HELP HELP ABS Light

[Old Wolf]

I need help. Picked up my bike from the dealer last Wednesday after having them install CB radio and check belt it seemed loose. Drove home parked in garage, didn't have chance to ride until today. When I got back looked at belt was all the way to the right touching the flange. I know that they will not be able to get me in next week and the fallowing week leave for Maggie Valley NC so I adjusted the belt. When I had the back tire off the ground and was running it to check alignment for the third time the ABS light came on, limp home mode came on an a picture of a spyder with swirly lines appears on the screen which means VSS intervention occurs. So now how do I FIX this????????

 

[Riker]

Is it possible you accidently rested your foot on the brake, this will basically cause a false issue and put you in limp mode...just a thought:dontknow:

 

[Old Wolf]

Is it possible you accidently rested your foot on the brake, this will basically cause a false issue and put you in limp mode...just a thought:dontknow:

SO HOW DO I GET IT OUT OF LIMP MODE

 

[Old Wolf]

Drive it.

It should clear itself.

How far do I have to drive??

 

[Old Wolf]

THANK YOU

About a half mile should do it.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!! That worked. I can now turn off the internal PANIC Button. Love this Forum.

 

[NancysToy]

Now that we have calmed your nerves, let's talk about the belt. The Spyder belt wanders a bit. You should move it straight forward or move the sprocket through at least three full turns by spinning the wheel, before checking the alignment. Are you sure it was hitting the flange? 1 mm is sufficient clearance...and even less isn't a problem. As long as you can slip a thumbnail or credit card in between the belt and the flange, it is should be OK. For a quick check of the belt, twist the bottom run with your index finger and thumb, halfway between the sprockets (Spyder sitting on the ground). It it twists about 90 degrees with some effort, it is real good. If it twists more it is loose, and if less it is either tight or you have weak fingers.

 

[Old Wolf]

The 90 degree twist is good

Now that we have calmed your nerves, let's talk about the belt. The Spyder belt wanders a bit. You should move it straight forward or move the sprocket through at least three full turns by spinning the wheel, before checking the alignment. Are you sure it was hitting the flange? 1 mm is sufficient clearance...and even less isn't a problem. As long as you can slip a thumbnail or credit card in between the belt and the flange, it is should be OK. For a quick check of the belt, twist the bottom run with your index finger and thumb, halfway between the sprockets (Spyder sitting on the ground). It it twists about 90 degrees with some effort, it is real good. If it twists more it is loose, and if less it is either tight or you have weak fingers.

Before I adjusted the belt you could not even put tissue paper between the belt and the flange. It is now 3/32nd away from flange.

 

[billybovine]

Now that we have calmed your nerves, let's talk about the belt. The Spyder belt wanders a bit. You should move it straight forward or move the sprocket through at least three full turns by spinning the wheel, before checking the alignment. Are you sure it was hitting the flange? 1 mm is sufficient clearance...and even less isn't a problem. As long as you can slip a thumbnail or credit card in between the belt and the flange, it is should be OK. For a quick check of the belt, twist the bottom run with your index finger and thumb, halfway between the sprockets (Spyder sitting on the ground). It it twists about 90 degrees with some effort, it is real good. If it twists more it is loose, and if less it is either tight or you have weak fingers.

Question for you Scotty. Since the OP does not tell us what year his Spyder is. It could be a 2013 MY and because of the huge change in belt tension specification, does the finger twist test still apply?

 

[NancysToy]

Question for you Scotty. Since the OP does not tell us what year his Spyder is. It could be a 2013 MY and because of the huge change in belt tension specification, does the finger twist test still apply?

I haven't worked on a 2013, and have seen very few, so I don't know. With the spec change I doubt it, though. The spec change worries me. I don't see anything that has changed drastically in the drivetrain to allow the tension to be raised. Unless there ae some big changes in the bearing sizes and metallurgy, this worries me. Time will tell the story.

The best way to check your belt is to have the dealer tension it with his sonic gauge, then take a baseline reading with a Krikit 2. After you know how the Krikit compares, you can easiiy set the tension in the future.