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I hate Squealing Brakes - any suggestions to stop them squealing?
- Thread starter Fatcycledaddy
- Start date
Mikey
Well-known member
The back of the pads should have been buttered with that compound that go's on to keep them quiet, don't remember what it's called, but when I got my last pads from bajaron, he sent me instructions to use it and I told myself I didnt need it, but guess what, off the pads came and I went to the auto parts store and got the stuff and put it on!!! It will work for you also!! Good luck, sorry for the bad news!! Good Luck!
BajaRon
Well-known member
Mikey
Well-known member
Thanks Ron!! Knew you would help me out!!:thumbup:
carbonation
New member
The bubblegum stuff recommended will stop brake squeal for sure, but the next pad replacement will take extra time cleaning up.
This stuff works very well, and brake cleaner washes it away. Water does not.
This, and new pads, solved the squeal on my 19.
To OP... who did the pads? It is possible to get the pads in wrong, where leading edge is located at trail. Also, were they factory pads? I've not seen an aftermarket kit come with the retaining clips, and removing those from the old pads can deform them, making new pad install difficult. Just might want to verify everything is assembled the way it should be.
BajaRon
Well-known member
There are other products on the market that work well. CRC may be the most readily available, so that is why I recommend it.
EBC now includes a complete set of retainer clips with their brake pads. A very good move on their part. I have new clips that I can send to anyone who finds they need one.
troop
Well-known member
Starting to get some squealing on a couple of my brakes now. Thinking if I'm going to pop off the pads to clean/lube everything up, I might consider replacing the pads to some EBC HH. I've had good luck with these on past bikes. With only about 7.5k on the pads, they still have lots of life, but wondering how the EBC's work on the F3 ? Lack of braking hasn't been a concern. Thx for any knowledgeable F3 EBC input. ** And maybe the Bajaron piston tool 
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pegasus1300
Well-known member
" I've not seen an aftermarket kit come with the retaining clips" EBC pads do come with the the clips and have done for about 2 years. If you got some without the clips call EBC and they will send you some.
troop
Well-known member
I "think" Bajaron has them now for the EBC's
troop
Well-known member
EBS's motorcycle pad break in procedure will likely only happen in a perfect world. 300 miles of gentle/gradual braking, followed by multiple hard stops and cool downs. Best advice is to just ride/brake normally and hope no critters run in front of you or vehicles turn left in front of you.
BajaRon
Well-known member
There are different schools of though on this. Conventional wisdom says if you use the shim, do not use a product like CRC. If you're going to use CRC (or similar) don't use the shim. I am not sure there is enough room for the shim and CRC. But if you were going to use the shim, I would put CRC on both sides as well as on the pad backing plate. You want to apply CRC fairly thick because of how it works. CRC is designed to absorb vibration to keep the pad from vibrating at all. The more volume of CRC you apply, the more vibration it is able to absorb.
Shims are designed to isolate the vibrating pad from the caliper so it does not resonate through hard parts. Both have advantages and disadvantages. Shims are adequate in most cases. But overall, CRC type products seem to work better in more severe situations.
I agree that the currently recommended bedding in process recommended by EBC is not realistic, nor is it the best method. EBC used to recommend the hard stop process be done after install because they were speaking to track racers who needed ultimate braking right away. But as more and more street riders started using these pads, they changed their tune, for some reason.
You can use either method, of course. Or no method at all. But I still think the hard braking right away is the best approach.
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trong
New member
I bought a 2013 RTL a few months back and I do not like the squealing brake at all. Shortly after I bought it I removed the rear caliper and sprayed Napa Disc Brake Quiet between the pads and their shims. That did not help at all.
Last year I had the same problem with my 2013 Honda CB1100 on the rear brakes. I remove the brake pads, made by Nissin, to find out that they use a thin piece of fiber glass and plastics material. I sprayed the Napa stuff on both sides of the plastics and the pads and the shims, pit back together and never hear the squealing again.
Today I remove the rear caliper on the RTL and use old plastics gift cards, cut to fit, to sandwich between the shims and the pads, with Napa sprayed on all contact surfaces, I had to back the piston in just a little. I also used a file to chamfer the brake material on leading and trailing edges on the pads. Put everything back together and go for a short ride, amazingly the squealing is eliminated by about 90%.
I am not sure how long the plastic pieces will last due to the heat on the pads, guess I will find out sooner or later. BTW, no lab animals were harmed during this experiment.
Cheers!
Last year I had the same problem with my 2013 Honda CB1100 on the rear brakes. I remove the brake pads, made by Nissin, to find out that they use a thin piece of fiber glass and plastics material. I sprayed the Napa stuff on both sides of the plastics and the pads and the shims, pit back together and never hear the squealing again.
Today I remove the rear caliper on the RTL and use old plastics gift cards, cut to fit, to sandwich between the shims and the pads, with Napa sprayed on all contact surfaces, I had to back the piston in just a little. I also used a file to chamfer the brake material on leading and trailing edges on the pads. Put everything back together and go for a short ride, amazingly the squealing is eliminated by about 90%.
I am not sure how long the plastic pieces will last due to the heat on the pads, guess I will find out sooner or later. BTW, no lab animals were harmed during this experiment.
Cheers!
troop
Well-known member
About a month ago I removed all my pads for inspection. With about 7.8K miles on the odo, all pads were in great shape. I lightly sanded the pads to remove any glazing. I popped off the front rotors and gave them a good cleaning (did the rear as good as I could on the bike). I applied a thin layer of Brake Quiet to both sides of the OEM brake pad shims, cleaned the caliper and reassembled. About 300 miles later, my rear brake is slightly chirping again, but it goes away when fully warmed up. Oh well ....
BajaRon
Well-known member
You want to put the Brake Quiet on as thick as you can. It is a gel that sets up and is designed to absorb the high frequency vibrations that causes the squeal. The more volume (thicker) you put on, the more vibration it is able to absorb.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eab_beh07HU&ab_channel=StephenMcElvain
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BajaRon
Well-known member
Probably true. It makes a mess if you try to install the pads before giving it time to gel. It never sets up hard. But it will get to where it won't run when turned vertical.
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