Installed my new Elka Stage one Shocks

[bluestratos]

Well got them in the mail and installed immediately. The left (viewed from seat) was more challanging as it has to be done mostly by touch for the top bolt. I used standard 15 socket on a standard 3/8" drive ratchet on the nut and a wrench to hold the head. Working one side at a time it took less than an hour. The manual that comes with them does not even show this style shock but speaks generally about the different settings. The instructions said to scew the rebound adjustment all the way to fastest but after I got them installed I realized the tag that was on the shock opened up and guess what, it contradicted the manual and said to leave the rebound at the factory settings to begin with. I did not count so I started at 15 out of 50.

I took it for a ride and have to be honest, very little difference in comparision to my 2011 shocks. I tried them from 25-75 mph, hit bumps, centerline reflector bumps, tight corners at speed and we had a good wind last evening so I think I got a good feel for that as well. It did seem to react a bit less in the cross wind on the highway and it corned a bit flatter when I pushed it through the corners. It raised the front end... a lot! My head lights were shinning 3" or more higher on the gararge door than before so I had to lower them. I am not sure I like the front being so high, it will help on speed bumps for sure but I think it changes the stance too much. (I did not touch the ride height, it was left per the factory preset).

So wow factor, 2-3 out of 10. Looks, about 5/10.


Now here is the part I am worried about. The manual says to send the shocks in to Elka once a year to change the oil and some seals. Do any of you follow this requirement?

Regards,

Randy

 

[MotoSpyder2]

Thanks Randy,

I find your feedback insightful.

My Elka's are sitting on the workbench and I planned to complete the installation this weekend. I appreciate your step-by-step experience. Thank you.

I'm hopeful that someone, or even John, could comment constructively with their feedback to your real-world ride. I hadn’t heard of the higher ride before….or the yearly service requirements. I wonder if others follow this guidance.

opcorn:

 

[Trooper]

Well got them in the mail and installed immediately. The left (viewed from seat) was more challanging as it has to be done mostly by touch for the top bolt. I used standard 15 socket on a standard 3/8" drive ratchet on the nut and a wrench to hold the head. Working one side at a time it took less than an hour. The manual that comes with them does not even show this style shock but speaks generally about the different settings. The instructions said to scew the rebound adjustment all the way to fastest but after I got them installed I realized the tag that was on the shock opened up and guess what, it contradicted the manual and said to leave the rebound at the factory settings to begin with. I did not count so I started at 15 out of 50.

I took it for a ride and have to be honest, very little difference in comparision to my 2011 shocks. I tried them from 25-75 mph, hit bumps, centerline reflector bumps, tight corners at speed and we had a good wind last evening so I think I got a good feel for that as well. It did seem to react a bit less in the cross wind on the highway and it corned a bit flatter when I pushed it through the corners. It raised the front end... a lot! My head lights were shinning 3" or more higher on the gararge door than before so I had to lower them. I am not sure I like the front being so high, it will help on speed bumps for sure but I think it changes the stance too much. (I did not touch the ride height, it was left per the factory preset).

So wow factor, 2-3 out of 10. Looks, about 5/10.


Now here is the part I am worried about. The manual says to send the shocks in to Elka once a year to change the oil and some seals. Do any of you follow this requirement?

Regards,

Randy

Hello Randy,

Thank you for the feedback. First things first, you DO NOT need to get these shocks rebuilt every year. Unfortunately our owners manual is more geared to our ATV customer base who put their shocks through much more abuse than any Spyder rider so that part in the booklet does not apply to you. The Elka on my motorcycle has been working hard for 3 1/2 years now and has never been touched...and my oil changes are free.

As for the front end, there are two main reasons as to why this is the case.

1. The stiffer springs we use over stock, while providing more support for the vehicle for turning and stability, raises the vehicle about 2 inches in the front, so adjusting the headlights is recommended if needed.

2. With the stock shocks, the front a-arms actually drop below the wheel ball joint which makes it soft and unstable. By raising the front, the a-arms slopes upwards above the ball joint providing better cornering stability, like your typical ATV setup.


Many people have found that 25 clicks from fully open to be the "sweet spot" so you may want to try that to get better bump compliance from the hydralics.

Last but not least, I can be reached at 1-800-557-0552 ext 257 if you have any questions. Its what I get paid for.

Regards,

John @ Elka

 

[bluestratos]

Thanks John, I was thinking that was the case regarding the rebuilt since the manual really did not show my shocks or my bike. I will try the 25 click setting to see if that improve the ride some more. That must have been about it was set before I changed it. And good to know about the ride hieght change. That must be why it corners flatter.

Regards,

Randy

 

[bluestratos]

Well had a good chance to check the shocks outdoay so I took the Chuckanut, a twisty narrow road that runs along the coast. Much better and cross wind reaction has all but disappered. I took the freeway on the way back and smooth riding and I never realized there was such a strong cross wind untill I hit the rest stop.

Now if only BRP could fix all of my engine issues I would be a happy camper, lol...but that is for another post.

