I Done went and Diddit

[Imnotlost]

Well I finally managed to find a Spyder that fit my requirement of being affordable and under or eligible for a warranty, and my wife's requirement of an accceptable "cuteness" factor! I had actually found a private seller with a 2012 RS- SE5, but while I was waiting for him to transfer the warranty to his name from the original owner, I came across the exact same year, model & color sitting in an AutoMax dealership in Ocala for considerably less.

In the end, we managed an OTD price of $13300 for a 2012 SE5 with 1380 miles and once we got there, we found that it had some LED effects that my wife crooned over - bonus! :yes:



In the meantime, I've started going over it thoroughly and discovered some things:

1) The oil level seemed alarmingly low (engine cold). I'll check it again tomorrow when I can warm it up, but the oil level isn't even reaching the dipstick. I can see that there is oil in the reservoir, so I'm not too alarmed, but I'm concerned enough to pick up a quart of synthetic API-SL and check it IAW the manual. Coolant reservoir also seemed low, so I added 2-3 splashes of 50/50 and 1-2 splashes of Wetter. It's really hard to see the "Full" level on that bottle - how hard would it have been to put a stick on the lid?
2) The guy who wired the LED lights is fortunate that he didn't cause an electrical fire on this thing. After seeing that the wires on the light switch were not only not soldered, but had electrical tape holding them on to the posts, I decided to dismantle the panels and trace the wiring back, right to the fuse box where he had wallowed out a hole in the side and ran the hot wire around one side of a 5a accessory fuse. The ground was wrapped around the base of a chassis bolt and only hanging on by two strands.

I decided to call it a night at that point. I'll show my wife the rats nest tomorrow. She will be upset, but I'll offer to rewire the whole enchilada so she can pick and choose where the light effects go. Now I need to find a switching fuse/terminal block. Anyone have some decent sources?

 

[SpyderAnn01]

:welcome: you have to check the oil on Spyders with the engine at operating temperature. If you check it cold you will not see any oil on the dip stick.

Have fun and enjoy your new machine.

 

[ARtraveler]

:welcome: and :congrats: on the new ryde. :thumbup:

 

[napper39]

thats what he said you must never check oil cold,it must be after about 15 min.ride and at operating temps.if you put too much oil in it will go in to your air box..now have all the fun riding and ride like the wind.welcom to spyder famley.:thumbup::chat:

 

[harrypottar]

:congrats::welcome:

Harry

 

[vtrider]

Well I finally managed to find a Spyder that fit my requirement of being affordable and under or eligible for a warranty, and my wife's requirement of an accceptable "cuteness" factor! I had actually found a private seller with a 2012 RS- SE5, but while I was waiting for him to transfer the warranty to his name from the original owner, I came across the exact same year, model & color sitting in an AutoMax dealership in Ocala for considerably less.

In the end, we managed an OTD price of $13300 for a 2012 SE5 with 1380 miles and once we got there, we found that it had some LED effects that my wife crooned over - bonus! :yes: View attachment 67545View attachment 67546



In the meantime, I've started going over it thoroughly and discovered some things:

1) The oil level seemed alarmingly low (engine cold). I'll check it again tomorrow when I can warm it up, but the oil level isn't even reaching the dipstick. I can see that there is oil in the reservoir, so I'm not too alarmed, but I'm concerned enough to pick up a quart of synthetic API-SL and check it IAW the manual. Coolant reservoir also seemed low, so I added 2-3 splashes of 50/50 and 1-2 splashes of Wetter. It's really hard to see the "Full" level on that bottle - how hard would it have been to put a stick on the lid?
2) The guy who wired the LED lights is fortunate that he didn't cause an electrical fire on this thing. After seeing that the wires on the light switch were not only not soldered, but had electrical tape holding them on to the posts, I decided to dismantle the panels and trace the wiring back, right to the fuse box where he had wallowed out a hole in the side and ran the hot wire around one side of a 5a accessory fuse. The ground was wrapped around the base of a chassis bolt and only hanging on by two strands.

I decided to call it a night at that point. I'll show my wife the rats nest tomorrow. She will be upset, but I'll offer to rewire the whole enchilada so she can pick and choose where the light effects go. Now I need to find a switching fuse/terminal block. Anyone have some decent sources?

The PC-8 from Eastern Beaver is a good choice if your looking for a good quality fuse box. You can wire either switched or un-switched circuits using this fuse box.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html

 

[Chupaca]

Have to agree..!!

with checking oil. I usually check coming in from a ryde top off if needed and be ready for the next ryde. Your fuse box under the frunk lid has both switched and un-switched fuses available. But many add a third fuse box. But the important part is welcome to the roadster world and the answer place that goes with it. Congrats..!! :thumbup:

 

[YPILOT]

Well I finally managed to find a Spyder that fit my requirement of being affordable and under or eligible for a warranty, and my wife's requirement of an accceptable "cuteness" factor! I had actually found a private seller with a 2012 RS- SE5, but while I was waiting for him to transfer the warranty to his name from the original owner, I came across the exact same year, model & color sitting in an AutoMax dealership in Ocala for considerably less.

