I think I got the top box lid error figured out.

[AY4B]

The fix is actually quite easy. I also have. F3L. All you have to do is raise th little metal clip just a bit. Take a pencil or some other similar sized object and bend it up just a little bit. It doesn’t take much. I did this when I first got my F3L and haven’t had a problem since

View attachment 166943

I have tried that a couple of times. It seems to help for a while and the problem starts to return.

 

[AY4B]

A simple fix might be to get a vacuum line cap that fits, simple and a little less cumbersome than electrical tape.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ograde-rubber-vacuum-caps/47389/4180283?pos=1

that looks like a hard rubber plug. Wont work. The post on the lid is T shaped and short. The earplug is soft and easy to make into a cover for the post. I used a drill bit to make a hole in the flat side but not all the way threw. just enough to fit over the post then snip off the extra materiel. You dont need very much thickness on the end if a layer of electrical tape will do the trick.

 

[Bballistick]

I have tried that a couple of times. It seems to help for a while and the problem starts to return.

The clip is actually stronger than it looks at first glance. I’d try it again. Take some needle nose pliers, grab it and torq it gently up. It can take quite a tug and shouldn’t snap off or anything like that. I’ve probably opened and closed the trunk 100+ times since with no problems. Give it another shot before trying to attach something that’ll probably come off and get stuck somewhere.

 

[KID Ryker]

MY FIX

Both mine and my wifes F3L seem to keep having the message that the rear lid is open. I studied it the other day and just figured the post on the lid is just a hair short. I put a piece of electrical tape on it and have not had it come up again. Did it to my wifes f3 and hers has also stopped. Just the thickness of the electrical tape did the trick. Knock on wood. Im trying to think of something that would do the same thing that would look a little better. Any suggestions?

I had the same problem. I took off the left side color panel and disconnected the switch. I don't have a light to tell me if my bags are not closed, I don't need one for my top case. Just Me.

 

[rays hell]

Switch

I used a small piece of plastic (bottle cap) and slid it under the switch raising it up and have not had a problem going on over a year.

 

[JimH]

The fix is actually quite easy. I also have. F3L. All you have to do is raise th little metal clip just a bit. Take a pencil or some other similar sized object and bend it up just a little bit. It doesn’t take much. I did this when I first got my F3L and haven’t had a problem since

View attachment 166943

I was having he same issue since the day I bought my 2017 F3 Limited. I raised the clip a bit and BINGO no more open error. It was so annoying, I like looking at the trip 1 odometer and that darn orange warning was always there. I am so excited - thanks!
Jim

 

[Smokes]

A short piece of black heatshrink tubing over the pin in the lid, maybe 30mm/1.25" long. After shrinking it and it's cooled off, trim to about 1/4" past the pin.
A quick & easy fix, end of problem.

 

[GaryinWI]

A small drop of silicon on the end of the plastic plunger irks too.

 

[AY4B]

A short piece of black heatshrink tubing over the pin in the lid, maybe 30mm/1.25" long. After shrinking it and it's cooled off, trim to about 1/4" past the pin.
A quick & easy fix, end of problem.

I redid mine because the earplug was wearing out. I found some heat shrink tape that came with my XK Chrome lighting kit and used that but your post was the insperation. Thanks.

 

[RICZ]

Rays hell has the correct fix. Slip something under the switch to raise it a tad. I used a pile of little squares of electrical tape I cut with a scissors - maybe 6 ply. Then slipped them under the switch and pressed down to make it stick better. With the high brake light still off, I lowered the lid to check and the switch is pushed farther, making perfect contact. Although the second photo shows the switch removed from its holder, there's no need to do so, just lift it a little and insert shimming.