• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Installed headlights tody

:yikes:..." ampacity " ... what the heck is that, ??....sorry I don't speak "Klingon"
It is an electrical term that you should know before you start playing with wired devices.:roflblack:

Ampacity is a portmanteau for ampere capacity defined by National Electrical Safety Codes, in some North American countries. Ampacity is defined as the maximum amount of electric current a conductor or device can carry before sustaining immediate or progressive deterioration.
 
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AMPACITY !!!!!

It is an electrical term that you should know before you start playing with wired devices.:roflblack:

Ampacity is a portmanteau for ampere capacity defined by National Electrical Safety Codes, in some North American countries. Ampacity is defined as the maximum amount of electric current a conductor or device can carry before sustaining immediate or progressive deterioration.

:coffee:.....Actually I knew exactly what you were talking about .....I was just playing with you :chill: :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:................ But I'm sure you enlightened 99.9 % of the rest of the Spyder community and that's a good thing, because we all need to know these things :agree:
 
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:coffee:.....Actually I knew exactly what you were talking about .....I was just playing with you :chill: :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:................ But I'm sure you enlightened 99.9 % of the rest of the Spyder community and that's a good thing, because we all need to know these things :agree:
But what's really interesting, and what one has to watch out for, is how much ampacity can be adjusted based on the physical installation. That means ambient temperature, enclosure, bundling, etc. I once deliberately increased the circuit breaker size on the wire serving the electric heating elements in the house furnace based on the fact that the only time the heater would be on was when the weather was cold, the wire ran through the vented attic, and the cold temperature ampacity was more than adequate.
 
Exactly which Amazon product are these? When I looked Amazon had several different brands of 9005 LEDs with copper braid heat sinks. They are not all the same. Some have Cree LEDs and others Phillips LEDs. The Xenon Depot kits have Phillips.

I just spent a bunch of time trying to find information on Cree vs Phillips LEDs. I came up with no meaningful information as to longevity comparisons. In fact there isn't much substantive comparative info between the two at all, except in the arena of home lighting. Interestingly, Xenon Depot shows a comparison of the light pattern of the two, but it's of the bare bulb, which is meaningless. It would be nice to see how the light pattern of the two compare when installed in actual headlamps. I found one where a guy compared Cree vs Phillips H11 bulbs in an Eagle Eye headlamp unit in a BMW. It looked like the only real difference was a sharper cutoff of the top edge of the beam with Cree.

All that prompts me to ask if there is ANY criteria to base a buying decision on more important than price? I'm referring only to braid cooled lamps.

I did a lot of research and decided on the Phillips chip, price was not an issue, just my choice. I had a link to them but took it down when the 9005's sold out, here it is again but the 9005's are gone.http://www.amazon.com/PartsSquare-L...ps+luxeon+chip+led+headlights+by+parts+square
 
I did a lot of research and decided on the Phillips chip, price was not an issue, just my choice. I had a link to them but took it down when the 9005's sold out, here it is again but the 9005's are gone.http://www.amazon.com/PartsSquare-L...ps+luxeon+chip+led+headlights+by+parts+square

This vendor appears to have the 9005 at $89+change:
http://www.amazon.com/Neverland-40w...ED+-+5000+Lumen+-+Copper+Belt+Heatsink+-+9005

Keep this thread fresh if someone finds the real McCoy for that earlier 50 buck steal.
 
NO, NO, NO

This vendor appears to have the 9005 at $89+change:
http://www.amazon.com/Neverland-40w...ED+-+5000+Lumen+-+Copper+Belt+Heatsink+-+9005

Keep this thread fresh if someone finds the real McCoy for that earlier 50 buck steal.

:gaah:......You need to read the AD.....you were looking at an H1 size......not the 9005...............and the 9005 has a CREE chip ...not the Phillips ..............it's the details that count :lecturef_smilie: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:.......Mike
 
Took a 50 mile test ride this evening, the oem's are yellowish and the led's are white. Regarding width span ,they are the same , based on how the housing is designed. But the led lights are brighter and clearer. The road markings and signs are clearly more visible.
Think of it this way, the older cars had yellow tint and the newer ones has that bluish white.
My brother says when I turn on my high beam, it looks like a Boeing jet liner behind him.
With one negative note, it is a little hard to stuff in housing and don't block shutter.
 
Mike's right............

