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How did you power( wire) your heated gear?

Robertsepolen

New member
Want to make sure I have this right before we start doing any cold weather riding.
Easier to ask than to trial and error.
 
I installed an Eastern Beaver 3CS fuse block, then installed Powerlet outlets in the speaker grills and at the rear where the comm system connector would go if I had the BRP comm system. Powerlet also makes the necessary coax adapters. Previously I have run the heated gear harnesses to the fuse block, but I don't like the loose cords under the seat. If pinched between the seat and the frame, they can short out. I do not recommend going directly to the battery with either the Powerlets or harnesses, because too many connections there increase the chances of electrolysis and corrosion problems. You can usually go to the positive jumper terminal (starter relay) under the seat safely, but you will have to find a ground connection elsewhere. Do not use the negative jumper terminal under the seat! The bolt will just spin, if loosened, and will almost assuredly cause electrical problems. It is very hard to tighten again.
 
Gerbings

As Scotty mentioned, going to the battery is an iffy proposition. I used the solenoid connection,and ran a ground to a bolt next to the battery. The fuses tuck nicely away in the hole where the solenoid wiring comes through. The Gerbing wiring comes with waterproof caps on the business end. There is a area just forward of the battery under the seat where the aft wires pass through with no pinch point. The front wire is anchored just aft of the glovebox and stays tucked in the hole underneath when not in use.Again, snakes up next to the glovebox for use with no pinch points.

Warmly, Patrick


Oh, we don't always ride in South Carolina.
 
As Scotty mentioned, going to the battery is an iffy proposition. I used the solenoid connection,and ran a ground to a bolt next to the battery. The fuses tuck nicely away in the hole where the solenoid wiring comes through. The Gerbing wiring comes with waterproof caps on the business end. There is a area just forward of the battery under the seat where the aft wires pass through with no pinch point. The front wire is anchored just aft of the glovebox and stays tucked in the hole underneath when not in use.Again, snakes up next to the glovebox for use with no pinch points.

Warmly, Patrick


Oh, we don't always ride in South Carolina.

I installed mine this way also but just tapped the push pin hole right next to the solenoid (+ jumper) for a 3/8" bolt. This gave good ground point. I will look into adding plugins as I don't like the wires hanging from under of out the front of the seat.

I got a full jacket liner from FAFrum.com with 4 level digital controller for $139 shipped. I only had two chances to ride with it but even on low it only took 1 minute to reach full heat and was still very warm when riding at 40 degrees.
 
I ran wires from the battery all the way to the frunk where I installed a Blue Sea fuse box.

I ran a 30 amp fuse in the main power wire and also a 30 amp relay, so this power goes on and off with the switch.

I run all the toys off the fuse box, including a powerlet connection to the heated gear.

The powerlet connection is inline, with a spring loaded cap which seals it when not in use. I have this on a pigtail which I keep under the oil access panel on the left side. Whne I want to use the heated gear, I slip the powerlet out and just let it stay there.

This way, when I need it, it's available, but if I'm not using it, it's out of the way.
 
.....I will look into adding plugins as I don't like the wires hanging from under of out the front of the seat......

Gerbing sells a Powerlet type of oututlet that plugs into a coax connector, so you can just extend your existing pigtail. You may need a coax extension to reach the speaker grills or dash. It would save some rewiring, although the Gerbing outlet isn't as sturdy as the Powerlet outlets. I extended the original coax pigtail in the rear this way.
 
I went the direct to the battery route & ran the leads up through the hole the rear seat passenger sensor goes through. I even zip tied the Gerbing leads to that wire so I can always fish them out. When not in use, I stuff them down the hole. (I have two leads) I also use the leads for battery tender and a standard 12v receptacle ("cigarette lighter") to allow me to use cell charger or portable air compressor. Since the Gerbing has a 15A fuse on the positive lead, I feel I'm safe. No problems with chaffing or pinching when they are out under the lip of the saddle.

They are HOT all the time!

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So fuse position 3 says 'spare'. Is this a safe place to take power from?

By the way I am in Japan so can't go look at what you guys are talking about until I get home. I do have the manual with me on my phone.
 
I'd stay away from the main fuse box. For one thing, it is probably more difficult to access properly than the battery. I do not think you will find the necessary terminals there, either, so you would have to add hardware. In addition, the maxi-fuses it uses are less common to replace if need be...and may not be readily available in the smaller sizes you would need. There is no existing circuit on the Spyder that is ready to accept hookup up something like heated gear. That is why it is recommended that you install an auxiliary fuse block, or wire directly to the battery in a reliable manner.

Having a readily accessible circuit or two for heated gear isn't a bad idea, though. I hope the BRP engineers take note.
 
A very good idea, but I doubt it will ever happen.
Aside from the 10A power port in the trunk no EE ever wants to expose the power supply to unknown uses.
:agree:, but you can't fault a guy for wishing for something at Christmas time. ;) There are other acceptable alternatives...Powerlet (BMW-type) outlets factory installed, or even coax outlets or pigtails strategically placed.
 
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