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High engine temp

Jonnyvermont

New member
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Hi all. Where does your engine temp needle typically pointing? For the first 1200 miles, my needle was always right at the 3 o'clock position. After a lot of condensation developed in there, I had it replaced under warranty. Ever since then, it's been pointing almost to the redline. I brought it in a couple of times. The tech hooked it up to the computer and told me that it was accurate. So this means that my engine temperature is always just below the redline. When I first started up in the morning, it only takes about five minutes for it to get to that spot and it stays there. Is this normal?
 
I have unhooked my analog gauges now but when I had them hooked up mine NEVER went above a little over 1/2 way. Even in the desert at 106F in bumper to bumper traffic!

Have you checked you coolant level, oil, etc?

Bob
 
My analogs read hot when they were hooked up. My digital shows cooler and it is correct. Go digital.....


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Looks as if you may have either a fan that is not running or a bad thermostat. There could be other causes. Ambient temperatures cause a lot of variation, but you don't typically see the gauge that high except in extreme heat (temps over 95 F) and at slow speeds. Your fan should be coming on no later than the sixth mark on the gauge. Feel down there with your hand to check. It is usually off at the fifth mark. If it is not running, check that the relay is seated and check the fuse. If they are OK swap relays and check again. If OK then, replace the original relay. If the fuse is blown reach in from the back with your hand and check the fan movement. A piece of debris in the shroud or a bad fan or bad fan bearing could be the cause. If none of this sheds light on things, see your dealer.
 
No Hijack but related

Suddenly over the last month or so, mine started to behave almost exactly the same way, but my fan is functioning normally. I say this because I disabled the analog temp gauge and sure enough, at 5 bars, the fan cycles on. Oh, this time last year, I seldom ran over 3 bars (digital) maybe with the trailer in 105 Iowa heat would see 4 bars while going down the road. Already did a coolant flush and fill (and wrung off the drain bolt) So, with all that being said I am considering pursuing the thermostat. My dealer, after the Marine salute :dontknow: said they have never replaced a thermostat or coolant sensor. I have 45K miles of all weather riding, thermostats do have moving parts, might be time to go. So, with what appears to be a normally functioning fan and a fresh coolant fill, any suggestions? Glad you started this thread, Jonny.
 
Suddenly over the last month or so, mine started to behave almost exactly the same way, but my fan is functioning normally. I say this because I disabled the analog temp gauge and sure enough, at 5 bars, the fan cycles on. Oh, this time last year, I seldom ran over 3 bars (digital) maybe with the trailer in 105 Iowa heat would see 4 bars while going down the road. Already did a coolant flush and fill (and wrung off the drain bolt) So, with all that being said I am considering pursuing the thermostat. My dealer, after the Marine salute :dontknow: said they have never replaced a thermostat or coolant sensor. I have 45K miles of all weather riding, thermostats do have moving parts, might be time to go. So, with what appears to be a normally functioning fan and a fresh coolant fill, any suggestions? Glad you started this thread, Jonny.
Your Spyder is functioning normally...leave it alone. nojoke
 
Okay,I will

But, I'm still curious why, to my perception, the temp seems to be higher.:bdh:But, because I trust Scotty :bowdown: I will ride the wheels of it off until about March of 2015, when I arrive at Pitbull to purchase my 2015 RT Limited with trailer. Signing off now, back to topic. Oh, Jonny, do what Scotty says....
 
But, I'm still curious why, to my perception, the temp seems to be higher.:bdh:But, because I trust Scotty :bowdown: I will ride the wheels of it off until about March of 2015, when I arrive at Pitbull to purchase my 2015 RT Limited with trailer. Signing off now, back to topic. Oh, Jonny, do what Scotty says....
It pays to be cautious. You could be dealing with a bit of a change in the wiring resistance for the gauge circuit, or sensor drift. You could even have some debris in the radiator or have modified the radiator exit airflow. The bottom line is that the thermostat opens at around 2-3 bars/marks and the fan comes on at a high 5-low 6, so your Spyder is operating as intended and there is nothing you could "fix". Be aware that ambient temperatures have a huge effect on gauge readings. At 50 you may run around 3 bars, while at 100 you may see 6 or more on an extended ride.
 
Had same problem

I had the same problem, Fan is fine, only kicks on at the red line. Temp sensor was replaced and tested fine. Gauges are fine. You can tell it's hot I assume by how much heat is coming off of the radiator area? I was at the local spyder garage and they just replaced a thermostat in one that had a problem, stuck open, and it took forever to reach any decent temp, but if cool outside, never really would. The dealer ordered and gave me one. The way this system works is weird. water flows down through the thermostat as it's open, and out the side of it back to engine when cool. When hot, the thermostat closes and the coolant then is redirected/forced straight to the radiator top and out the bottom and back through the engine and keeps going till the engine is cooled. I am going to put mine in hopefully this week, I'll let you know if my temp problem, and I do believe it will fix it. Got to figure it's just a cheap plastic housed thermostat from some craphole country that enslaves it's people, so no surprise that mine failed with a 4500 miles. The temp sensor that controls the fan is in the side of the motor, so it will come on, but do very little with a stuck thermostat. I do believe they get stuck partially closed or open, like the one I stated.
 
The new readings showed up after the gauge was changed?
Could it just be that this is, "The new normal" for the new gauge?? :dontknow:
 
I unplugged my analog on day one because I did not trust them. Week one I pulled them out and put blanks in. Just last night they went back in but still unplugged. I'll hook them back up the night before I trade it in just incase the new owner wants them.


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All those showing increased heat.

It is my advice to all having the temp go up on their spider on the gauge to not blow it off as some silly gauge that is off. It is my experience with a similar problem as this fellow, that my temp just seemed to go up, not a lot, but more than I remembered it ever being. I had the gauge hitting the red zone, or the hot area, and the fan coming on right on or after the black line at that spot on the gauge. For those unplugging the gauges when this happens and blowing it off as a faulty gauge, please read this. The gauge is not the problem. The temp sensor is not the problem. So long as the fan comes on at the right point, which is right at hot, it's fine, but when the gauge never drops to a safe area, or where it used to be, theres a problem. I tested all the things people suggest, and to my surprise, and experience, although usually a thermostat sticks and the engine overheats and you get steam and problems, the spyder actually is able to keep, just cool enough in many conditions to not do this, or go limp mode on you. I replaced my thermostat after testing and fully understanding the flow of the spyders coolant, and guess what, it fixed my problem. The fan kicks in the same temp, but this time, it drops the operating temp back to where I remember it being when I bought the bike and drove it for 2 years.

If you have an overheat problem like this guys, or like mine in another post, do yourself a favor, pick up a thermostat, or get it replaced.
 
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