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how to jack-up F3...

can anyone give advice? Thanks in advance!
Peter

Depending on the task, here is what I had done.

Oil Change - Because I want the Spyder level for the drain, I drove it up on my RaceRamps in
front, then, used a traditional (large) floor jack at the back of the steel center frame section to
lift the rear and place a special/similar height wood section underneath the rear wheel. In
all cases I use something like a hockey puck on the jack with a thick rag to keep the possible
scratching down. When I say "large" jack I mean something with a wide footprint for stability.
With that I am about 8" high all the way around.

Front SwayBar - With this you need almost 2' of height in the front. I do the same initially to
get the Spyder high and level, but then, move the jack to the forward-most position of the center frame rail
and jack from there. (The reason I raise the rear as-well is because the jack platform will always
be horizontal to the floor. By raising the rear, when you raise the front the angle is lessened
as the jack goes up... w/o doing that your Spyder at full lift would be literally riding on the very
rear edge of the jacking platform. I have a leather filled bean-bag I put on the jack for that.

General Work - I will just drive up on the RaceRamps (No-slip, solid, 100% safe). The RRs cost
a bit more but there are no other ramps like them.

Word of Caution - When lifting for the rear the Spyder is stable L/R because your front wheels are
on solid surface. When lifting for the front, it is EXTREMELY important to get that jack dead-center
because as you lift the front becomes a balancing act that could get dangerous. If not centered you
will immediately see it tilt to one side. Best to stop there, lower the jack, and center it better.
 
first thanks...

Depending on the task, here is what I had done.

Oil Change - Because I want the Spyder level for the drain, I drove it up on my RaceRamps in
front, then, used a traditional (large) floor jack at the back of the steel center frame section to
lift the rear and place a special/similar height wood section underneath the rear wheel. In
all cases I use something like a hockey puck on the jack with a thick rag to keep the possible
scratching down. When I say "large" jack I mean something with a wide footprint for stability.
With that I am about 8" high all the way around.

Front SwayBar - With this you need almost 2' of height in the front. I do the same initially to
get the Spyder high and level, but then, move the jack to the forward-most position of the center frame rail
and jack from there. (The reason I raise the rear as-well is because the jack platform will always
be horizontal to the floor. By raising the rear, when you raise the front the angle is lessened
as the jack goes up... w/o doing that your Spyder at full lift would be literally riding on the very
rear edge of the jacking platform. I have a leather filled bean-bag I put on the jack for that.

General Work - I will just drive up on the RaceRamps (No-slip, solid, 100% safe). The RRs cost
a bit more but there are no other ramps like them.

Word of Caution - When lifting for the rear the Spyder is stable L/R because your front wheels are
on solid surface. When lifting for the front, it is EXTREMELY important to get that jack dead-center
because as you lift the front becomes a balancing act that could get dangerous. If not centered you
will immediately see it tilt to one side. Best to stop there, lower the jack, and center it better.

for the reply. The question was specific for the F3,which has no center rail frame ,the way I see it. I had no problem with the ST. The way I read your post, I should jack up from under the swing arm/rear shock? thanks, Peter
 
The F3 has a center "rail" that's about 4" wide down the center, and travels from
just in-front of the cat (looking from the side) and up to where the swaybar is housed.
In the rear I keep the jack just forward of the hinged area on it.

(On the ramps... I'm lovin' the Raceramp RR30's. Although not their tallest, but I like
to put them in back of the front wheels facing ramp forward, then back up onto them so the
ramp section itself is forward of the wheels and I have 100% clear opening under the
maching. And the DO NOT slip. They also have a depression in the top and an edge stop.
 
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