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Here's some Tips on Lifting the RT!

I haven't seen anything about using an automotive 2-post lift to work under your Spyder.µ

MY lift is tied up with my race car right now, but when I get a chance, I plan to see if I can manipulate the arms to reach some hard points underneath the Spyder.
My back doesn't like getting up from a creeper anymore. :gaah:

I'll get some pics and post back here when I can.

Just to be sure to be sure that I truly understand what you're talking about ^^ does your 2-post lift have 4 arms, 2 on each post/side that swing on a post mounted (& raised/lowered) bracket, so that you can put a lift point under the front & rear of each side of a car?? :dontknow:

If your hoist has got 4 arms, 2 on each post, then lifting a Spyder, which only has 1 rear wheel & not a heap of solid lift points down the rear end, especially not if you need to lift equally/evenly on each side of the Spyder & need to leave the rear wheel hanging (remember, it's much harder to get the wheel off if it's not hanging! :p ), then it may be juuust a little problematic, possibly not necessarily insurmountably so, but still... :rolleyes:

In an attempt to keep it brief, let's just say that I truly could not stifle the "WT 'expletive deleted' were you dreaming of by trying to lift it like that?!" moment when I saw the result of a Spyder falling arse-end first off raised a 2-post/4-arm lift, then flipping completely upside down with all 3 wheels in the air, bending the frame & swingarms, smashing the windscreen & pretty much all the tupperware in the process, and cracking a number of fairly important mounts & castings on the engine/trans casing as well! :yikes:

At least his insurance company did (eventually... :sour: ) pay him out the same $$ he'd paid for the Spyder just a couple of weeks prior, but he had to argue with them about that!! Funnily enough, he doesn't ride any more, and he's sold his 2-post lift too! nojoke

So if you do head down this path, just make sure that everything you use is solid; and that your Spyder is lifted AND HELD in a balanced and stable manner, even if you do substantially change the CoG &/or balance point by doing something like removing a wheel or two while it's up there! :lecturef_smilie:
 
Thanks Peter, I appreciate your concern, and I am quite careful about how I lift vehicles.
I've had my lift since 2000, and I've had everything from 1100 pound race cars to an 8500 pound Ford Excursion on it. (It's a Magnum, rated for 10k.)

I got the Spyder on the lift this evening. It did require use of pad extensions, and a floor jack to get it onto the pads, but overall was a pretty easy task.
I placed a pad under each lower control arm, and under the swing arm on each side.
As always, and especially with an unfamiliar vehicle, I lifted it a couple inches, then tugged, rocked, pushed and shook it real good to make sure it was solidly supported.
The last thing I want is an accident causing damage, or worse injury.

Here are a few pics of how I lifted it, and I'm confident that it's secure, and on sturdy points that won't cause any damage.

BTW, anyone concerned about causing damage from jacking under the lower shock mount, I included a pic which shows just how beefy that mount is.
 

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The problem you have with a 3-point lift is that if any one of those 3 lift points fail in any way, the Spyder/Ryker will just snap-roll over because it'll be so un-balanced. With a 4-point lift (like on a car) you have a better chance if you lose one lift point.

Whatever method you use to support your Spyder/Ryker off the ground, be it 6" or 6' high... please be safe & plan for the un-expected.
 
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BTW, anyone concerned about causing damage from jacking under the lower shock mount, I included a pic which shows just how beefy that mount is.

Cobranut, that’s fair comment for your particular model/year, but it must not be taken as a generality. Most other models do not have the cross beam beneath the shock, so you are jacking direct on the shock bolt. That’s why most BRP manuals say “do NOT place jack under the rear shock”. If you want to jack in that spot, you must place a block of timber (or similar) between the shock bolt and the jack to spread the load. ;)

Pete
 
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