 

[kevorama]

Randy, mine are set at 25 and when it's just me on the bike it handles like a dream and takes corners much better. Also, truckers and side winds aren't near as bad as with the stock shocks. I find it a little easier on the arms, too. When the wife is on with me, the ride softens up a bit which is nice for some easy riding, but still retains stability.

 

[CyncySpyder]

Hey John, any advice for Teds Red Sleds elkas when towing our Moto-Mate Camper

We have Lens' (Cowtown) #1of5 2011 SpyderFest Edition RT-S with the SE5 & push-button rear air suspension. Do you have any suggestions for our setup overall. We have about 24,000 miles in about 11months, and the Spyder is our daily driver, ONLY mode of transportation (& therapy/sanity) & its just me 20% of the time, Teddy & I 70% of the time, & both us & towing a 400 pound camper the same size as the Spyder the rest of the time. The camper has only torsion (none) suspension & is rather sensitive to proper loading, but just curious if you have any suggestions for us :bowdown::thumbup:

 

[bluestratos]

I set mine to 25 today as well, it works well for me

 

[AndyIsRiding]

2 up I have it at 20, by myself I set it to 17 or 18

 

[Trooper]

We have Lens' (Cowtown) #1of5 2011 SpyderFest Edition RT-S with the SE5 & push-button rear air suspension. Do you have any suggestions for our setup overall. We have about 24,000 miles in about 11months, and the Spyder is our daily driver, ONLY mode of transportation (& therapy/sanity) & its just me 20% of the time, Teddy & I 70% of the time, & both us & towing a 400 pound camper the same size as the Spyder the rest of the time. The camper has only torsion (none) suspension & is rather sensitive to proper loading, but just curious if you have any suggestions for us :bowdown::thumbup:

Hello Sir,

The trailer weight will be more critical for the rear setup however the added tongue weight can be counteracted by the rear air bag, just as you would if you were to add an adult passenger in the rear. Try and make sure that the majority of the weight in the trailor is centered above the axle as much as possible to maintain the geometry of the Spyder in terms of handling.

Last but not least, enjoy the ride to Missourri, and I will see you and Teddy in a month or so !!


:thumbup:

 

[FrankPa]

Hey Cyncy

Since Teddy rides 70% of the time, don't forget to set them up to handle his increased weight on the back!

:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

 

[NancysToy]

Hello Sir,

The trailer weight will be more critical for the rear setup however the added tongue weight can be counteracted by the rear air bag, just as you would if you were to add an adult passenger in the rear. Try and make sure that the majority of the weight in the trailor is centered above the axle as much as possible to maintain the geometry of the Spyder in terms of handling.

Last but not least, enjoy the ride to Missourri, and I will see you and Teddy in a month or so !!


:thumbup:

On a Spyder with a swingarm mounted hitch, the trailer tongue weight is not carried by the frame, so the airbag setting and the shock setup would have no bearing on the unsprung weight increase. BTW, the airbag setting does not have to be increased for a passenger or cargo on an RTS or LTD. It is automatic, and maintains the same ride height no matter what the load.

Good reminder about loading the trailer carefully, and getting the majority of weight near the axle, but it won't affect the Spyder geometry.

 

[pro10is]

...The stiffer springs we use over stock, while providing more support for the vehicle for turning and stability, raises the vehicle about 2 inches in the front, so adjusting the headlights is recommended if needed.

I would think raising the center of gravity (mass) would have a detrimental effect on handling and lateral traction. In the case of the Spyder a 2-3 inch increase in front end height is quite significant. The Spyder is a roadster not an ATV. Adding that much additional height and raising the CoM is quite a trade off for increased spring stiffness, not to mention any effect on the tuned VSS. Performance roadsters are painstakingly designed to be as low to the ground as possible to place the center of mass as low as possible to reduce load/weight transfer and maximize total available traction. In the case of a three wheeled roadster vs a four wheeled, the total available traction is even more critical (hence the need for a VSS).

You're trying to reduce lateral load transfer by increasing spring stiffness but then reducing the overall effectiveness by raising the CoM. Isn't there a better way to add a stiffer spring rate without altering the precisely engineered chassis geometry? Perhaps the use of a progressive spring? Adding height, especially to the front, should be avoided by all possible means on a roadster.

 

[bluestratos]

I drove it hard through the twistties last weekend and I have say , the added hieght did nothing negative but I am now able to cross the speed bumps lol. Now if I could get it up to 150 mph (mine max's out below 120) I could check to see if the front end becomes light but up to 80 and no problems even in a cross wind.

Regards

Randy

 

[Sarge707]

Since I have my Elka Rebound at 22-24 (Previously were 15 Clicks tooo Harsh!!!) AND
My New DPS its Like "Night and Day," I feel like I got a New Light Handling, Extremely Smooth ride over
Very Bumpy Weathered Back roads and Extreme highway stability..
:yes:
The Counteract Beads in the New front tires work Great to help handling !nojoke