:gaah:......You need to read the AD.....you were looking at an H1 size......not the 9005...............and the 9005 has a CREE chip ...not the Phillips ..............it's the details that count :lecturef_smilie: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:.......Mike

Mike:

Thanks for catching that important detail. That seller has a mix of CREE and Phillips LED's in his ad. I had searched on the term "Philips Luxeon" which turned up this mix of both the bad and the good LED's. Lesson learned.

Pete
[h=1][/h]
 
Happy hunting

jcthorne:

Thanks for your quick response and correction; I was already on my way to Amazon to find the bargain basement $55 option. You helped me put the brakes on and kept me from making an unpleasant mistake!

It would be helpful to all of us forum followers if when an item is mentioned, we could be as specific as possible, with mfgr and/or PN or precise item name, as opposed to a vague reference like "those H4's someone has on eBay." ....or LED's or HID's or whatever we're talking about.

I hate to say it but you should have stayed off the brake on this deal. I think it's going to be hard to find the good ones at that price again, good luck though.
 
Those with the fan and heat sink on the back will not fit the Spyders.

JC, that may or may not be true. I was concerned about the installation on my KTM also. When I recv'd the light assembly I was stoked to see how small the entire unit is. On the KTM, since it is an AC system, I also needed the little black box. If it were DC that black box is not needed.

I hear what you are saying that it may not fit, I am more of the opinion it may be tight, or if the rear cover were modded with a hole saw, these could be an incredible light system.

For the KTM, I have one LED "bulb", 3600 lumens and it is stupid illumination.

On a side note, we run the optional BRP HID headlights in our 2014 RTs. BRP stated they were applicable to model years up to 2012. Well the headlights themselves were an easy exact fit. The concern came down to the ballast mounting brackets. Suffice to say, and I know not everyone has access to tools or ability to make upgrades themselves, but these HIDs are a solid tie for best mod with the Corbin seat.

At some point, I would like to hook up with a couple of local riders and find a dark road to compare. HID vs LED vs OEM.

BTW, if I ever burn out one of my amber fog lights, I may try the forced cooled LEDs in the fog location. I cant imagine how bright 7200 lumens as driving lights will be.


PK
 
Been there and done that trying several of that design. And short of cutting up the bike and leaving things exposed to rain that should not be, they do not fit.

Also, the philips LEDs sold by XenonDepot (and now by others) are the first LEDs I tried that actually have a correct beam pattern to work at all well in a projector housing. 7200 lumens is useless if it never makes it out of the housing.

I have also already done the Stock vs HID vs LED comparison on the Spyder and posted pics of them. The HID is the brightest by a small margin. LED (Phillips not Cree) and HID are both much brighter and whiter than stock.

Suit yourself, I was trying to save folks the aggravation of doing the job several times and just go straight to what fits properly and WORKS. I already did the trial and error, and error, and error. I am good at erroring.
 
JC, any possibility you can explain, with diagrams maybe, what it is w/ the Phillips light pattern that makes it better than Cree? It just doesn't seem that a sharper edge would make much difference.
 
CREE VS PHILLIPS

JC, any possibility you can explain, with diagrams maybe, what it is w/ the Phillips light pattern that makes it better than Cree? It just doesn't seem that a sharper edge would make much difference.

It may not be this at all.......I have seen close-up pics of the ACTUAL chips and they are different...they don't look the same........this may have an effect on the beam shape they create......The other possibility is how far the CHIP is away from the base...............just some thoughts. I'm waiting for mine to be delivered from Amazon :yes:........Mike :thumbup:
 
It may not be this at all.......I have seen close-up pics of the ACTUAL chips and they are different...they don't look the same........this may have an effect on the beam shape they create......The other possibility is how far the CHIP is away from the base...............just some thoughts. I'm waiting for mine to be delivered from Amazon :yes:........Mike :thumbup:
You are correct Mike. Its not the edge of the light pattern, its the direction the light is sent and the focal length and dispersion pattern that matters. The Cree works fine in open element housings. In projector housings that style chip sends so much of its available output were it never makes it out of the housing lens. End result is headlights that while white, have very little light throw.
 
You are correct Mike. Its not the edge of the light pattern, its the direction the light is sent and the focal length and dispersion pattern that matters. The Cree works fine in open element housings. In projector housings that style chip sends so much of its available output were it never makes it out of the housing lens. End result is headlights that while white, have very little light throw.
Interesting. You sure can't tell that from just looking at all the pictures and illustrations in the product info pages! :banghead:
 
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