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how to remove rear wheel

ssmcclub

New member
I have seen video on removing rear wheel by removing bolt that holds the shock, but can you remove it by turning out the adjusters a certain amount of turns then take of the belt like on a 2 wheel motorcycle?:pray:
 
I have seen video on removing rear wheel by removing bolt that holds the shock, but can you remove it by turning out the adjusters a certain amount of turns then take of the belt like on a 2 wheel motorcycle?:pray:

Yes you can, but getting the belt back into alignment can take some time. By removing the shock bolt this allows you to raise the :f_spider: high enough with the tire still on the ground to slide the belt off without disturbing the alignment.

This is how I do mine and it works very well!
 
The method of removing the shock bolt works real good. I used that method when I put on the Kuhmo and the belt went right back to where it was.
 
ok thanks but where do you do all the jacking up the bike from the frame or the swingarm?:pray:
 
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If you Measure the exact distance from each side of the axle to the end cap and loosen each adjuster the same amount of turns (Not too much) And turn the adjusters the same amount when done and remeasure the exact distances you can Do Away with laying on the ground taking of and putting back in the shock bolt which can be a pain if your Old like me. The manual has you do it this way.
 
I would read the manual as there is no need to remove the shock bolt.
Measure the adjusters or mark the ends.

Make sure the belt gap is correct to the edge of the pulley.

Make sure belt tension is correct..

There are plenty of threads already on this topic.

Good Luck
 
THE MEASURING METHOD

If you Measure the exact distance from each side of the axle to the end cap and loosen each adjuster the same amount of turns (Not too much) And turn the adjusters the same amount when done and remeasure the exact distances you can Do Away with laying on the ground taking of and putting back in the shock bolt which can be a pain if your Old like me. The manual has you do it this way.
As far as the measuring method goes, be advised............as little as 1/4 turn on either adjustment bolt can move your belt +/- 1/8th inch ( from the flange )........1/4 turn is less than 1/96th inch of axel movement, maybe you can see that on a ruler ....I can't..............good luck............Mike :bbq:
 
thank you

thanks for all your input on removing the rear wheel,looks like they way to go is removing the shock bolt,I will give it a shot tomorrow morning:yes::yes::yes:
 
Jusr used the video'd technique on mine. Put on a new Kumho Solus. Everything worked well, but lossening the fasteners was the toughest part for me. Whatever thread locker they used was a bear! But the techique worked well, and the belt was aligned perfectly when reassembled. Recommend it highly.

I put my front end up on car ramps and then used regular car jack under the rearmost portion of the frame. Plenty of room to get at everything. And it is necessary to raise and lower a couple of times to get the load off the shock bolt and the axle.

Good luck.

John
 
I would read the manual as there is no need to remove the shock bolt.
Measure the adjusters or mark the ends.

Make sure the belt gap is correct to the edge of the pulley.

Make sure belt tension is correct..

There are plenty of threads already on this topic.

Good Luck

The 'shock bolt' approach is an alternative to the 'official' approach discovered by some of the early Spyder Owners (Lamont did the original video). Having done both I found the 'shock bolt' method is both faster and easier - mainly because you don't have to muck about with the belt alignment/tension.
 
As far as the measuring method goes, be advised............as little as 1/4 turn on either adjustment bolt can move your belt +/- 1/8th inch ( from the flange )........1/4 turn is less than 1/96th inch of axel movement, maybe you can see that on a ruler ....I can't..............good luck............Mike :bbq:

The 'shock bolt' approach is an alternative to the 'official' approach discovered by some of the early Spyder Owners (Lamont did the original video). Having done both I found the 'shock bolt' method is both faster and easier - mainly because you don't have to muck about with the belt alignment/tension.


:agree: Removing the rear shock bolt is easy, and you wont mess with the belt alignment or the wheel alignment. IMHO
 
Finless also recommends removing the sensor at the front of the swing bar, forget what it's called. Check out his video.
 
put the new tire on tody

Removed wheel like you guys said to do remove the shock bolt, went to couple car shops they said they can't do them because it said on the rim use only motorcycle tires.was using a kumho tire a car tire,went to truck tire service tire repair shop they did it with no problem. did not have to take the wheel apart,he did it the way it was, I did take off the belt pulley he could not balance the tire so went to my motorcycle shop and he did spin balance for me,I had a good day:yes::yes::yes: 3 beer job
 
PERSERVERANCE

Removed wheel like you guys said to do remove the shock bolt, went to couple car shops they said they can't do them because it said on the rim use only motorcycle tires.was using a kumho tire a car tire,went to truck tire service tire repair shop they did it with no problem. did not have to take the wheel apart,he did it the way it was, I did take off the belt pulley he could not balance the tire so went to my motorcycle shop and he did spin balance for me,I had a good day:yes::yes::yes: 3 beer job
:yes::yes::yes::yes:.......sorry I forgot to mention the RIM warning...........but to everyone else ...just fill it in with body putty.... sand it and spray with silver paint....................Mike :bbq:
 
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ok took the spyder for a ride today sat with new kumho 225/50/15 ecsta feels real nice, will break it in real good on sunday with my southshore mc club will let you know how it works:clap::clap::clap:
 
I did mine yesterday. Took it off but did not see any sensor wire in the front. Could be just an RT thing. took it to 2 car tire places and they would not do it. I called Richardson motorsports and they said they would do it for 37 dollars. I went there because I knew a Spyder dealer would not booger up my rim.
 
I did mine yesterday. Took it off but did not see any sensor wire in the front. Could be just an RT thing. took it to 2 car tire places and they would not do it. I called Richardson motorsports and they said they would do it for 37 dollars. I went there because I knew a Spyder dealer would not booger up my rim.

I got one of these wrenches off Ebay. I highly recommend it and it is small enough to add to your tool kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191407295271?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
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