Dunkel_wolf
New member
Hi everyone we finally went from a Spyder RS to a Spyder RT it is a 2012 but we picked up a 2010 trailer Can Am changed the plug from the bike to the trailer anyone know what need s to be done so these will work together.
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how to set up a 2012 RT to tow a 2010 622 trailer
- Thread starter Dunkel_wolf
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NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
You have to be a little clearer on what you have. The 2012 version of the BRP hitch and module (9-pin) will work fine on the 2010 trailer, although the separate turn signals are not functional...the brakelights also serve as turn signals. The 2013 version of the hitch (4-pin square), which is the one currently being shipped unless a dealer has an old one on the shelf, will not work unless the trailer connector is changed to match. BRP makes a tongue harness to do that job, but it isn't compatible with the 2010 trailer, and would have to be wired directly or have the intermediate connectors changed. The easiest thing is to find a square-4 to match, identify the correct wires on the trailer, and wire the new connector in.
Dunkel_wolf
New member
Sorry Yes the dealership installed the new 2013 hitch with a 4 pin square plug. is it possible to make an adapter plug ?
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
It would be possible to make an adapter, but it is a bit hard to explain, and would certainly not be the cheapest way out. BRP makes a tongue harness to adapt the 2011/2012 trailers (P/N 710003227). This harness will not fit the 2010 trailer directly, but you could remove the intermediate connectors from the harness and the mating trailer wiring cable, and either wire them together directly, or install something like a flat-4 trailer connector. The easiest way, however, is to go to a local trailer store or auto parts store and purchase a mating square-4 trailer connector. That can then be wired either in place of the existing trailer connector (using only 4 of the 6 wires), or in parallel so you can retain the old connector too.
You will connect to the wires to A, B, C, & D in the trailer tongue harness, black for ground, brown for running lights, red for the right turn/brake light, and orange for the left turn brake/light. F & G won't be used. It is best to make temporary connections first, and test the functions before wiring things permanently. I recommend the use of waterproof butt connectors or soldered joints and heat shrink tubing. Self-vulcanizing rubber tape will cover the splice and add some weather protection. A trailer shop could do everything for you if you towed the trailer there, if you are uncomfortable with doing the work yourself.
You will connect to the wires to A, B, C, & D in the trailer tongue harness, black for ground, brown for running lights, red for the right turn/brake light, and orange for the left turn brake/light. F & G won't be used. It is best to make temporary connections first, and test the functions before wiring things permanently. I recommend the use of waterproof butt connectors or soldered joints and heat shrink tubing. Self-vulcanizing rubber tape will cover the splice and add some weather protection. A trailer shop could do everything for you if you towed the trailer there, if you are uncomfortable with doing the work yourself.
bluestratos
New member
I just did this yesterday and it was quite easy. I found a square 4 pin plug at the auto store, it has standard automotive color code of white, brown, green and Yellow. Just match the colors to the trailer harness (connect the white to black is the only change). I used red marine butt connects to make the connections, this is the type that you heat after crimping and it shinks and adhears to the wire jacket. I staggard the connections down the line to prevent a bulky spot then used split loom to protect the entire length of the trailer cord. I slid a large piece of shrink tubbing over the bottom part of the new square connector and part way down onto the split loom to clean it up and make a bit of a strain relief, I believe it was 3/4" size.
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