HELP PLEASE Code P0171

[SpyderAnn01]

My girlfriend is in Phoenix and her Spyder RT is showing P0171. The only thing I could find on this code referred to someone with a Juice Box. Can anyone tell me what this code means and can she risk riding back to Las Vegas with the check engine light on? The Phoenix dealer and Las Vegas dealers are both closed tomorrow.

Thanks.

 

[NancysToy]

P0171 = System Too Lean Bank 1 - Check injector and fuel supply system

 

[Mikel53]

Help please

My book shows a fuel injector problem. system too lean.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Thanks Scotty. She is calling for a tow truck.

 

[Schnauzer]

Same code

We just started getting it as well.. Took the fuel filter out and changed.. gas was a tad bit nasty looking.. won't be going back there anytimesoon.. reputable establishment also... you never know.. Talk to dealer, they said 1hr labor to diagnostic, what I already know, just to hook up. Going to put it all back together and ride for a coupledays and see if code goes away.. only 9 miles both directions.. If not then into dealer I guess, or the back of the barn with the other "pos" electronic controled devices.

Damn sure love my oleskool harley..

 

[Schnauzer]

Check the manifold hoses for cracks

are you reffering to the Map sensor vacuum lines (2).. changed them last year..would not idle. but no codes...

the only hose not inspected was from the evap to the intake.. will do that.. I would like to do away with all that mess, just for a little more airflowing thru.. just not sure which way to go about it.. I know to keep the evap module plugged in or another code pops up I found that out. 2 restarts and it cleared.

I'm thinking the hose from the tank would be routed out and under, and the intake just capped. what happens to the evap {intake/discharge} ends? just let it pump like crazy during idle..lol..

 

[Schnauzer]

The lines I was referring to are the vacuum lines that (I guess) go to the map sensor.
I haven't any direct experience but they do crack and can cause the lean cylinder code.
I don't believe I would mess the the evap system at all.

I did visually check them.. I guess I need to pull a vacuum on them to see.. have that tool at my dad's "Roadtrip"

I had done some reading where they had removed the canisters, just wasn't sure of the proceedure..

 

[gypsy_100]

P0171 and P0174

I had the P0174 awhile back (#2 running lean) while we were riding in WV -- about 500 mi from home. On the ride home, the code went away after maybe 200 miles. When we got home, changed the fuel filter as part of maintenance and the dealer tech went over everything closely. Code came and went. Finally thought he found a tiny vacuum leak where the map sensor tube connected to the map sensor (not the throttle body end). That seemed to have solved the problem. For about 2,000 miles. Then it returned when we were in Maine earlier this summer, also about 600 miles from home. Rode home, code never went away. Tech thoroughly checked everything again. History showed that P0171 had also activated a few times but I had never pulled it up while it was active. Every time I pulled codes up the only active code was P0174. Tech finally decided to replace both O2 sensors -- I have about 35K on the bike. Did that, no more codes. But I've only put about 700 miles on since then. Leaving for Nova Scotia and the Magdelan Islands shortly. That'll be the test as it only seems to happen when I'm at least 500 miles from home!

I believe the EVAP hose from the canister connects to the #2 throttle body so any vacuum leaks in that system or purge valve failures would affect #2 cylinder, which is why the tech in my case went over the EVAP system very thoroughly the first time.

 

[Chupaca]

Here's the thing..!!

some of those vaccum lines will be fine looking but..when heated loosen and cause problems. Some have added zip ties to hold them tight...:thumbup:

 

[Yazz]

I had done some reading where they had removed the canisters, just wasn't sure of the proceedure..

This is for a GS, but bet you can figure it out...

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?13298-Canisterectomy

 

[oldguyinTX]

Vacuum hoses and the Evap canister are known problems. Look carefully at the hoses first, bend them, look for cracks. Pretty much a safe bet that hoses are the problem.

 

[T2ride]

P0171

I had the same code, took it in to the dealer. They said it was the O2 sensor and they had to order one. Asked if it was ok to run till they get it in, said as long as the check engine screen didn't bother me. Ran for 2 weeks till I had the chance to drop it off, no problems. I did have them remove the juice box since they were pretty sure that was what was causing the error and I did not have the cd to program the box.

 

[gypsy_100]

some of those vaccum lines will be fine looking but..when heated loosen and cause problems. Some have added zip ties to hold them tight...:thumbup:

Vacuum hoses and the Evap canister are known problems. Look carefully at the hoses first, bend them, look for cracks. Pretty much a safe bet that hoses are the problem.

I had the same code, took it in to the dealer. They said it was the O2 sensor and they had to order one. Asked if it was ok to run till they get it in, said as long as the check engine screen didn't bother me.

Just sayin'. There are other possibilities with a higher (mine was 34K) mileage machine than just the MAP tubing. As T2ride also found out. MAP sensor tubing is certainly a likely cause, and easy and cheap to remedy.

First time around, the rear MAP sensor hose was leaking ever so slightly at the fitting on the MAP sensor. Tech fixed it with a zip tie to get me on the road without waiting for parts. Pull the tubing off the plastic fitting, put the zip tie on the tube with slight constrictive pressure on it, then slide the tube over the straight fitting. Much easier than trying to zip tie it in position. The old ones had no cracks, were still relatively flexible. They felt OK. The only way the tech could find the leak was by running the engine when the code was active and spraying each and every vacuum connection one at a time. When the code went away, that fitting was the problem. I ordered two new tubes to be safe and put them on myself a few weeks later. I zip tied the new ones at the MAP sensor end just for extra safety. The throttle body end is a brass fitting with deep chevrons cut in it that make a super one-way fit. But the plastic MAP sensor end is a disappointing straight plastic slip on. The new hoses were more flexible but I would not have judged the old ones as unacceptable for service based on feel and on absence of any cracks.

That lasted 2K until the code showed up again and the O2 sensors were replaced.