• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

I need brake pads

Update?

My brake pads were delivered today. Thanks BajaRon for your usual expeditious service.

Thanks also to everyone who gave me pointers. I'm feeling very confident that I can handle this task.
Gonna install the TricLED fender lights while I have the front wheels off. :dg2:

Pam

Hi Pam... How 'bout an update on your brake job. Did it happen yet and how smooth did it go for you? :dontknow:

-Rick
 
Hi Pam... How 'bout an update on your brake job. Did it happen yet and how smooth did it go for you? :dontknow:

-Rick

Hi Rick,

The fronts were fairly easy to do, but the rear caliper bolts were a b*tch to get loose. The assemblers at the BRP factory must love to drench the bolts in industrial strength threadlocker. Even with an impact wrench, they were difficult to get loose. The front caliper bolts were difficult to get out also, but at least they were more accessible.

Other than that, changing the pads was a routine job with no difficulties. I remounted all the calipers using blue Loctite on the bolts, so the job should be a bit easier next time.

Pam
 
Hi Rick,

The fronts were fairly easy to do, but the rear caliper bolts were a b*tch to get loose. The assemblers at the BRP factory must love to drench the bolts in industrial strength threadlocker. Even with an impact wrench, they were difficult to get loose. The front caliper bolts were difficult to get out also, but at least they were more accessible.

Other than that, changing the pads was a routine job with no difficulties. I remounted all the calipers using blue Loctite on the bolts, so the job should be a bit easier next time.

Pam

I know you asked about bleeding which is not necessary as mentioned, BUT, are you 2 years into ownership? If so, brake fluid should be flushed(replaced) every 2 years.... Just food for thought if you weren't. ;)
 
I know you asked about bleeding which is not necessary as mentioned, BUT, are you 2 years into ownership? If so, brake fluid should be flushed(replaced) every 2 years.... Just food for thought if you weren't. ;)

At the time I replaced the pads, I had just passed one year since purchasing the Spyder, so I expect the need to flush the brake fluid next June. I'll probably be ready for another set of pads by then.

Thanks for the heads up!

Pam
 
Hi Rick,

The fronts were fairly easy to do, but the rear caliper bolts were a b*tch to get loose. The assemblers at the BRP factory must love to drench the bolts in industrial strength threadlocker. Even with an impact wrench, they were difficult to get loose. The front caliper bolts were difficult to get out also, but at least they were more accessible.

Other than that, changing the pads was a routine job with no difficulties. I remounted all the calipers using blue Loctite on the bolts, so the job should be a bit easier next time.

Pam

Thanks Pam!!
 
Thanks for the pad tutorial

Thanks so much.

-Bill

Front: remove wheel, two bolts hold caliper. Remove caliper. Remove/replace pads. Install caliper. Install wheel. Do other side.
Rear: jack up rear. Two silver bolts hold caliper on. Remove caliper. Remove pads. Use a standard set of needle nose pliers to put in the two divots in the piston. Push hard while turning clockwise. Piston will retract until flush. Put new pads in. Replace caliper. Use lock tite on caliper bolts, front and rear. Remove from jack, start bike, pump brake pedal until firm. Test drive. All set!
Call if you get stuck! Joe
 
Brake Pads for 2014 RTS

I'm down to 1.75mm on rear and will need pads in 2,500 miles or so. How do I order from Baja Ron? I could not find pads on his store on e-bay.

Thanks.
 
I'm down to 1.75mm on rear and will need pads in 2,500 miles or so. How do I order from Baja Ron? I could not find pads on his store on e-bay.

Thanks.

Here is the link to his thread explaining everything he has. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...rs-amp-Helmets&p=261921&viewfull=1#post261921

At the bottom of the first post he explains how to contact him. I quote.

[FONT=&quot]Purchasing[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Right now I am pretty basic. If you are interested in anything I have listed here or anything having to do with a motorcycle or rider please email me at [/FONT][FONT=&quot][email protected][/FONT][FONT=&quot] with your request. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Payment - Domestic[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Paypal – Personal Check – Money Order[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Payment - International[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Paypal – Bank Wire Transfer – Western Union[/FONT]
 
I'm down to 1.75mm on rear and will need pads in 2,500 miles or so. How do I order from Baja Ron? I could not find pads on his store on e-bay.

Thanks.

There is a lot I carry that I never list on eBay. There are some things that I carry that I list on eBay but not here. As far as Spyder specific items, they are all listed in my banner ad page here on the Home Page of Spyderlovers.com

As stated above. You can always PM me or email me at [email protected]

Emails are best but PM's are fine too.

I usually ship same day or (if purchased late in the day), next day.
 
Front: remove wheel, two bolts hold caliper. Remove caliper. Remove/replace pads. Install caliper. Install wheel. Do other side.
Rear: jack up rear. Two silver bolts hold caliper on. Remove caliper. Remove pads. Use a standard set of needle nose pliers to put in the two divots in the piston. Push hard while turning clockwise. Piston will retract until flush. Put new pads in. Replace caliper. Use lock tite on caliper bolts, front and rear. Remove from jack, start bike, pump brake pedal until firm. Test drive. All set!
Call if you get stuck! Joe

Well, now. I don't have any idea which year Spyder you are working on, but my experience replacing brake pads on my 2011 RSS was quite a bit different.

I ordered EBC pads from BajaRon and received them a few days later. All well and good. Removed the wheel, removed the caliper, and lifted the old pads out of the caliper. Pushed the pistons back into the caliper. OK, piece of cake.

Now, the stock pads are held in the caliper by 2 goofy little spring clips. The goofy little spring clips did not come with the EBC pads, so I had to remove the old ones from the stock pads. Wouldn't you just know it......, one broke! OK, no big deal. 5 cent spring clip should cost about $1.50 at the dealer, so I call on the phone. Oh, no, those are not purchasable as a separate item! One must purchase a complete set of stock pads to get the spring clips! I wanted the EBC pads, not replace the stock which were not worn out, btw, but to replace them with EBC pads. (oh, yeah, one broke on the left side, too) So to get 2 spring clips, I had to shell out $120.00 for a set of stock pads. Anybody want them? I think we can work a deal.

All that being said, be veerry careful when removing the wee spring clips. And when putting them on the EBC pads. Ron, maybe it would be helpful to hamfisted folks like me if you were to mention this in your instruction sheet?
 
Caliper Bolt Torque settings

Changing pads on 2014 RT today. Idea on caliper torque setting?

Many thanks.

Jeff

I actually just bought an online shop manual. Fronts are 50 ft.lbs and rear is 77.
 
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