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HELP!!! 2019 F3 Loose negative battery terminal.

jlouis2

New member
Just picked up a new 2019 F3 Limited yesterday.

This morning I went to start the bike and I noticed that the right turn indicator was not working when I put on the hazard lights. So, to further investigate the situation, I went to start the bike. That is when the major issue came up. The bike will not start. I turn the ignition to on, went through the start-up process, and when I pushed the start button, the bike just cut off. I went to further investigate the issue and removed the front trunk compartment and noticed that the negative battery terminal was not connected properly. When I tried to reconnect the negative terminal I noticed that there seems to be a nut missing or something that is preventing the screw from screwing in completely.

I put the screw in to make a conection, but it was still a bit loose. When I started the machine, it did sart, however, after about 15 seconds, I heard a loud beep and saw that the bike was in "Limp Home Mode"

Now I am stuck with my bike in the garage and I cannot ride it. This could be a simple fix, however, I do not know how to fix it.

An help or advise would be great.

I would just take it back to the dealer, but they are an hour away and I don't know if I can ride it with a taped up battery terminal in Limp Home Mode.
 

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Battery terminal nut may be laying somewhere beneath the battery? If you can't find it, try using a nut that will fit in its place, along with an appropriate length bolt. If successful the code may clear. If so it'll be held in BUDS memory. All due to POOR dealer set up. Which happens all to often. Most dealers have kids that do the set up and they have no idea how important it really is.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
Hello,
New to spyder world but some time with 2 wheels.
My opinion. find and clean all terminals.
Find the right nut and reassemble.
Then before starting the bike fully charge the battery.
 
OK, so I just got back from Home Depot. The bolt is an M6, however, I can't seem to get the nut to go into the hole the M6 was just too big. So, I put an M5 screw and nut, the seems to work, however, I would like it a little tighter. But, when I started the bike, it was no longer in limp home mode.

What is in the pan under the battery? Will it be ok for that missing nut to be rattling around there until I get it back to the dealer? Or should I completely remove the battery and retrieve it? If so, how do I remove the battery?

My next jaunt on the bike will be the hour and a half long ride to the dealer. I'm in the Army and I go to the field this week, so I won't be doing anything until I return on Thursday.

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm a straight-up NOOB!
 
I'm pretty sure your need a 10mm nut …. I would also Add star washers to both terminals …. They will NEVER loosen on their own ….. PS the dealer may not have put the nut on ….. Mike :ohyea:
 
OK, so I just got back from Home Depot. The bolt is an M6, however, I can't seem to get the nut to go into the hole the M6 was just too big. So, I put an M5 screw and nut, the seems to work, however, I would like it a little tighter. But, when I started the bike, it was no longer in limp home mode.

What is in the pan under the battery? Will it be ok for that missing nut to be rattling around there until I get it back to the dealer? Or should I completely remove the battery and retrieve it? If so, how do I remove the battery?

My next jaunt on the bike will be the hour and a half long ride to the dealer. I'm in the Army and I go to the field this week, so I won't be doing anything until I return on Thursday.

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm a straight-up NOOB!

You're good as you sit. It is running and no codes. Let the dealer clean up HIS mess. Sorry this happened to you.

PM'd to see Edit: If you're concerned the nut and bolt are not tight enough - take an appropriately sized common screw driver or similar object that will fit in the 'C' channel the nut is in and wedge the nut with it while tightening the bolt.

Do not let what you're using as a wedge tool come in contact with anything supplied by the positive side of the battery. Again, you're doing an emergency repair here that needs to be good enough to get you to the dealer. This isn't how it's normally done, but will save you a tow bill.

While at the dealers I would insist they go over the Spyder for other items that may not have been properly set up. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
If you had an M6 hex nut that wouldn't go in.... very often the nut on a battery terminal is square and not hex shaped, made just for that application. it is made so it can slide into that little cage and is won't spin when you tighten the screw with terminals on it....
 
Here's the thing..

The thing is the nut is a rectangle and slides in to the post. The bolt length is critical as to long and it will not tighten to short and it will not reach the nut or strip out.. you have it to where it is working but run by the dealer or any bike shop and get the right one. They have them lying around all over the shop...:thumbup:
 
If you had an M6 hex nut that wouldn't go in.... very often the nut on a battery terminal is square and not hex shaped, made just for that application. it is made so it can slide into that little cage and is won't spin when you tighten the screw with terminals on it....

