How do you grease the fittings on top of the A arms?

[Bert715]

How do you grease the fittings on top of the A arms and are those grease fittings metric threaded or pushins, in case I want to change then to 45 or 90s?

 

[NancysToy]

There have been several approaches:
a) Remove the front cargo compartment (trunk)
b) Replace the fittings with 90 degree fittings (usually requires trunk removal and the fittings may not point the right direction.)
c) Use a 90 degree adapter for the grease gun (May have to be modified to fit)
d) Have a dealer do it

In the end, some may still not take grease well. It seems some of the holes/slots in the bushings are not aligned with the grease fittings.

 

[Bob Denman]

A lot of swearing helps too :roflblack:

 

[sinkhole]

grease...

For as infrequently as it needs to be done, I find removing the frunk is the best way to approach this task.

 

[fastfraser]

I put 90 Degree serks on the hard to reach fittings as well as a 90 degree fitting on a flex hose on my grease gun.:thumbup:

 

[Spyderjockey]

I went to 90 and 45 deg. zerks and 2 lenghts of the flexible hose. Some of the zerks don't seem to take grease too well no matter what you do. I usually try to grease them every time I change the oil.......but that is the worst part of the whole procedure.:gaah:

 

[Tonga]

I bought 2 90 degree fittings before I got one that would work. I also have two flex line attached together to reach in. Still a job getting the upper rear ones but it does work and I only do it every other oil change.

 

[NancysToy]

I have two grease zerks that will not take grease. I removed and tested them to see if they would pass grease and found that they work fine. Therefore, if they are ok then how is one supposed to get grease to the bushing ? :dontknow:

The usual cause for zerks that will not take grease is not plugged fittings, but bushings that have the grease holes misaligned with the inlet and fitting. You can't pump the grease against a solid bushing. Most dealers seem reluctant to address this. They will usually just make some feeble behind the scenes attempt to grease the bushings, and say they are fine, although some may remove the trunk and force-feed the fittings. The only cure is to remove the A-arms and realign the bushings, but it is hard to convince them to take the time...or to convince BRP to pay for it. I prefer to just wait until the misaligned bushings wear out (sooner than normal) and line the new ones up when I replace them. Of course that means checking for front suspension looseness and play frequently.

 

[cjackg]

On the 2012 RTs BRP changed to angled fittings.... maybe they really are listening !

 

[BajaRon]

The usual cause for zerks that will not take grease is not plugged fittings, but bushings that have the grease holes misaligned with the inlet and fitting. You can't pump the grease against a solid bushing. Most dealers seem reluctant to address this. They will usually just make some feeble behind the scenes attempt to grease the bushings, and say they are fine, although some may remove the trunk and force-feed the fittings. The only cure is to remove the A-arms and realign the bushings, but it is hard to convince them to take the time...or to convince BRP to pay for it. I prefer to just wait until the misaligned bushings wear out (sooner than normal) and line the new ones up when I replace them. Of course that means checking for front suspension looseness and play frequently.

Lamont and I just put 16 of these bushings in my Spyder (2 for each joint), there were no grooves, holes, or anything to align with the grease zerks. Because the bushings are split and the grease zerk is in the middle I assume that the grease is simply supposed to go between the bushings at the split. I don't see any other way they could work.

 

[NancysToy]

Lamont and I just put 16 of these bushings in my Spyder (2 for each joint), there were no grooves, holes, or anything to align with the grease zerks. Because the bushings are split and the grease zerk is in the middle I assume that the grease is simply supposed to go between the bushings at the split. I don't see any other way they could work.

That is common with split bushings. Sometimes the problem is hardened grease in the split, or too long of bushings so there is not much of a split when installed. Thanks for letting us know what type the Spyder has. I'll check the length carfully when I replace them.

 

[Jeriatric]

Lamont and I just put 16 of these bushings in my Spyder (2 for each joint), there were no grooves, holes, or anything to align with the grease zerks. Because the bushings are split and the grease zerk is in the middle I assume that the grease is simply supposed to go between the bushings at the split. I don't see any other way they could work.

