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High Air Temperature codes

bikeguy

New member
For several months my 2010 RT has occasionally given me a Check Engine Light and gone into Limp Mode on startup. This usually occurred when the RT was hot. The problem would clear up with just a few hundred yards of riding and everything would be fine. I think several others on Spyderlovers have said that they had similar problems.

I took mine in for it's 18,000 mile service today and before I could ask the technician to check the codes and see if he could determine what was causing the problem, he started to tell me about having the same problem with several other Spyders. He said that there was a sensor that measured air temperature and it would throw a code and go into Limp Mode at a temperature of 123 degrees fahrenheit. With the hot summer we've been having, it is easy for the road surface under a sitting Spyder to exceed 123 degrees, in fact, 150 - 160 degrees might not be unusual. Sure enough, when he checked the codes, he found a High Air Temp history. He said that they had talked to BRP about writing a new program for Texas and other hot locations but gotten no results as yet. In the meantime, he didn't know anything else to do but ride it, get a little air movement and the problem would clear.

I really didn't know enough at the time to ask any intelligent questions but I came home and read some of the Shop Manual and, the best I can determine, the sensor is actually reading intake air temperature. It doesn't seem to cause any problem other than the temporary Limp Mode which clears with just a little riding. I'll probably stop back by the dealer and if I can catch the technician when he's not too busy I'll ask a few more questions. Hope this info may be helpful to some of you.

By the way, my RT had also gone into Limp Mode a couple of times while riding at highway speed and showed a "handlebar" symbol. I had to stop and remove the key and re-boot the computers to clear this one. The tech found slightly loose battery connections and thinks that tightening them will fix this problem.

Cotton
 
You mention reboot the computer? How is that done?

Just take the key out of the switch, walk a few feet away from the Spyder, then reinsert the key and turn the ignition on again. This essentially resets or re-boots the ECM (computer).

Cotton
 
Just take the key out of the switch, walk a few feet away from the Spyder, then reinsert the key and turn the ignition on again. This essentially resets or re-boots the ECM (computer).

Cotton

When you take the key "a few feet away" from the Spyder, is this because of the chip in the key and a "few feet away" breaks the circuit? Interesting.

:spyder2:
 
When you take the key "a few feet away" from the Spyder, is this because of the chip in the key and a "few feet away" breaks the circuit? Interesting.

:spyder2:

That's what I've always assumed, George, but to tell the truth I'm not sure. The one time that I tried it without walking away it didn't reset. I know that the key has to be removed long enough for the ECM to have to re-boot. What I mean by that is; If the engine is running and I turn the key off then right back on, the digital display comes right back on in "run" mode without having to wait for it. The key has to be removed longer than that so that you have to wait for it to re-boot. By walking away, I assume that the ECM has to read the digital code in the chip in the key again, forcing a complete re-boot. I hope that a little cooler weather and tight battery connections will cure the problem and I don't have to mess with it anymore but who knows if we will ever get any cooler weather. 105 degrees by my thermometer on my front porch this afternoon. I usually like summer time but I'm getting pretty tired of this. Yesterday was the 90th day that the official temperature in San Angelo was 100 degrees or more this summer. Shattering the old record of 60.

Cotton
 
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