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How do i (really my Hubby) change the rear tire on 2014 RT

Hi Ruthie

My Kumho 225-50 15 tire will be here today. Any advise in changing the tire?


Contact your dealer. If they say they won't change it for you, offer to sign a waiver. My dealer said they'd change mine but I'd have to sign a waiver. Of course, I signed it. All it was was a disclaimer hand-written on the receipt.
 
Cooperman, my dealer will installed the tire, it want they want to charge to do it.
 
Try this..!!

Short video will help. Search lamonsters videos where he does a rear wheel removal. A shop manual would help you a lot.. It will have the spec's and torques needed...:thumbup:
 
I haven't seen Lamonster's video and he may cover this but if not, I want to mention it. When removing the rear wheel, if you remove the lower rear shock mounting bolt it will allow the swing arm to drop down far enough that the drive belt can be simply slipped off the sprocket. The wheel can then be removed and when it's put back the drive belt can be slipped back on the sprocket and the swingarm lifted into place and the lower shock mounting bolt reinstalled. Since nothing was changed, the drive belt is still in adjustment. Makes the job of removing the rear wheel much easier. I've done it twice now on mine and it works fine.

Cotton
 
I haven't seen Lamonster's video and he may cover this but if not, I want to mention it. When removing the rear wheel, if you remove the lower rear shock mounting bolt it will allow the swing arm to drop down far enough that the drive belt can be simply slipped off the sprocket. The wheel can then be removed and when it's put back the drive belt can be slipped back on the sprocket and the swingarm lifted into place and the lower shock mounting bolt reinstalled. Since nothing was changed, the drive belt is still in adjustment. Makes the job of removing the rear wheel much easier. I've done it twice now on mine and it works fine.

Cotton

Interesting. So with that method you wouldn't mess with the adjusters/alignment? Just remove and replace the axle bolt?
 
Interesting. So with that method you wouldn't mess with the adjusters/alignment? Just remove and replace the axle bolt?

If you have ever messed with the axel you will find there is enough slop in the adjusters that just tightening the axel nut can cause the belt not to track. So you have to fiddle with it. If you for sure do not want to change the adjuster positions, then you will have to trial and error loosening and retightening the axel. Again it is a bit fiddly to mess with and can be frustrating :banghead:

First time I adjusted my belt I thought... WELL THIS IS EASY! Until I then tightened the axel nut and it went out of spec. Had to mess with the adjuster, tighten, loosen, adjust, etc... Again can get a little frustrating.

One thing I did find though is if you snug the axel nut up and then drop the tire on the ground and then torque it, this helps it not move as much when tightening.

Bob
 
You do NOT have to remove the rear shock. Loosen the axle bolt then raise the rear wheel until it just clears, pull the axle and then jack the frame up until the rear wheel can be pulled under the rear fender. After changing the tire, set the wheel and lower the frame so that the axle can be slid through the wheel with a minimum of lifting. Tighten and torque the axle then place the belt on top of the rear sprocket and holding it in position with one hand, use the other to rotate the rear wheel backwards and the belt will slide onto the sprocket. Check the belt alignment, but since you haven't loosened or removed any of the alignment bolts, you should be back where you started, with alignment and tension unchanged. I've used this method successfully several times and not had to realign or tension the belt.
 
If you have ever messed with the axel you will find there is enough slop in the adjusters that just tightening the axel nut can cause the belt not to track. So you have to fiddle with it. If you for sure do not want to change the adjuster positions, then you will have to trial and error loosening and retightening the axel. Again it is a bit fiddly to mess with and can be frustrating :banghead:

First time I adjusted my belt I thought... WELL THIS IS EASY! Until I then tightened the axel nut and it went out of spec. Had to mess with the adjuster, tighten, loosen, adjust, etc... Again can get a little frustrating.

One thing I did find though is if you snug the axel nut up and then drop the tire on the ground and then torque it, this helps it not move as much when tightening.

Bob

I agree that tightening the axle nut could cause the axle to move out of alignment but I haven't had that happen yet. Maybe it's because I did as you said and snugged up the axle nut, then torqued it after it was back on the ground. Both times I did it, I checked it visually rotating the wheel by hand and the belt was still tracking properly. Then I took it for a short ride and checked it afterward and it was still good. Later, when it was in the shop for a service, alignment and tension was checked and it was still good.

Cotton
 
Short video will help. Search lamonsters videos where he does a rear wheel removal. A shop manual would help you a lot.. It will have the spec's and torques needed...:thumbup:

Any idea where I might find this video from LaMonster?

Thanks

Pam
 
If you have ever messed with the axel you will find there is enough slop in the adjusters that just tightening the axel nut can cause the belt not to track. So you have to fiddle with it. If you for sure do not want to change the adjuster positions, then you will have to trial and error loosening and retightening the axel. Again it is a bit fiddly to mess with and can be frustrating :banghead:

First time I adjusted my belt I thought... WELL THIS IS EASY! Until I then tightened the axel nut and it went out of spec. Had to mess with the adjuster, tighten, loosen, adjust, etc... Again can get a little frustrating.

One thing I did find though is if you snug the axel nut up and then drop the tire on the ground and then torque it, this helps it not move as much when tightening.

Bob

I agree! Getting mine lined back out was not easy. I would set it and spin it and it looked good, then go for a quick test and come back and it would be half off the sprocket. Finally figured out to tap the right side as I tightened it to keep it from walking. It was pretty straightforward then.

Whatever you do, Pampurs, make sure of that belt alignment when you are done. And if you don't have a cricket I wouldn't even start.
 
I agree! Getting mine lined back out was not easy. I would set it and spin it and it looked good, then go for a quick test and come back and it would be half off the sprocket. Finally figured out to tap the right side as I tightened it to keep it from walking. It was pretty straightforward then.

Whatever you do, Pampurs, make sure of that belt alignment when you are done. And if you don't have a cricket I wouldn't even start.

I have a Kriket. But I was under the impression from Finless' video that the tension would not change.

Pam
 
Contact your dealer. If they say they won't change it for you, offer to sign a waiver. My dealer said they'd change mine but I'd have to sign a waiver. Of course, I signed it. All it was was a disclaimer hand-written on the receipt.

the only waivers i will write at my place is clearly stating that the tire/wheel will not be used on a car, legally anything less the waiver
is worthless
 
Axle nut torque

I found that I was not getting the axle nut tight enough, and then the belt would go out of adjustment. When I finally got a torque wrench and tightened it to the specified 96 lb ft the axle stayed put and the belt stayed centered on the sprocket.
 
I have a Kriket. But I was under the impression from Finless' video that the tension would not change.

Pam

If you do not turn the adjuster screws and make sure the adjuster blocks are tight against the swing arm frame, your belt tension will not change.

Bob
 
If you do not turn the adjuster screws and make sure the adjuster blocks are tight against the swing arm frame, your belt tension will not change.

Bob

We put a piece of tape on the axle adjusters to keep them from moving and then like you say make sure they are tight against the frame. Works every time.
 
If you do not turn the adjuster screws and make sure the adjuster blocks are tight against the swing arm frame, your belt tension will not change.

Bob

I'm a bit confused about what you mean by this, but hopefully I'll figure it out when I actually perform the work.

Thanks

Pam
 
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