How to Replace the RTS Speakers

[Hobstopper]

Thanks SpyderRider, I actually called Polk Audio this morning and was told that the DXI were made for Best Buy and they have a few enhancements, but are made out of the same materials. I have located a place to get the DBs for 110 (all four with shipping) where as the DXIs would cost me a little over 180 with taxes.
I definitely understand wanting them now, the wait is the worse part:gaah:

 

[SpyderRider]

WOW, made just for Best Buy...that's some buying power. I know when I did the research, they both matched up fairly evenly in the spec's dept! Good Luck and let us know how they install/sound! :doorag::doorag:

 

[clueless]

anyone using bass blockers? does 6 db slope versus 12 db slope make that much difference? I know you can go with a lower cut off frequency but the cost is more the double for 12 db slope bass blockers

 

[crtravelnmore]

12db is better and worth the money. It will protect your speakers better. Also, it will give a cleaner midrange and midbass on the fronts. You need to be careful with the cutoff frequency and the slope because it is a lot sharper. Some think 80Hz is ok for a 5 1/4'' driver but I think 400-600hz will be better on the :spyder: as it is an open air environment and when you’re cruising at 80mph, you won't hear much midbass. This is how I will do mine when I get back from my group cruise but I'm doing 18db. Also, I will be using a high pass filter instead of a bass blocker. It's much cleaner.hyea:Just my 2 cents.

 

[clueless]

thanks ... another thing with a high pass filter you will need more space to fit the inductors and caps.

i think better then nothing to go with a 400 and 600 hz bass blocker at 6db slope and it should roll off enough at the lower freq (20 to 200 hz) to help. plus its just an in line install no extra space required and a lot cheaper

 

[crtravelnmore]

Sounds good. Let us know how it goes. I'm an audio buff so I'll pay a little more to get great long lasting sound.:2thumbs:

 

[dave01]

Yu werent kidding about the rear speakers. Took twice as long to do them as the fronts. But, the sound improvement was worth the blood and swearing.

 

[MouthPiece]

When the author of this thread talked about the difficulty of getting into the rear speakers, he wasn't kidding at all. I think he referred to it as the "facia plate". I also note that he didn't really go into detail describing just what a person is challenged with in opening this little booger.

Once you have removed the "box" containing the speaker, you will have to go through all kinds of contortions to open or remove this facia plate as I think he described. There are no screws, but instead a hinge and some other plastic ....plastic......"hooks" for lack of a better term. There is some "pushing and pulling" that you have to go through to open the "box" that contains the speaker.

I know of this because I watched the corbin tech taking the speakers off my spyder RT in order to install the armrests onto the speaker box. Admittedly it was his first install and he had never seen a speaker box like this. I think he mentioned that there were something like 32 moves to make in order to get the speaker set up off and get it back together again.

After doing all the above, he, the corbin tech, told me that they would be charging for armrest installation in the future.

Chris PE # 0004 (until I had my corbin seat installed)

 

[Hobstopper]

OK, purchased and received:
DB401 rear 4"
DB521 front 5.25"

Let me start by saying that I don’t care for having music pumped directly into my ear and will be listening to my music over the Spyder speakers. My communication and phone will come to my ear speakers, but not music. Thus, why I am spending money and time to replace the existing speakers and planning the future modifications.

I was in a hurry to get them in and I know that I will be disassembling the Spyder during the winter, so I plan on going back in a clean up the install and make some changes.

The quality of the sound is much improved better clarity in the mid range sitting and at speed. The bass still lacks, not as bad as the factory speakers, but with the improvements I am going to do this winter it should end up sounding like I want. Thinking of adding a small inexpensive amp, since the speakers have more power handling ability than the stock radio (at least from what I remember from a previous post) can push, should give it better performance in the “ideal” low to mid level volume setting.


Here are the highlights and pointers:

-Both front and rear are difficult in their own way to install. I actually thought that the rears were easier to install than the fronts.

-Polarity, watch your connectors concentrate on which wire has the trace (negative). The connector sizes are backwards and don’t match the size of the spades on the speakers, but will fit just make sure to close the gap on the female connectors so they fit snuggly! There is not a lot of room to cut the old connectors off and crimp new ones on, you may be able to counter crimp and pull the wire out of the connector without cutting it if you want to change the connectors.

-Sound deadening, when I go back in this Winter I will be lining the housing with sound deadening material, don’t use the cheap stuff as it will run out when it gets hot out.

-Pressure relief, at the time that I put in the sound deadening material I will also be cutting in a pressure relief hole in the housing in an area that will not be seen and away from water intrusion the best I can. I will probably put a filter or screen of some sort over the relief hole:dontknow:.

-When removing the screws that hold the factory speakers in keep in mind there are washers that space the speaker away from the plastic, if you are not careful they will fall out and end up in an alternate reality:gaah:.


