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Idle RPM

dvmdf

Member
Hi Gang
2008 SE5 with 10,000 miles, engine started to miss 2 mo ago, got significantly worse last weekend, idle drops to 900 rpm, never stalled and always recovers to normal 1350 t0 1450, sounds like one cylinder is missing, perfect at 2000 rpm and higher, no codes, no limp mode. Usually does not happen when cold. Spark plugs, wires? The dealer wants $165 for diagnostics, I am thinking may be just have them replace the plugs and wires??
Thank you for your opinions
 
Quite likely plug wires. I'd replace the plugs and wires, and re-evaluate. You might want to consider a set of BajaRon's plug wires. They are better quality than the stock wires...and cheaper.
 
Quite likely plug wires. I'd replace the plugs and wires, and re-evaluate. You might want to consider a set of BajaRon's plug wires. They are better quality than the stock wires...and cheaper.
Thank you so much, Scotty
We are blessed to have you on this forum!
 
Ok, the dealer wants to charge 2.5 hrs of labor for the plugs and wires. Is that reasonable or they are BS ing me?
 
Ok, the dealer wants to charge 2.5 hrs of labor for the plugs and wires. Is that reasonable or they are BS ing me?

I can't think how I could make that job last 2.5 hours. Maybe .5 hours or one hour max if they didn't know the tricks.
 
Well there's the coffee run partway through the job... the phone call to the Missus/Girlfrined... and the pretty girl in the showroom with questions...
 
Worth showing again

Here is what Accel says about the 300+ Race Wire I am using in these ignition wire sets.

ACCEL 8.8 300+ RACE WIRE

"State of the art Ferro-Spiral Wound Magnetic Suppression core eliminates electrical “leakage” or RFI/EMI interference that interrupts electronic ignitions."

I know Accel makes good stuff but I still wanted to see how these wires would do in the real world on our Spyders. Especially since the ECM (computer) on the Spyder is so sensitive to electrical interference. The best wires in the world are no good to us if they mess with the computer.

The Ferro wound core is specifically designed to shield more RFI/EMI than the standard carbon core OEM wires that come on the Spyder so I thought this was a real plus for our Spyders. Still, I didn't want to take Accel's word for it so we put them to the test. We ran these wires on 2 Spyders (1- RT & 1- RS) for over 4,000 combined miles with no interference issues, before I started selling them.

I have no way to actually test the amount of electrical interference these Custom wire sets produce, but I think it safe to say that you'll experience less electrical interference with this custom wire set than you would with the stock set.

Here are some diagrams of the differences in wire construction between OEM and my Custom Wire set. Most of the good stuff is inside where you can't see it but where it does the most good.

ACCEL 300+ FERRO-SPIRAL™ RACE WIRE
THANKS BajaRon
 
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It doesn't take much loss of the insulation for spark wire to arc, especially if it's a crack as opposed to a spot that's being scrubbed off at a contact point. Shielded wire is a good thing when in close proximity of electronics and signal wire(which it usually shielded itself). It can contain voltage or signal or protect itself from stray voltage or signal transmission. The culprit is usually AC power related(something like a DC motor can generate this when running), which ever "wave" of power the AC is in(sign/square/saw), it can have a core-less transformer effect and jump wires.
In your case, the conductivity of the wire/wires may just be failing, does good when the field is "charged" more frequently(higher RPM). Does it run better when cold, everything on the machine is cold and tight? With the stretch of heat, conductivity will fail more easily. It's an oven up under that plastic in not time at all.
 
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It doesn't take much loss of the insulation for spark wire to arc, especially if it's a crack as opposed to a spot that's being scrubbed off at a contact point. Shielded wire is a good thing when in close proximity of electronics and signal wire(which it usually shielded itself). It can contain voltage or signal or protect itself from stray voltage or signal transmission. The culprit is usually AC power related(something like a DC motor can generate this when running), which ever "wave" of power the AC is in(sign/square/saw), it can have a core-less transformer effect and jump wires.
In your case, the conductivity of the wire/wires may just be failing, does good when the field is "charged" more frequently(higher RPM). Does it run better when cold, everything on the machine is cold and tight? With the stretch of heat, conductivity will fail more easily. It's an oven up under that plastic in not time at all.
Yes, things are Ok when the Spyder is cold!
Thank you everybody for pitching in. I will try to twist dealers arm to 1/2 to 1 hr labor.
 
I can't think how I could make that job last 2.5 hours. Maybe .5 hours or one hour max if they didn't know the tricks.

So when will you be making a video to show us the "tricks" of getting to that front spark plug on the RT?:yes:

I've go my 12,000 service coming up in the spring and sure could use the info.:bowdown:
 
So when will you be making a video to show us the "tricks" of getting to that front spark plug on the RT?:yes:

I've go my 12,000 service coming up in the spring and sure could use the info.:bowdown:

I still need to put a set of my new customer spark plug wires on my own Spyder. Everytime I get a few sets ahead, someone buys them before I can do it! I'm going to take the Lamontster School of Front Spark Plug Changing when I do. We may video it for all to see! I could be a movie star! Yeah Baby! :yes:
 
I still need to put a set of my new customer spark plug wires on my own Spyder. Everytime I get a few sets ahead, someone buys them before I can do it! I'm going to take the Lamontster School of Front Spark Plug Changing when I do. We may video it for all to see! I could be a movie star! Yeah Baby! :yes:
Need to make the video on an RT...that's the one that is challenging.
 
Hi Gang
2008 SE5 with 10,000 miles, engine started to miss 2 mo ago, got significantly worse last weekend, idle drops to 900 rpm, never stalled and always recovers to normal 1350 t0 1450, sounds like one cylinder is missing, perfect at 2000 rpm and higher, no codes, no limp mode. Usually does not happen when cold. Spark plugs, wires? The dealer wants $165 for diagnostics, I am thinking may be just have them replace the plugs and wires??
Thank you for your opinions
if the spk plug wires are the problem, why is the engine running fine over 2k rpm?... i would suspect the evap purge valve, r/s of engine rearward of the air cleaner.
 
I would love to see a video of getting to the front plug too, and how to get to the air filter on the RT!
 
Need to make the video on an RT...that's the one that is challenging.

The problem with shooting a video is there is no way to see what you are doing, we tried doing it yesterday on a RS and it was a waste of time as you are doing this by feel not sight.

We ran into an issue on the RS with zipties on the plug wire so we had to pull the air box loose anyway to cut the ties.
 
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