How Long a Ramp for Spyder

[Dan_Ashley]

This was originally posted in another thread. Someone PM'ed me and said that other people might get some value out of it if it were more "searchable". So, here it is in its own thread.

Dan

To keep the nose from "bottoming out" here is how to figure out how long a ramp you need.
Here is the base formula:
ramp length needed = (height from ground to bed of trailer) divided by (minimum clearance) then multiply the result by (distance from nose to front tires)


The spyder has 4" of clearance. ...use this number not the 4 1/2 inches. This will give you "goof room" later.


My 2012 RT measures 17.5 inches from the tip of the nose to a perpendicular line drawn from where each front tire touches the ground.
If you have a different year, make sure you measure this for yourself. Don't trust that there have been no changes. Measure it. Draw a line from under the front of the front right tire to the front of the left tire--where the tire touches the ground. Then measure from the tip of the nose to the line.


Measure with a tape measure the distance from the TOP of the bed of the trailer to the ground with the trailer being level.


Divide the measurement to the ground by 4.
Multiply the result by 17.5 if you have a 2012. Use your number that you got from measuring the distance from the nose to the tire line if you do not have a 2012 RT. If you are unsure, as if you measured it three times and got three different numbers, use the largest number. This will give you "goof room."


So if the trailer is 14" off the ground you need a ramp that is:


14 divided by 4 equals 3.5
3.5 multiplied by 17.5 equals 61.25 ...this is the minimum ramp length in inches.
So get a six long ramp.
Make sure the ramps you use are at least 12" wide. The front tires are wider than you expect, and if you miss the ramp, or drive off the ramp you will not get good results.


My trailer is 14" off the ground.
I use a 5' long by 18" wide ramp for the back tire and
two 6' by 12" wide ramps for the front tires.


I purchased my ramps at discountramps.com

 

[Bob Denman]

Thanks! :thumbup:
:shocked: But...

 

[billybovine]

With my trailer and my 2013 ST the catalytic converter will hit the top of the ramp before the nose will hit the bottom. So I have to remember to always to make sure the front of the trailer is jacked up higher then the rear.

I have a little more clearance already because of the chunks ripped out of the top of the ramp. :roflblack:

 

[Bob Denman]

I have a little more clearance already because of the chunks ripped out of the top of the ramp. :roflblack:

See? Problem solved! :thumbup:

 

[Dan_Ashley]

With my trailer and my 2013 ST the catalytic converter will hit the top of the ramp before the nose will hit the bottom. So I have to remember to always to make sure the front of the trailer is jacked up higher then the rear.

I have a little more clearance already because of the chunks ripped out of the top of the ramp. :roflblack:

Longer front wheel ramps and a little shorter rear wheel ramp causes the front nose and under-stuff to rise up and out of the way before the rear wheel get involved with the angle change. Also, too much of an angle change from the ramp to the trailer can cause high centering. That is why I said to use 4" in the calculation instead of 4.5". This provides an11% margin of error. If you want a larger margin of error, just add an extra 12" or so to the length of the ramp.

There are two angle changes to worry about. 1) from the ground starting up the ramp. 2) from the ramp to the trailer.

 

[dadof4]

I use this without ramps.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?59101-Tilting-Trailer

 

[schnauzermom]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=72309&d=137450741

From previous post.......these ramps work great anywhere. Just place over lowered ramp. Just drive the two front wheels on ramps and the rear single wheel will track in between up the ramp This photo just doesn't show a trailer with a ramp.

 

[Dan_Ashley]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=72309&d=137450741

From previous post.......these ramps work great anywhere. Just place over lowered ramp. Just drive the two front wheels on ramps and the rear single wheel will track in between up the ramp This photo just doesn't show a trailer with a ramp.

that's a really good idea.

 

[GDoc]

Thanks Dan for the post.

I just ordered 3 ramps, 8 feet long by 19 inches wide for my 2016 Spyder RTS. I decided on the longer ramps for my Spyder and my son's bikes, just for a little more "goof room". I also spoke with them about doing some research on the Spyders and Rykers. I told them the word is out, Discount Ramps has the best ramps. But nothing on the Can-Am Spyders or Rykers! I also told him that Discount Ramps were falling behind, why has no one done the research yet?! I told my Rep with Discount Ramps not to take this wrong way, this was a heads up for them. Spyders and Rykers are growing big time all over the world. Dan, you're posting of this info is right on, it helped me out on which ramps to buy, AND if it were not for Spyderlovers, this info would not be out here for us Spyder and Ryker Riders. We would have a tough time finding the right ramps. Again thanks Dan.

When I get the Ramps in, I'll take some pics loading the Spyder

I hope I didn't step on anyone's toes mentioning Discount Ramps in this forum. Don

 

[Peter Aawen]

GDoc, it certainly doesn't hurt to add info to the knowledge & experience pool here like you have with your post above; but please, don't expect any rapid responses or answers from Dan, since he started this thread waaaayyy back in March 2014 and he hasn't been active on the Forum since 2016! :shocked: He might still be around & may even be riding his Spyder still, so he might see this, but he would have to send a Contact Us message to Admin to re-activate his account before replying (leave your account un-used for too long & it'll become a security risk - an invitation/easy way in for hackers/scammers/spammers - so they are de-activated after about a year. )

That's why you'll often see the ldpost: emoji; and why it ALWAYS pays to check the first post in any thread (to see when it started) and the last few posts in the thread (to see how recently it's been used/responded to!) before replying &/or adding info/knowledge/experience. :thumbup: