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Houston: We've got a Problem!

I spoke with Pete; he thought that something around the micro-switch might have got knocked out of place... it all looks good though.
I called the dealer and spoke to the Tech...
Wear and Tear perhaps???
If the length of that connecting rod was at a minimal setting and just within tolerances, the setup MIGHT have suffered enough wear at the pins and mounting holes to drop it out of tolerance.
I'll tackle that this afternoon!
At least there are some leads to follow... (I love a good mystery!) :thumbup:
 
I finally crawled under mine today as I promised past night and what SpyRd said sounds 'logical' and 'frustrating' in that if you disconnect the rod it is going to affect the line pressure and it needs to be readjusted

as to this point I have simply been checking my lights and tapping the brake pedal when I see them remain on

but I am also going to crawl back under my ride in a few hours (after I go out and do some shopping, etc0, and take my exacto knife to see if I can trim a little off, and also look at the rod assembly to see if there is something else that could be done with it to get the full 'spring back' back.....

it is a Columbo mystery.....
 
Bob Denman said:
I spoke with Pete; he thought that something around the micro-switch might have got knocked out of place... it all looks good though.
I called the dealer and spoke to the Tech...
Wear and Tear perhaps???
If the length of that connecting rod was at a minimal setting and just within tolerances, the setup MIGHT have suffered enough wear at the pins and mounting holes to drop it out of tolerance.
I'll tackle that this afternoon!
At least there are some leads to follow... (I love a good mystery!) :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Bob,

I didn't see any way to "adjust" the connecting rod during my struggle with this same issue.
 
:shocked: Not by me; it isn't! :gaah:
The connecting rod that I hoped had some adjustability; doesn't! :shocked:
The rod going forward and up to the master cylinder does though...
But the shop manual mentions a special tool to tinker with that little time bomb!
36_11_1.gif

1. Can anybody tell me the best way to access it?
2. Can anybody tell me what sort of "Rube-Goldberging" can be done to get around the need for a tool that I don't have?
Thanks!
 
So, since I don't have anything constructive to add to Bob's problem I'll chime in with this......

I added the ISCI handbrake to my RT Limited and no matter how I adjust it, the brake light stays on everytime I hard brake with it. If I use the foot brake alone all works well. If I brake with the handbrake and then pull the foot brake up with my toe, the light goes out. :banghead: I've spent hours trying to get this to work correctly.
 
Bob Denman said:
:shocked: Not by me; it isn't! :gaah:
The connecting rod that I hoped had some adjustability; doesn't! :shocked:
The rod going forward and up to the master cylinder does though...
But the shop manual mentions a special tool to tinker with that little time bomb!
36_11_1.gif

1. Can anybody tell me the best way to access it?
2. Can anybody tell me what sort of "Rube-Goldberging" can be done to get around the need for a tool that I don't have?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Bob,

This time I'm being serious. Take off the part you put on. Then, take it to the dealer and just tell him/her the brake light started staying on after a hard brake was applied. Just so you don't feel like you'll be telling a lie, go apply a hard brake now. Your spyder is still under warranty, isn't it? You may have inadvertently messed up the micro switch.
 
I climbed under mine again today to take a peek and i did 'chip away' a small area where the heat shield might potentially, possibly, have the chance of.... rubbing against the pedal

brake lights out so far, but I will monitor it daily
 
The micro-switch seems to activate and de-activate just fine. :shocked:
I did remove the heat shield to see if that was the cause of the problem; it doesn't seem to be. :gaah:
From what I've been able to find under the bike; the brake pedal isn't quite coming all the way back up to it's normal resting position...
If I could lengthen the connecting rod from the pedal rearward, I'd be singing and dancing! No such luck! :cus:
The only other way that I see to affect the pedal's ride height is in the front rod that I think goes up to the Master Cylinder... :dontknow:


I'm taking another look at what SpyRyd posted; that might hold some promise!
23_33_15.gif

I think I'll go outside and puke :barf:, and then take another run at it...
 
Last edited:
Curiouser and Curiouser...

Well I completely removed the bump stop that the brake pedal rests against...
(Wellllll :opps: ... I removed it to cut some off of it and during the re-installaton process... it went missing! :gaah:)
With NOTHING to stop the pedal from moving through it's entire range of free movement; it dropped back down onto the sytem where the hydraulic pressure put some resistance against it... AND TURNED ON THE BRAKELIGHTS! :yikes:
Now my questiona are:
Where is the pedal return spring hidden"
How do I access it?
Is there a quick and easy way to determine it's state of affairs?
How much of a job is it to replace it?
I think I'm getting somewhere anyway; I found a mallet that I can wedge between my 'Boards and the pedal to give the brakelights a breather! :thumbup:
 
Brake Master Cylinder Rod Adjustment

Bob Denman said:
:shocked: Not by me; it isn't! :gaah:
The connecting rod that I hoped had some adjustability; doesn't! :shocked:
The rod going forward and up to the master cylinder does though...
But the shop manual mentions a special tool to tinker with that little time bomb!
36_11_1.gif

1. Can anybody tell me the best way to access it?
2. Can anybody tell me what sort of "Rube-Goldberging" can be done to get around the need for a tool that I don't have?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Bob,

Before I trimmed the brake pedal rubber stopper I fiddled with "adjusting" the master cylinder rod. I loosened the lock nut and turned the adjusting nut about one full turn clockwise. I figured tightening the adjusting nut would shorten the master cylinder rod which in-turn would move the connecting rod back a tad allowing the brake pedal to come up further to activate the brake light switch. Needless to say it didn't work, brake lights stayed on. I wasn't brave enough to go any further so I returned the master cylinder rod to what I hoped was about it's original configuration and tightened the lock nut. Next attempted fix was trimming the brake pedal rubber stopper (described in earlier post) which worked...brake lights went out when brake pedal was released.

Good luck, Bob. I'm interested to know if you come up with another fix. I ordered a brake ordeal rubber stopper to replace the one I shaved in case some other ingenious SL comes up with another fix sans the master cylinder rod adjustment.
 
Thanks!
I guess that the hydraulic pressure was pushing the pedal as high as it could go...
I'm just hoping that there's something that can be done with either a return spring; if it exists, or brake fluid levels to pump the pedal up a bit higher.
I've had no active faults pop up involving the brake system, I guess that tomorrow I'll check the fluid levels and see if I can monkey-up anything in there...
Back downstairs to look for what's left of that pedal bumpstop... :shocked: :gaah:
 
ISCI Brake

Bob Denman said:
Where does that system hook into BRP's? Up front at the Master Cylinder?
Click to expand...

No, not up front. It mounts on a new added bracket with the new secondary cylinder behind the micro switches. Then the new cylinder push rod connects to the existing brake linkage at the back end of the master cylinder push rod.
 
Thanks! I was hoping that the ISCI setup had given you some insights that could be useful...
Tomorrow looks like another rainy day to nap under the bike... (Sigh...)
 
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