Ron,

Do you think this would be a good place to use white lithium grease? It's not prone to harden, melt, or freeze. And it's of a viscosity that would lend itself to entering the split. Just me thinking out loud again

 

[NancysToy]

Ron,

Do you think this would be a good place to use white lithium grease? It's not prone to harden, melt, or freeze. And it's of a viscosity that would lend itself to entering the split. Just me thinking out loud again

Use the waterproof grease that BRP recommends. JMHO

 

[BajaRon]

Ron,

Do you think this would be a good place to use white lithium grease? It's not prone to harden, melt, or freeze. And it's of a viscosity that would lend itself to entering the split. Just me thinking out loud again

I'd stick with the recommended grease. I don't think there was any issue on my Spyder with hardening, etc., I think the grease was doing its job.

Personally I think the bushings could probably be of a better material, but that is just my opinion.

Having said that I did not do proper maintenance (greasing) of these bushings so I lay what I consider premature failure on myself this time around. I plan to grease this new set much more often. We'll see how far they go. I do know that a lot hinges on the health of these bushings and that the top ones (which are harder to get grease to) wear more readily than the lowers.

 

[NancysToy]

.....Personally I think the bushings could probably be of a better material, but that is just my opinion.

:agree: I'm guessing the bushings are poly? Urethane would be an improvement, if so. Maybe I'll have a set of bronze ones machined, just for fun. I think grease grooves at the top of the bushings might help, too...but that would require a means of locating them and preventing movement.

 

[Big Arm]

How do you grease the fittings on top of the A arms and are those grease fittings metric threaded or pushins, in case I want to change then to 45 or 90s?

They are threaded, and are metric, and 6mm.

 

[Lamonster]

:agree: I'm guessing the bushings are poly? Urethane would be an improvement, if so. Maybe I'll have a set of bronze ones machined, just for fun. I think grease grooves at the top of the bushings might help, too...but that would require a means of locating them and preventing movement.

:lecturef_smilie:
These inserts are call cushions and not bushings, the bushing is made of steel and in this case harder is not necessarily better. This is a built in weak point, I rather replace the plastic inserts than $142.00 a-arms.

 

[NancysToy]

:lecturef_smilie:
These inserts are call cushions and not bushings, the bushing is made of steel and in this case harder is not necessarily better. This is a built in weak point, I rather replace the plastic inserts than $142.00 a-arms.

I have not had this assembly apart, so forgive my ignorance. Let me see if I have this straight...there is a steel sleeve with a plastic "cushion" inside it? Is the sleeve an integral part of the a-arm or inserted in it? I know the end of the arm is still tubing, but is there an additional steel sleeve inside that? The main problem we seem to be having is that many of the joints will not take grease....even from day one. I have two such balky joints on my 2011 RT. These joints will wear much more quickly, and the inserts will have to be replaced prematurely. There has to be a better answer...including the possibility of bronze or oil-lite inserts. Nobody wants t ohave to dismantle a Spyder and replace the inserts every few thousand miles!

 

[Lamonster]

I have not had this assembly apart, so forgive my ignorance. Let me see if I have this straight...there is a steel sleeve with a plastic "cushion" inside it? Is the sleeve an integral part of the a-arm or inserted in it? I know the end of the arm is still tubing, but is there an additional steel sleeve inside that? The main problem we seem to be having is that many of the joints will not take grease....even from day one. I have two such balky joints on my 2011 RT. These joints will wear much more quickly, and the inserts will have to be replaced prematurely. There has to be a better answer...including the possibility of bronze or oil-lite inserts. Nobody wants t ohave to dismantle a Spyder and replace the inserts every few thousand miles!

As the picture shows you have the plastic cushions (two pieces) that go into the a-arm. The steel bushing goes into the plastic cushions.
There is no reason for the grease not to be able to get to the steal bushing unless you have a dirty or bad zirk fitting.

 

[BajaRon]

:lecturef_smilie:
These inserts are call cushions and not bushings, the bushing is made of steel and in this case harder is not necessarily better. This is a built in weak point, I rather replace the plastic inserts than $142.00 a-arms.

I am not sure these parts descriptions by BRP are all that accurate. Potato, Pototo...

The rubber parts do the job of a bushing so I would call them bushings. The steel tube works as an inner sleeve. I suppose we really have a 3 part 'Bushing' assembly.

But calling them by their given names will help you find them in the parts catalog.

Suffice it to say that if you're not lubing these assemblies for whatever reason, be it ignorance, laziness, or just plain bad zerks it is going to bring you a fair amount of grief.