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HOLY COW! If you have Tri-Axis handlebars check this from time to time!

Tri-Ax bars

Also, before the safety Nazi's jump in... :banghead:

Please watch the entire video.... I do show that in fact with these loose you do not have a problem controlling the spyder. The design of these is such that the two sides are geared and interlinked. I shows this near the end of the video. It is just a little freaky to be able to move them when riding. That is all....

So the good thing is if these do come loose on you, you wont DIE and you have no issue maintaining control. So BRP designed these right for sure.

Bob

I had mine installed by the dealer when I bought my 2014 RTS, I adjust them periodically for the difference in my size vs my wifes since she also drives. I do check them before distance rides and in 8,800 miles have not had them come the slightest loose, I use the supplied allen wrench. If yours are coming loose like that I would be having the dealer check it out as there is a problem that needs to be fixed. With both of us having severe arthritis being able to adjust the bars has been awsum.:clap:
 
These are the tri-axis handle bars. There is no "torgue spec" for these two bolts!!! They kit comes with a allen wrench "tool" to allow you to loosen those and adjust the angle of the bars. Then with the tool, you tighten them back up. As I said in the video, using the tool I tighten them up as best I could. But in about 3-4K miles they came loose on the road.

All bolts have torque specs, if you got them where you like them I would put a torque wrench on them and tighten them to that size and grade bolt spec. Just saying I would not just check my bolts I would torque them with a real wrench so I didn't have that issue in the future.
 
No problem with controlling the Spyder:yikes::yikes:. I would of pulled my ass over somewhere safe and tightened those up immediately. It freaked me out just watching the video with you in traffic.

Ever been on LA freeways.... You don't just pull over somewhere :)

Also in that area my next exit was another freeway! The exit I actually got off on was a mile or so farther. So that's why I kept going. I almost had no choice. Did you see the lane I was in? It had no shoulder.

Bob
 
All bolts have torque specs, if you got them where you like them I would put a torque wrench on them and tighten them to that size and grade bolt spec. Just saying I would not just check my bolts I would torque them with a real wrench so I didn't have that issue in the future.

Lamont, OK I am confused. BRP sells these tri-axis handlebars and provides the tool you use to loosen them. When a dealer installs them they hand the end user the tool which is a large allen wrench.

The instructions do not tell you to torque them or anything! They tell you to use the tool provided.

No user would know this, BRP doesn't provide a torque wrench, etc. You get what you get.

Have you ever seen the tri-axis handlebars and user instructions?
Based on what your saying to me, I don't think you understand from a end user perspective?
Now me having a full set of tools (which most users probably don't have a torque wrench), YES I could torque them once I find the position I like them. But if I am on a ride and want to adjust them, I am not hauling around a torque wrench with me. The entire idea of these is to be adjustable not locked down forever.

In the end I published this video as a heads up for Joe user to be aware this can happen! Nothing more. This could happen to Joe user just like it did to me....


Bob
 
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I am getting a little frustrated. I did this video to possibly help someone and give a heads up. This happened to me and could easily happen to someone else...

Maybe I will just quit doing these videos if people don't get the idea behind them and all I get is a bunch of crap from the peanut gallery. Ain't worth my time.....

I am starting to see why some valued contributors have left here.....

Bob
 
Thanks!

MOTO-BLOG:

HOLY COW! Check out what happened to me today!

If you have Tri-Axis handlebars better check this from time to time!


Bob

Thanks Bob.....I always carry the wrench with me. I would have pulled over and tightened them right away...and then proceeded home -- just a thought to always check them like you mentioned AND to always have your "T bar" allen tool to tighten them (or adjust) at anytime you are ridin'.

Thanks for the "heads - up" !! :clap::clap::clap:

UPDATE: Just checked my Tri-Axis bars - all is good and tight...no issues here! Thanks again Bob for your post!
 
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I am getting a little frustrated. I did this video to possibly help someone and give a heads up. This happened to me and could easily happen to someone else...

Maybe I will just quit doing these videos if people don't get the idea behind them and all I get is a bunch of crap from the peanut gallery. Ain't worth my time.....

I am starting to see why some valued contributors have left here.....

Bob

Don't lose hope; we appreciate what it is that you're doing... :2thumbs:
As for my admonition about taping in traffic; I explained that it might just be my lack of experience under those circumstances...

Please... Keep up the good work! nojoke
 
All bolts have torque specs, if you got them where you like them I would put a torque wrench on them and tighten them to that size and grade bolt spec. Just saying I would not just check my bolts I would torque them with a real wrench so I didn't have that issue in the future.

