How do i (really my Hubby) change the rear tire on 2014 RT

[NautiBrit]

I'm a bit confused about what you mean by this, but hopefully I'll figure it out when I actually perform the work.

Thanks

Pam

Pam,

I've done this several times and can help you through it, if you wish. The "blocks" refer to the end caps that the adjustment screws go through.

 

[Pampurrs]

Pam,

I've done this several times and can help you through it, if you wish. The "blocks" refer to the end caps that the adjustment screws go through.

Thanks George. I need all the help I can get, LOL

I'll probably get through this and go, "Gee, that wasn't as hard as I thought it would be". Isn't that the way it always goes? :roflblack:

Pam

 

[SpyderAnn01]

I went out to the garage to take a picture of the axle adjuster but I have a trailer hitch on my bike but fortunately s customer dropped off their Spyder so here is s picture.

 

[Pampurrs]

I went out to the garage to take a picture of the axle adjuster but I have a trailer hitch on my bike but fortunately s customer dropped off their Spyder so here is s picture.

Thanks Ann. So that nut is what I'm supposed to put the tape over?

Pam

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Thanks Ann. So that nut is what I'm supposed to put the tape over?

Pam

Yep, run a piece over the top and bottom of the whole piece on each axle and it will keep it from falling off. If it falls and you don't get it back on in the same position you will screw up your belt alignment.

 

[Pampurrs]

Yep, run a piece over the top and bottom of the whole piece on each axle and it will keep it from falling off. If it falls and you don't get it back on in the same position you will screw up your belt alignment.

:thumbup: Thanks bunches!

Pam

 

[finless]

My video talks a LOT about these adjusters and why they need to be tight against the swing arm frame.

I never tried the tape idea and next time I will but my video shows you they should NOT wiggle in the swing arm frame!
If they wiggle then you moved them out when you tightened the axle.....

Pam.... I also will help you but it is very important in my video that they are tight and you cannot wiggle them. Did that make better sense?

But I am a little worried that if you did not get these basic concepts, maybe you should not do the work? Not trying to be harsh and I want to see you do the work and be successful, but some of this is pretty basic concepts. Again if I can help just let me know!

In fact... I would be willing to ride out to AZ since your close... Put me up for the night and buy me dinner and I will help you for the day

Catch a person a fish and feed them for a day.... teach someone to fish and they eat for a life time... That is my motto
I would be glad to come out and teach if you want.... You do the wrenching and I will make sure you get it right....

AZ is not far depending on where you are in AZ?

Bob

 

[Pampurrs]

My video talks a LOT about these adjusters and why they need to be tight against the swing arm frame.

I never tried the tape idea and next time I will but my video shows you they should NOT wiggle in the swing arm frame!
If they wiggle then you moved them out when you tightened the axle.....

Pam.... I also will help you but it is very important in my video that they are tight and you cannot wiggle them. Did that make better sense?

But I am a little worried that if you did not get these basic concepts, maybe you should not do the work? Not trying to be harsh and I want to see you do the work and be successful, but some of this is pretty basic concepts. Again if I can help just let me know!

In fact... I would be willing to ride out to AZ since your close... Put me up for the night and buy me dinner and I will help you for the day

Catch a person a fish and feed them for a day.... teach someone to fish and they eat for a life time... That is my motto
I would be glad to come out and teach if you want.... AZ is not far depending on where you are in AZ.....

Bob

Bob, I highly respect you and your advice. I would be honored to have you as a guest in my home, and of course would welcome your counsel.

Judging from the tread depth on my rear tire, I may still be 6,000 miles away from needing to change. For me, that could be 2-3 months. At this point, I'm just trying to get ahead of the game as far as knowing what I need to do. As you know, I love to wrench my own bike, but there is a learning curve to everything, and the Spyder is new territory for me.

Cheers,

Pam

 

[trikermutha]

I just changed my rear a month ago or so and it was pretty easy..I even loosened up the adjusters 3 full turns to take off the belt..
Now when putting it back together I just reversed what I did. One thing is to tighten the axle nut just enough to start the belt tension/ alignment process. once set torgue the axle nut .recheck the belt tension in the rear wheel off the ground. hyea:

If you are not comfortable doing this then take it into the dealer..:thumbup:

 

[Pampurrs]

I just changed my rear a month ago or so and it was pretty easy..I even loosened up the adjusters 3 full turns to take off the belt..
Now when putting it back together I just reversed what I did. One thing is to tighten the axle nut just enough to start the belt tension/ alignment process. once set torgue the axle nut .recheck the belt tension in the rear wheel off the ground. hyea:

If you are not comfortable doing this then take it into the dealer..:thumbup:

I'll be comfortable doing it once I do it. Just like everything else I have learned to do that people told me I couldn't do. :dg1:

Pam

 

[finless]

Bob, I highly respect you and your advice. I would be honored to have you as a guest in my home, and of course would welcome your counsel.

Judging from the tread depth on my rear tire, I may still be 6,000 miles away from needing to change. For me, that could be 2-3 months. At this point, I'm just trying to get ahead of the game as far as knowing what I need to do. As you know, I love to wrench my own bike, but there is a learning curve to everything, and the Spyder is new territory for me.

Cheers,

Pam

Here is all I can say.... GO FOR IT GIRL! Go for it....