In the end, we managed an OTD price of $13300 for a 2012 SE5 with 1380 miles and once we got there, we found that it had some LED effects that my wife crooned over - bonus! :yes: View attachment 67545View attachment 67546



In the meantime, I've started going over it thoroughly and discovered some things:

1) The oil level seemed alarmingly low (engine cold). I'll check it again tomorrow when I can warm it up, but the oil level isn't even reaching the dipstick. I can see that there is oil in the reservoir, so I'm not too alarmed, but I'm concerned enough to pick up a quart of synthetic API-SL and check it IAW the manual. Coolant reservoir also seemed low, so I added 2-3 splashes of 50/50 and 1-2 splashes of Wetter. It's really hard to see the "Full" level on that bottle - how hard would it have been to put a stick on the lid?
2) The guy who wired the LED lights is fortunate that he didn't cause an electrical fire on this thing. After seeing that the wires on the light switch were not only not soldered, but had electrical tape holding them on to the posts, I decided to dismantle the panels and trace the wiring back, right to the fuse box where he had wallowed out a hole in the side and ran the hot wire around one side of a 5a accessory fuse. The ground was wrapped around the base of a chassis bolt and only hanging on by two strands.

I decided to call it a night at that point. I'll show my wife the rats nest tomorrow. She will be upset, but I'll offer to rewire the whole enchilada so she can pick and choose where the light effects go. Now I need to find a switching fuse/terminal block. Anyone have some decent sources?

You might want to give Reggy at TRIC LED a call. He has all of the electrical items that you need to do a safe installation. Check out his banner on the home page.

 

[lookerjdc]

:congrats::2thumbs:
welcome onboard

 

[TuckMiddle]

'Read the Owners Manual

:cheers: on the bike.
Sounds like you need to get out the owners manual and memorize some of it. The Spyder is a great vehicle, but has a lot of unique things you'll need to do - the oil check being #1
Ask away on any Q you may have, the responders are pretty sharp and seldom lead anyone down the wrong road.
Tuck

 

[Bob Denman]

Judging by that big smile; you knocked it right out of the park! :congrats: :2thumbs:

 

[Imnotlost]

:welcome: you have to check the oil on Spyders with the engine at operating temperature. If you check it cold you will not see any oil on the dip stick.

Have fun and enjoy your new machine.

That is very good info, SpyderAnn - MUCH appreciated. :thumbup: While I knew that an ACCURATE reading had to be made at operating temperature, (yes I read the owner's manual Tuckmiddle ), I did NOT know that when cold, it would not register a reading on the stick at all. It is interesting to note that the owner's manual is VERY specific...
...."3. With the engine already at normal operating temperature, start engine and let it run for at least 30 seconds.
NOTE: Running engine for at least 30 seconds allows the suction oil pump to drain the oil from the engine crankcase back into the oil tank. Not carrying out this step could result in overfilling the engine oil.

That being said, I will not add so much as a drop of additional oil until obtaining an accurate reading. Thanks also to Napper for mentioning the nasty side-effect of overfilling (oil in air box). :shocked:

 

[Imnotlost]

Judging by that big smile; you knocked it right out of the park! :congrats: :2thumbs:

Yessir! (that smile lights up my day) She's a happy camper and is anxious to get the safety course completed. It's a good thing she didn't ride it home, as we still got caught in some nasty weather, not to mention the LOVEBUGS are out! :cus:. I had forgotten how uncomfortable rain is at 65mph, and THOUGHT I had forgotten the not-so-palatable taste of love-bug goo!

 

[fireplug98]

Congrats !!!!


Tommy J.

 

[Imnotlost]

Thank you for that info! I saw a link regarding that vendor by a gent who had installed a bunch of stuff. The thing I like about his "fuze" block is that it provides switched and un-switched and also provides bleed-back diodes. A bit pricey, but with the extra features it may be well worth the extra cabbage in the end.

 

[Imnotlost]

Many thanks to everyone for all the warm welcomes AND information. I will definitely read the entire owners manual, now that I see there really are some unique procedures.

I must say, although this RS will need some refinements to make it comfortable for my wife (risers, grip puppies & adjustable windshield), this Spyder really is a neat machine. It is even MORE hi-tech than I thought it was, which really does help explain the high MSRP price-point. It has an amazing amount of power and super-responsive steering... so much so, I'm going to insist that my wife does not ride this in traffic until she has spent considerable time in a large parking lot. I need to know that she is comfortable with and can control the steering, and can flex that right foot quickly enough to provide emergency braking before she has to contend with Jacksonville drivers!

 

[NancysToy]

Not only must the Spyder oil be checked at full operating temperature (not just the water temperatur raising on the gauge), the dipstick needs to be screwed in all the wal to read properly. That will show a falsely low level, too.

 

[SpyderWolf]

:congrats: to your wife on her new Spyder. It is obvious from the picture she is very happy with it and I hope it brings her tons of joy once she is able to ryde it. :thumbup:

 

[Jeriatric]

Welcome and congrats. :thumbup:

You may find reading this worth your time as well.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...t-for-new-Spyder-owners&highlight=do's+dont's

 

[bhfromme]

:welcome: and :congrats: You'll find guys here that can help with just about anything. Never hesitate to ask - this forum is an amazing resource. Now get out there and ryde!