Lamonster, this is far more complicated than that. There is no single torque spec for a given bolt. It depends on what it is threaded into. In this case a cast aluminum part, the length of the thread engagement, the use of lock washer vs flat and what kind of lock washer, lubricant or thread locker and a number of other factors. If BRP does not provide a torque spec for installing these adjustment bolts, it would be FAR beyond most any user, or you I would wager, to calculate the correct torque spec for these bolts. BRP does not even specify what grade SS these bolts are. I have a whole department of piping engineers, two do nothing but provide torque calcs for bolt installations. While there are some standards, this connection is FAR from it.

The answer BRP leaves us with is snug them down with the wrench provided (can reasonably obtain 15 to 20 ft lbs) and check them periodically. Finless was merely trying to remind folks to check them and WHY. I for one appreciate it just before heading out to Spyderfest.

Ride safe and have fun all.
 
Lamonster, this is far more complicated than that. There is no single torque spec for a given bolt. It depends on what it is threaded into. In this case a cast aluminum part, the length of the thread engagement, the use of lock washer vs flat and what kind of lock washer, lubricant or thread locker and a number of other factors. If BRP does not provide a torque spec for installing these adjustment bolts, it would be FAR beyond most any user, or you I would wager, to calculate the correct torque spec for these bolts. BRP does not even specify what grade SS these bolts are. I have a whole department of piping engineers, two do nothing but provide torque calcs for bolt installations. While there are some standards, this connection is FAR from it.

The answer BRP leaves us with is snug them down with the wrench provided (can reasonably obtain 15 to 20 ft lbs) and check them periodically. Finless was merely trying to remind folks to check them and WHY. I for one appreciate it just before heading out to Spyderfest.

Ride safe and have fun all.

I was an Ironworker most of my working life so I know a few things about torque Bro. I've used torque multipliers to get 1600 ft lbs of torque on turbine generators and that was wet torque because I couldn't get the spec dry. Don't make this more complicated than it is. I appreciate the heads up too but I wouldn't go back to an allen wrench if they loosened up on me, would you?
 
I was an Ironworker most of my working life so I know a few things about torque Bro. I've used torque multipliers to get 1600 ft lbs of torque on turbine generators and that was wet torque because I couldn't get the spec dry. Don't make this more complicated than it is. I appreciate the heads up too but I wouldn't go back to an allen wrench if they loosened up on me, would you?

You and I are not the average Joe and we have the tools and know how.

Basic Joe is going to get these installed and be handed the tool BRP provides. Simple as that.
Discussing using a torque wrench to solve this problem, average Joe is not going to have and even if they do this could happen to them at least once before they decide to use a torque wrench. So I don't get the point to be honest.

Bob
 
You and I are not the average Joe and we have the tools and know how.

Basic Joe is going to get these installed and be handed the tool BRP provides. Simple as that.
Discussing using a torque wrench to solve this problem, average Joe is not going to have and even if they do this could happen to them at least once before they decide to use a torque wrench. So I don't get the point to be honest.

Bob

No problem, I'm done...thanks for the info.
 
I was an Ironworker most of my working life so I know a few things about torque Bro. I've used torque multipliers to get 1600 ft lbs of torque on turbine generators and that was wet torque because I couldn't get the spec dry. Don't make this more complicated than it is. I appreciate the heads up too but I wouldn't go back to an allen wrench if they loosened up on me, would you?


We are not communicating. Talking about different things.

I think you are right, I'll drop it and move on.
 
If I remember correctly there are cam type of locks on the bottom of the bolts once you position the handlebars. could they have just loosened up from push and pull of steering?
 
If I remember correctly there are cam type of locks on the bottom of the bolts once you position the handlebars. could they have just loosened up from push and pull of steering?

Yes the cams join or integrate the two sides together. This is so one side cannot move on it's own. They both can only move together.

Yes I ride in a lot of twisties and I think they did not vibrate loose but came loose over time simply from the forces of steering.
I steer using the common "push" style thus one side gets the steering force and the other gets very little. For instance a right turn I am pushing on the left side and not doing much pulling on the right side. So I think because of the cams, this uneven force can help cause the screws to loosen up.

Bob
 
Thanks for the heads up. Its also nice to know that my wife and I both have the same taste in music that you have. The looks we get from the younger generation when we're at a stop light is funny.
 
Howdy

The videos & info is great
I always preciate em

I enjoy your input & knowledge

Take it from an old hippy R&R Roller
Turned preacher for 33 years--

people understanding ea other & knowing what your saying is --
Well (its complicated)

But be true to yourself & do it cuz you like it & feel like your supposed to

Man I could not tell you the days & nights I felt personally attacked

Now days people tell my often how much they remember the (great points I made) or the humor I used

Go figure

Wasted lots of time fretting for nothing

Sorry so preachy
I just actually care how people feel

By the way

Deep Purple
Boston
Starship

All touring this year.

Oh yes so is that little known group

Stones
 
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