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hmm - oil on the drain plug! Anyone else seen this?

michaelfrmtx

New member
I ran my 2020 Ryker Rally up on the ramps the other day.just looking at the exhaust and stuff.drop of oil on the drain plug.my wife's 2003 mustang had that.they forgot the pan gasket.anybody else seen this?
 
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Was the oil recently changed? Either way I would clean off then check to see if drain plug is torqued up to spec. I hope it's not the old (reused) crush washer causing the drip. large plug is 22ft/lb, smaller plug is 11 ft/lb.
 
The copper washers are meant to be used one time , but I have reused them and had the drip. That ended up over torqueing the drain bolt.

Now I have starting using a washer that has a rubbing sealing ring around the washer and seems to work well. JCthorne recommended using them and stated they could be reused. They are cheap anyway I would just replace them.
 
The copper washers are meant to be used one time



~~~exception is if you anneal the copper washer each time it's removed, it can be reused almost indefinitely

49983349798_0556194181_b.jpg


Here's how you can anneal a copper washer, so it can be reused/restored to good as new, or, here's how I do it...

I place the copper washer on a length of stainless steel wire. I used a length of safety wire from a roll I have, leftover from my days prepping the 900SS Ducati I campaigned road racing with the Fla. region Championship Cup Series but you can use whatever you have on hand to hold the washer so you don't get burnt

I use/have a propane blowtorch which gets the washer cherry red

49984154317_83b294e64b_b.jpg


After the washer turns cherry red I drop the washer into a pan of cold water. That completes the annealing process

The washer in these two photos is the copper washer used on the rear hub oil drain bolt of my 2013 Vespa 300 GTS motor scooter

Not that anyone asked but the Vespa service manual sez the interval to change this oil out (250cc's 75/90 weight gear oil) is every two years/6 K miles or whichever occurs first. I bought that scooter new in 2014, have serviced it religiously so have done this what? 3 X's? on the same washer. As long as the washers keeps its round shape, you can anneal it indefinitely
 
The copper washers are meant to be used one time , but I have reused them and had the drip. That ended up over torqueing the drain bolt.

Now I have starting using a washer that has a rubbing sealing ring around the washer and seems to work well. JCthorne recommended using them and stated they could be reused. They are cheap anyway I would just replace them.

I also use washers with the rubber sealing rings. Can't remember what they were originally for........... think it might have been a Toyota or something. You can get a pack of 50 for just a few dollars. Don't need to over torque them and they don't leak.
 
I also use washers with the rubber sealing rings. Can't remember what they were originally for........... think it might have been a Toyota or something. You can get a pack of 50 for just a few dollars. Don't need to over torque them and they don't leak.

Do you have a link or name? Please post.
 
Find the size of washer you need. I don't know what sizes are used on the Rykers. Then go to this web page and select the size that fits.

https://www.amazon.com/AUTOHAUX-Bro...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

These are bonded metal and rubber oil drain plug washers. They come is sizes from M6 to M27. You can get enough to last the life of the Spyder for less than $10. I have been using them since the first oil change on the Spyder with no problems and no leaks. I used them on the Harley primary drain plugs for many years before that. The thickness is very close to the same as the metal crush washers. You don't need to over torque them to prevent leaks. Never had one back out after just snugging them down without torquing.

They are not OEM parts, but OEM parts are not always the finest parts that can be found in all cases. The bonded washers are for automotive oil drain plugs and they will not break down from the heat or oil.
 
:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::thumbup:



~~~I should mention, the annealing process can only be done with copper, no other metal can be annealed

And in the event those that are unfamiliar with what actually happens during the anneal, the copper literally expands to its original shape, thereby eliminating the deformation that takes place (when heated) when (in the above instance) the drain bolt is torqued and the copper gasket is squished/becomes deformed

FWIW, you don't necessarily have to drop the heated copper in water, but by cooling it quickly, you lessen the chance of getting burnt by the hot copper
 
~~~I should mention, the annealing process can only be done with copper, no other metal can be annealed

And in the event those that are unfamiliar with what actually happens during the anneal, the copper literally expands to its original shape, thereby eliminating the deformation that takes place (when heated) when (in the above instance) the drain bolt is torqued and the copper gasket is squished/becomes deformed

FWIW, you don't necessarily have to drop the heated copper in water, but by cooling it quickly, you lessen the chance of getting burnt by the hot copper

I believe by cooling it with water it retains the copper softness , if let air cool it will get hard and not deform when recrushed properly.
 
I believe by cooling it with water it retains the copper softness , if let air cool it will get hard and not deform when recrushed properly.


~~~that hasn't been my experience Mutha=:-). Let me explain. When I did this job again the other day, while in the middle of the process, and just after I got this washer cherry red, the phone rang, I set my work (the washer, and wire) down on the lift where my scooter sat. After the call ended and I came back to this job, it was obvious to me the washer had cooled so I proceeded by placing it on the drain fastener and I hand tightened it. I was called away again then this time when I returned I wanted to make sure I had tightened the drain bolt to at least the requisite torque so I looked up the torque value (online, easiest) and set my torque wrench for the highest of the two values given (low & high)

I was actually surprised to feel the washer give when tightened to the point my torque wrench clicked when the set torque was reached which told me two things. 1) my initial torque was low, 2) the washer returned to its original integrity despite not being dipped in water, AKA quenching, and the reason I posted the bit I did where I said it was necessary to use water to cool the work so one doesn't mistakenly burn thyself touching the hot metal

The only other people I've seen anneal copper is plumbers that use copper tubing as once they bend copper tube, if you try to bend it again, it feels like it hardens which it did so annealing is employed to allow the plumber to bend the tubing again if they didn't get the right amount of bend first time around. I've seen them spray water on the tubing to cool the tubing but I always thought they did that so they wouldn't burn themselves trying to work with hot tubing

I suppose you could experiment with this yourself or, if you feel it's necessary to quench the washer after heating it, go right ahead. I've been taught to cool the washer in water after heating it up and always figured it was part & parcel, "a requisite part of the process", until I found out different

It could also be that the washer in question (the one I used) was so small, that by heating it up and setting it on my metal lift, that the metal lift acted to quench the hot washer, like a giant metal heat sink, I don't know, I'm just guessing. I'd say this. If you feel,it's entirely necessary to quench your washer in water, then do so. It certainly won't hurt anything, and you can be sure once that hot copper hits the water, you aren't going to burn yourself=:-)


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
"The awkward part about an orgy is that afterwards, you're not too sure who to thank"
Bob Monkhouse
 
Ferrous metal like steel can be hardened by heating and quenching in oil or water. Most non-ferrous metals like copper can be hardened by heating and allowing them to cool slowly.

So, if you want to make a knife blade out of a file, heat it red and cool it very, very slowly so it softens and can be cut by another file.

If you want to soften copper heat it to slight color change and drop it in a bucket of water.
 
I ran my 2020 Ryker Rally up on the ramps the other day.just looking at the exhaust and stuff.drop of oil on the drain plug.my wife's 2003 mustang had that.they forgot the pan gasket.anybody else seen this?

So, did you ever figure out why there was oil on the drain plug?
 
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