My Kumho 225-50 15 tire will be here today. Any advise in changing the tire?
I haven't seen Lamonster's video and he may cover this but if not, I want to mention it. When removing the rear wheel, if you remove the lower rear shock mounting bolt it will allow the swing arm to drop down far enough that the drive belt can be simply slipped off the sprocket. The wheel can then be removed and when it's put back the drive belt can be slipped back on the sprocket and the swingarm lifted into place and the lower shock mounting bolt reinstalled. Since nothing was changed, the drive belt is still in adjustment. Makes the job of removing the rear wheel much easier. I've done it twice now on mine and it works fine.
Cotton
Interesting. So with that method you wouldn't mess with the adjusters/alignment? Just remove and replace the axle bolt?
If you have ever messed with the axel you will find there is enough slop in the adjusters that just tightening the axel nut can cause the belt not to track. So you have to fiddle with it. If you for sure do not want to change the adjuster positions, then you will have to trial and error loosening and retightening the axel. Again it is a bit fiddly to mess with and can be frustrating :banghead:
First time I adjusted my belt I thought... WELL THIS IS EASY! Until I then tightened the axel nut and it went out of spec. Had to mess with the adjuster, tighten, loosen, adjust, etc... Again can get a little frustrating.
One thing I did find though is if you snug the axel nut up and then drop the tire on the ground and then torque it, this helps it not move as much when tightening.
Bob
Short video will help. Search lamonsters videos where he does a rear wheel removal. A shop manual would help you a lot.. It will have the spec's and torques needed...:thumbup:
If you have ever messed with the axel you will find there is enough slop in the adjusters that just tightening the axel nut can cause the belt not to track. So you have to fiddle with it. If you for sure do not want to change the adjuster positions, then you will have to trial and error loosening and retightening the axel. Again it is a bit fiddly to mess with and can be frustrating :banghead:
First time I adjusted my belt I thought... WELL THIS IS EASY! Until I then tightened the axel nut and it went out of spec. Had to mess with the adjuster, tighten, loosen, adjust, etc... Again can get a little frustrating.
One thing I did find though is if you snug the axel nut up and then drop the tire on the ground and then torque it, this helps it not move as much when tightening.
Bob
I agree! Getting mine lined back out was not easy. I would set it and spin it and it looked good, then go for a quick test and come back and it would be half off the sprocket. Finally figured out to tap the right side as I tightened it to keep it from walking. It was pretty straightforward then.
Whatever you do, Pampurs, make sure of that belt alignment when you are done. And if you don't have a cricket I wouldn't even start.
Contact your dealer. If they say they won't change it for you, offer to sign a waiver. My dealer said they'd change mine but I'd have to sign a waiver. Of course, I signed it. All it was was a disclaimer hand-written on the receipt.
I have a Kriket. But I was under the impression from Finless' video that the tension would not change.
Pam
If you do not turn the adjuster screws and make sure the adjuster blocks are tight against the swing arm frame, your belt tension will not change.
Bob
If you do not turn the adjuster screws and make sure the adjuster blocks are tight against the swing arm frame, your belt tension will not change.
Bob