a piece of wood against the frame to hold the seat up higher. I also used a rotating ratchet which made turning the bolt a lot quicker and easier.

 

[Judge64]

You did remove the passenger back rest to give you access to the bolts right?

I was able to do it without taking off the passenger backrest. It was not that difficult using a spring loaded grab tool as I said.

 

[BigGuy66]

About losing those small tools in the black holes... A tip I got was to tape some fishing line to one end - used the tip and saved an Allen wrench.


Ryde, eat, sleep... Repeat

 

[Bob Denman]

About losing those small tools in the black holes... A tip I got was to tape some fishing line to one end - used the tip and saved an Allen wrench.


Ryde, eat, sleep... Repeat

That's much easier than getting eight football players to turn your Spyder upside-down, and shake the pudding out of it! :thumbup:

 

[jegarh]

Well I was installing my new stock seat (removed the Ultimate Tall Boy which was comfortable to sit on but did not fit either one of us) and found it a pain to get the 2 bolts and nuts in the rear to mate up. I got one but could not get the drivers side (what does that mean on a bike) to mate. Anyone have any tips on this? Have a great day. Thanks, Mike

I just finished installing the Show Chrome passenger arm rests. First I removed the passenger back rest. Then I stuffed rags into all of the black holes under the whole seat. I then disconnected the seat end of the gas strut. I removed the bolts that the seat hinges on. After installing the arm rests I smeared a little grease on the spacers so they would stay put. I slid one of the square nuts into it's slot and lined it up with a phillips screw driver. Holding the nut in place with one hand I passed the bolt through and got it started. I did the same thing on the other side and then I amused myself with a small box end wrench tightening the bolts 1/16th turn at a time. Needless to say I amused myself for quite a while. I didn't waste that time because I was able to figure out how to set the tension on the arms so they wouldn't swing out in a sharp turn dumping my first wife. It was all worth while because she likes them. :2thumbs:

 

[trikerbiker645]

I got tired of the bs to remove or re-install mine so I just got 2 long bolts drilled a small hole in them for a spring clip, reach in behind seat or remove backrest as described previously if you like then pull the spring pins, pull the bolts and off in 5 min or less.Also don't forget to tape the holes to neverland as well. I did also have to drill a hole on each side through the plastic piece that the nut tightens up against and put a pin in it as a stop to keep the bolt from angling or turning or moving toward the seat [tightening the nut stops that on the original way] works great!

 

[Bob Denman]

:clap::nopic: :2thumbs:
This sounds pretty interesting!

 

[JIM EVANS]

While the sear is on I silicone the nuts in place. Then wrap duct tape over the open edge and press it around the nut. Should keep it I. Lose

 

[cmar157]

Is it OK to leave the tape, or whatever you use to cover the holes, on all the time? Are they air vents or just annoying holes that made me curse and jump up and down when I lost a nut?

 

[Roadster Renovations]

If you've already got one in: try using some Duct-Tape to hold the nut in place, and then run the bolt through to it. :thumbup:
(It worked for me...)

Exactly what I do and......if/when you remove it the nuts stay in place and help hold the spacers.

 

[PW2013STL]

The first time I changed seats I did not remove the passenger back rest nor did I cover the holes in the back. After dropping one bolt and a wrench that both found those open holes I fished the bolt and wrench out with a magnet and blue taped up the three holes. I left the tape in place and it has stayed there through 6 seat changes.
For the nuts I slide a plastic cable tie under each nut and that holds it in place. I also now remove the back rest to provide more room to work.