Help ...need help with SE5 oil change kit... HELP!!

[obiwanbill]

Since my Maintenance contract was up, I decided to do some wrenching myself.

Got a Spyder 2008 GS SE5 oil change kit: the large bottom oil filter, little higher up 'transmission filter", o rings, brass washers for the tank drain and the engine drain. Took 45 min to get off all the "tupperware" (not bad from a wheelchair with one leg), and 2 hours to get the over torqued tank bolt out (like to chew out the last mechanic that must have had the strength of Superman...I bent 2 Allen wrenches before it came loose).

HELP!!
the instruction sheet directions and photos for the li'l trannie filter, Does not clarify. The old filter had a hole opening with a rubber gasket on each end (not the O ring). The new one has a solid metal cover on one end and a hole with a rubber gasket on the other. It wasn't saying if the solid end inserted into the new filter cover or it was to be facing the engine. I put it in with the rubber gasket facing the engine and the solid metal end facing away from engine, snug into the outside filter cover.

Did I do it right, or do I have to tear it apart and reverse it? :yikes:

 

[SllimG]

you got it right.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-oil-on-your-Spyder-Step-by-Step-by-Lamonster here is a step by step video that might help you out.

 

[Chupaca]

Congrats..!!

your good to go.. :thumbup: if your going to do your own wrenching invest in a manual..online Green Manuals...

 

[NancysToy]

Also invest in the proper sockets and a torque wrench. The use of Allen wrenches (hex keys) will ruin the plugs in short order....and will likely result in the plugs being too tight or too loose most of the time.

 

[frank3]

I'd suggest you also invest in "Gold Plug" drain plugs. Purchased these for my 2010 RT-S. They're hex head with a heavy magnet end. Much easier to work with. The allen socket on the OEM is almost too small for the torque that some dealer mechs apply thus making it difficult to break free. I have Snap-On tools including their hex wrenches and my first attempt at removing an OEM plug nearly resulted in rounding out the plug hex. I'm like you in that my maintenance contract was up and I now perform all my own service. Just Google "Gold Plugs" Thier site is very easy to work with and has a plug selection based on your bike/auto application. You won't need to know the thread size as you select it from thier site. Have all the Spyder models available.

 

[obiwanbill]

thanks guys.
figured since the bottom filter had no opening on the side into the cover, away from the engine...so it made sense to my ignorant mind that the top filter would be likewise. Like to yell at the photobug and writer of the shop sheet in the kit for not specifying which end was in and which was out.

thanks for info on the hex nut...the stock allen head hole is ridiculous:clap:

 

[obiwanbill]

your good to go.. :thumbup: if your going to do your own wrenching invest in a manual..online Green Manuals...

got an email address for this green manual?

 

[Big Arm]

got an email address for this green manual?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-2009-2...anuals_Literature&hash=item3cd156f810&vxp=mtr

 

[obiwanbill]

you got it right.

Whew!! Thanks

 

[obiwanbill]

your good to go.. :thumbup: if your going to do your own wrenching invest in a manual..online Green Manuals...

Thanks. BTW what's a Green Manuel? like a Clymer manual "Spyders for Dummies"?

 

[obiwanbill]

I'd suggest you also invest in "Gold Plug" drain plugs. Purchased these for my 2010 RT-S. They're hex head with a heavy magnet end. Much easier to work with. The allen socket on the OEM is almost too small for the torque that some dealer mechs apply thus making it difficult to break free. I have Snap-On tools including their hex wrenches and my first attempt at removing an OEM plug nearly resulted in rounding out the plug hex. I'm like you in that my maintenance contract was up and I now perform all my own service. Just Google "Gold Plugs" Thier site is very easy to work with and has a plug selection based on your bike/auto application. You won't need to know the thread size as you select it from thier site. Have all the Spyder models available.

Thanks

 

[ARCTIC]

Thanks Big Arm! I just bought a green manual too :thumbup:

 

[obiwanbill]

dumb question

I'd suggest you also invest in "Gold Plug" drain plugs. Purchased these for my 2010 RT-S. They're hex head with a heavy magnet end. Much easier to work with. The allen socket on the OEM is almost too small for the torque that some dealer mechs apply thus making it difficult to break free. I have Snap-On tools including their hex wrenches and my first attempt at removing an OEM plug nearly resulted in rounding out the plug hex. I'm like you in that my maintenance contract was up and I now perform all my own service. Just Google "Gold Plugs" Thier site is very easy to work with and has a plug selection based on your bike/auto application. You won't need to know the thread size as you select it from thier site. Have all the Spyder models available.

when using the gold plugs, should I use the brass crush washers OEM type or should use the aluminum gold plug washers?