• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

in the middle of my first oil change ????

bmwlarry

New member
I was wondering exactly what size the tools you need. I'm sure I have the sizes but do not want to take a chance of a buggered up allen head. The one already looks slightly rounded by the dealer at the last oil change.
 
I was wondering exactly what size the tools you need. I'm sure I have the sizes but do not want to take a chance of a buggered up allen head. The one already looks slightly rounded by the dealer at the last oil change.

I think the drain plugs are 6mm and the oil filter cap is 5mm. I changed my oil a little while back for the first time and those numbers seem to be sticking in my head. This was on a RT S manuel trans.
Note: the drain plug on the oil tank was extreamly tight!!! It was way over spec. I didn't think it was going to break loose but it finally did.
 
I think the drain plugs are 6mm and the oil filter cap is 5mm. I changed my oil a little while back for the first time and those numbers seem to be sticking in my head. This was on a RT S manuel trans.
Note: the drain plug on the oil tank was extreamly tight!!! It was way over spec. I didn't think it was going to break loose but it finally did.

Correct 6mm Allen plugs, 5mm filter caps. My drain plugs were INSANELY tight. You have to use a socket style of Allen wrench. A curved Allen wrench won't do it without a cheater bar.
 
Z

Well, it's all done and all went well. I drilled the hole that Lamont wrote about but with sealboards it's hard to get it right. I removed the lower panel and will leave it off. It was actually fun figuring out the dis and reassembly! It's nice to know I saved $$$. Now, I have 3700 miles on it, so what else should be done? I had it in last week and had all the service bullitens brought up to date.
 
I did use the new metal filters so I am good for 4500 miles. For anyone with even a little mechanical abilities, don't be afraid to try and do it yourself! It cost me about $75 for oil and filters. I used the brp synthetic blend because the dealer said I should not use full synthetic until after 3500miles. When at the dealership last week I bought two oil change kits for $144 using my DamTour discount.
Dont be afraid, give it a try!
 
I did use the new metal filters so I am good for 4500 miles. For anyone with even a little mechanical abilities, don't be afraid to try and do it yourself! It cost me about $75 for oil and filters. I used the brp synthetic blend because the dealer said I should not use full synthetic until after 3500miles. When at the dealership last week I bought two oil change kits for $144 using my DamTour discount.
Dont be afraid, give it a try!

:hun:
"Blend" can mean mean nearly nothing...like 1% synthetic.

My dealer put full synthetic in it at the 600 mi service and I've been running it ever since (28k miles using Amsoil). My Spyder runs beautifully!

Oh no...I think I just started another (the million-teenth) oil debate!!! ;)
 
Correct 6mm Allen plugs, 5mm filter caps. My drain plugs were INSANELY tight. You have to use a socket style of Allen wrench. A curved Allen wrench won't do it without a cheater bar.

Ditto on the "socket style" Allen wrench! There was no reason for mine to be as tight as it was. I torqed them back to spec.
 
Ditto on the "socket style" Allen wrench! There was no reason for mine to be as tight as it was. I torqed them back to spec.
It is not necessarily overtightening that causes these to be so tight. Any steel fastener screwed into an alloy case will tend to get tighter, just due to the different rates of expansion. That is why screws put in by hand into a Honda case take an impact driver to remove later. Second, the crush washer will cause the torque used to remove the plug to be more than what was used to install it. The metal of the crush washer compresses when torqued, and presses back against the plug. As it work hardens from compression and heating, it fails to "give" as much on removal, making removal harder. The use of the proper tool (hex socket bit) is a must!
 
I have an early model RS and interestingly enough, my drain plugs are torx, not an Allen. It's the Factory drain plug and I have no explanation for it. If you use an Allen on a Torx it may work but it may also give you a round hole.
 
I have an early model RS and interestingly enough, my drain plugs are torx, not an Allen. It's the Factory drain plug and I have no explanation for it. If you use an Allen on a Torx it may work but it may also give you a round hole.

Well, my first plug looked like it was torx after I took it out with a torx socket :yikes: t40 to be exact.


you must have looked at the picture? :roflblack:

I saw those plugs advertised on ebay but didn't hear anything about them from the crowd here so I didn't wanna take a chance on them :dontknow:
 
I switched to the Gold Plug about 30,000 miles ago with no problems. I don't know if this change is really needed I think the original would be fine with the proper Allen socket and a good torque wrench. The Gold plug for the oil tank has a magnet and I don't think the original did, but I don't know that it is important. :D
 
I switched to the Gold Plug about 30,000 miles ago with no problems. I don't know if this change is really needed I think the original would be fine with the proper Allen socket and a good torque wrench. The Gold plug for the oil tank has a magnet and I don't think the original did, but I don't know that it is important. :D

I figured it was better staying with the original because you get the new crush rings with each kit for the drain plugs.
The factory motor drain has a magnet, the oil tank plug does not
 
I switched to the Gold Plug about 30,000 miles ago with no problems. I don't know if this change is really needed I think the original would be fine with the proper Allen socket and a good torque wrench. The Gold plug for the oil tank has a magnet and I don't think the original did, but I don't know that it is important. :D
My oil tank Gold Plug had a bit of stuff on the magnet my last oil change so it was nice having it there.
 
Back
Top