Will post more if I remember anything else.

 

[clueless]

you could try foam speaker baffles:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-v4ElV0SsfsA/g_762/Foam-Speaker-Baffles.html

 

[Hobstopper]

Thanks for the heads up Clueless:2thumbs:, I like the flange for speaker to panel isolation, easy on the pocket bookhyea:.

 

[SpyderRider]

I got these from Crutchfield (Also offered by others on-line or locally!) for my RT-S:

237XT42 XTC 4" Speaker Baffles Slimline


237XT52 XTC 5-1/4" Speaker Baffles Slimline

They help to keep water and dust away from the backs of the speakers. I have been using XTC Baffles in vehicles for years with great results. Some folk think they limit the Bass coming from the speakers so what I have always done is cut a small quarter size hole in the back of the baffles allowing the passing through of the wires and creating an air hole for the speakers to breath. This creates a similar situation to a "Bass Reflex" speaker used in homes with a tuned port.

 

[Sopher]

I dont think the baffles are needed at all. All four of the speaker cavities are contained and not in any danger of getting leaks.

 

[pup riley]

rear speakers and mp3 player

i have 2010 RTS touring that has blanks for rear speakers are the cables there to plug in new ones? I also tried my mp3 player in the rear jack provided and went to aux audio and it does not regonize the unit, is it me or something i'm doing wrong? does it have to be and IPOD brand? i'm using sansa fuze...new to the forum and all the info i been reading is super great, thanks to all who post and especially the videos. rodger

 

[NancysToy]

i have 2010 RTS touring that has blanks for rear speakers are the cables there to plug in new ones? I also tried my mp3 player in the rear jack provided and went to aux audio and it does not regonize the unit, is it me or something i'm doing wrong? does it have to be and IPOD brand? i'm using sansa fuze...new to the forum and all the info i been reading is super great, thanks to all who post and especially the videos. rodger

????? The RTS model already has rear speakers. If you have the Audio & Convenience model, the rear speakers are optional. If you have the base model, the entire audio system is optional. The options can be purchased from BRP, but is suspect aftermarlet speakers would work fine.

The mp3 player should work in "aux". It is not controlled from the handlebar, however, does not display, and will not start automatically when plugged in, like an iPod. Be sure you have the speakers enabled in the setup menu, then you can control the speaker volume at the handlebar control.

 

[InspectorGadget]

Rear speaker install

I have had the Polk rear sperkers for several weeks now, but after reading the posts here on the rear speaker installation and how difficult it was, I was waiting for a day when the spyder could be down all day for the retrofit.
Well yestarday I started in nice and early (8:00am) anticipating a rough time. I started with the right and hardest side.
After unhooking the antenna and speaker wires and getting the speaker pod off of the machine I took it to the bench. It took me a few minutes to see what I would have to do to get into the pod. The hardest part was getting the antenna off as I had previously used thread locker on it and it was tough trying to get that sucker off.
After that it was a slap,(not a snap but a slap) and 10 minutes later the pod was re-assembled and ready for install. Total time right side 30 min.
The left side took a total of 10 minutes from pod removal to re-install on the machine. I was done by 9:30 am (took several coffee breaks) and dissappointed that I was done already. Now I would have to go and work on my wifes honey do list. Oh well such is life :clap:
Have fun and ryde safe C-YA RL

 

[Lamonster]

Or you could leave the antenna on. :doorag:

 

[eddieshep999]

Front Speaker Replacement

I am thinking of fitting Kicker PS5250 5-1/4" 2-Way Motorcycle Speakers



See - http://www.kicker.com/ps5250

Any one know if these would fit and be suitable They appear to do a
Impedance of 2 or 4 (Ohms) Which one for the Spyder or could it be either
Thanks

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK

 

[Lamonster]

I am thinking of fitting Kicker PS5250 5-1/4" 2-Way Motorcycle Speakers



See - http://www.kicker.com/ps5250

Any one know if these would fit and be suitable They appear to do a
Impedance of 2 or 4 (Ohms) Which one for the Spyder or could it be either
Thanks

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK

Those look great. :doorag:

 

[BMF_RACING]

I have a RT with the Audio package, so it doesn't currently have the rear speakers. Does anyone happen to know if the wiring for the rears is normally installed just not used in cases like this?
Was hoping I could just buy some speakers to pop into place in the rear. (not holding my breath, figure the wiring is not there)

And thank you Sopher for the videos, very helpful.

I will be in the same boat as Curly, going to pick up a 2010 RT-AC this Sat. :2excited:

Does anyone know if the wiring is already there for the rear speakers, hence the same wiring harness and amp for the RTS and RT-AC?




Just saw this post which outlines the wires are there.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25643&highlight=speaker+rear