If you fail some of us will be here to help you.

Bob

 

[pegasus1300]

Pam
From your previous posts I know you are no novice at wrenching. Since you have watched Bob's video and read what is posted on this site you will not have any trouble. Just remember to let the rear wheel down before doing the final torque and you will be fine. I just did my first tire change on a Spyder the end of July and it was fairly simple. I also took off the disk and the sprocket so my local tire store could mount the tire. He had no problem mounting or balancing. I did spray glass cleaner into the rubber snubbers so the sprocket would be easy to re install.

 

[Pampurrs]

Pam
From your previous posts I know you are no novice at wrenching. Since you have watched Bob's video and read what is posted on this site you will not have any trouble. Just remember to let the rear wheel down before doing the final torque and you will be fine. I just did my first tire change on a Spyder the end of July and it was fairly simple. I also took off the disk and the sprocket so my local tire store could mount the tire. He had no problem mounting or balancing. I did spray glass cleaner into the rubber snubbers so the sprocket would be easy to re install.

Thank you!!!!!!


Pam

 

[brerrabbit]

Couple things

I was working on the 2014 Spyder RT today and found a couple things not mentioned about removing the rear wheel.

1. What is best practice for dealing with the parking brake alarm while removing the rear wheel. I ended up removing the cable end and then ‘setting’ the park brake.
2. When dropping the swing arm for clearance to remove the wheel with lower shock bolt removed, you may have to remove the various brackets for the brake fluid line and the speed sensor wire along the swing arm. The sensor wire can get pretty stretched as the bike is raised if you don’t notice it.
3. Brake caliper – I found that to be the worst part of the job. I tried clamps, no good. I removed the pads and tried screwing the piston back in. It turned very hard but would not retract. I thought maybe I had ruined the ‘threads’ by using the clamp or had the piston cocked so it was locked against the bore. I tried turning it counter clockwise and I could see it move out but it would not retract. I pulled the park brake lever and the piston moved out even farther. I tried loosening the bleed screw and turning it. Still would not move in. Finally, I tried pulling the park brake lever all the way in the setting direction. It moves a long ways beyond what the cable can pull it. The piston then turned very easily in the clockwise direction as you are looking at the piston face. It retracted very nicely.

There is a very nice thread about the piston retraction process but no mention of the park brake lever. It is mentioned in the brake pad replacement procedure but is not clear about which way to move it. It seemed counter intuitive to me. Pull in setting direction while piston moved out then it released the piston and allowed the piston to retract?

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?77492-Rear-caliper-question&highlight=brake caliper

=bob=

 

[Sarge707]

You do NOT have to remove the rear shock. Loosen the axle bolt then raise the rear wheel until it just clears, pull the axle and then jack the frame up until the rear wheel can be pulled under the rear fender. After changing the tire, set the wheel and lower the frame so that the axle can be slid through the wheel with a minimum of lifting. Tighten and torque the axle then place the belt on top of the rear sprocket and holding it in position with one hand, use the other to rotate the rear wheel backwards and the belt will slide onto the sprocket. Check the belt alignment, but since you haven't loosened or removed any of the alignment bolts, you should be back where you started, with alignment and tension unchanged. I've used this method successfully several times and not had to realign or tension the belt.

Having done it the "remove shock bolt" way on my 09 GS- This way struck me as a Easier way to do it on my 2012 RT soon.
If "As Posted above" you initially removed the axle- The wheel would move slightly forward and the belt would come off easily?
My only questions would be -Do you still have to remove the brake caliper ?
At 67 I,m always looking for a way NOT to have to get down on my knees to remove a shock bolt.
Anyone else do it this way "ABOVE!":dontknow:

 

[Deanna777]

Contact your dealer. If they say they won't change it for you, offer to sign a waiver. My dealer said they'd change mine but I'd have to sign a waiver. Of course, I signed it. All it was was a disclaimer hand-written on the receipt.

I had my dealership install my rear tire( General Altimax RT 43) and I also had to sign a waiver.

My waiver said *** This is not the correct design of size for this unit, customer assumes all responsibility. Customer states ** mount and balance rear tire, purchased elsewhere.*** My was on a Repair Order Invoice. Deanna

 

[trikermutha]

Having done it the "remove shock bolt" way on my 09 GS- This way struck me as a Easier way to do it on my 2012 RT soon.
If "As Posted above" you initially removed the axle- The wheel would move slightly forward and the belt would come off easily?
My only questions would be -Do you still have to remove the brake caliper ?
At 67 I,m always looking for a way NOT to have to get down on my knees to remove a shock bolt.
Anyone else do it this way "ABOVE!":dontknow:

I didn't remove the shock bolt but I had at 2014..Just removed the rear brake,hitch and axle.

 

[NautiBrit]

Having done it the "remove shock bolt" way on my 09 GS- This way struck me as a Easier way to do it on my 2012 RT soon.
If "As Posted above" you initially removed the axle- The wheel would move slightly forward and the belt would come off easily?
My only questions would be -Do you still have to remove the brake caliper ?
At 67 I,m always looking for a way NOT to have to get down on my knees to remove a shock bolt.
Anyone else do it this way "ABOVE!":dontknow:

Yes, you do need to remove the brake caliper.