Poor set up by the dealer or he'd never had the problem. He's doing an emergency repair that'll suffice to get him back to his dealer.
 
You did the right thing by getting on this forum and sharing your problem and then solving it. For over four decades, I had a one man (and wife) machine repair business. The work I saw that others did before me was usually horrible and they charged way more than I did. Consequently, I learned not to trust others with tools and my stuff, unless I am familiar with their mechanical prowess. I'm not paying $120 / hour to have my F3L butchered.
I am new to Spyders and am soaking in the wonderful information found in this forum, as I intend to do as much of my own maintenance and repairs (hopefully few to none) as possible.
 
Just picked up a new 2019 F3 Limited yesterday.

This morning I went to start the bike and I noticed that the right turn indicator was not working when I put on the hazard lights. So, to further investigate the situation, I went to start the bike. That is when the major issue came up. The bike will not start. I turn the ignition to on, went through the start-up process, and when I pushed the start button, the bike just cut off. I went to further investigate the issue and removed the front trunk compartment and noticed that the negative battery terminal was not connected properly. When I tried to reconnect the negative terminal I noticed that there seems to be a nut missing or something that is preventing the screw from screwing in completely.

I put the screw in to make a conection, but it was still a bit loose. When I started the machine, it did sart, however, after about 15 seconds, I heard a loud beep and saw that the bike was in "Limp Home Mode"

Now I am stuck with my bike in the garage and I cannot ride it. This could be a simple fix, however, I do not know how to fix it.

An help or advise would be great.

I would just take it back to the dealer, but they are an hour away and I don't know if I can ride it with a taped up battery terminal in Limp Home Mode.

It appears someone added the pigtail for a battery tender or other auxiliary powered device. When I added the pigtail to my Ryker the bolt ended up being too short to reach the nut. I simply used a screwdriver to lift the nut in order for the bolt to reach it.

I just added the pigtail to my new 2019 F3 base model and noticed the nut is completely enclosed and there isn't any place to insert a screw driver to lift the nut. Fortunately the bolt was long enough to reach the nut when adding the pigtail.
 
So it's now working with the smaller bolt. So as advised above you can now wait until your next service and have it fixed properly. If you are not comfortable with it as it is. Any powersports battery retailer nearby will have the correct bolt/nut. Even Amazon has the correct replacements.
 
I have a a nut I could send you. Your dealer or anywhere that sells motorcycle batteries should have some lying around for free. PM me your address and I'll post it today. When you install it, put a zip tie under the nut to raise it a bit and use a phillips to start it. once it's engaged, pull the zip tie out and use a 10mm socket on it. I don't recommend a star washer.
batteryscrews.jpg
 
Thanks! I'm in the field right now, but I head home on Thursday. I'm going to stop by some shops on the way home and see if I can find the right nut. If I have any problems finding it, I may just have to hit you up!

I have to say, this community is awesome!

John
 
Stop by a place that specializes in batteries, such as Batteries Plus, or a tire and battery shop. They should have what you need.
 
So, I ordered a bolt through Amazon, but it was smaller (length) than expected. I went to Home Depot and got a 1/2" 10-32 machine screw and a #10 washer. After dropping several screws and bolts under the battery, I finally managed to get it secure enough to where I feel confident! I used a magnetic wand to retrieve the dropped screws and now I am happy with the results. I am still taking it in the shop tomorrow morning so they can fix my inop right turn signal and put the correct nut and bolt in.

On another note, I just received a phone call from the finance guy and he told me that my payments were going to be lower because he legally could not sell me GAP insurance due to the fact that I am military. I am disappointed because it is such a large loan and if for some reason the bike gets totaled or stolen, I want to make sure I don't have to come up with 10's of thousands of dollars to satisfy the outstanding debt that the insurance company won't pay.

Oh well, I'll try to refinance through Navy Federal next month to get the GAP.

Thank you all for your suggestions and feedback. I truly appreciate it and so far, I'm loving the Spyder community!

John
 
I got a bin full of battery parts in the shop. Have to replace a bike battery every 3 or 4 years. Truck and tractor battery 4 or 5 years. I keep all the battery post hardware and toss it in the bin. Keep several new battery post clamps in the there too, as well as any drain line tubing that comes with a new battery if I don't use it. Had to go in there and get bolts or nuts for bike batteries several times. Costs nothing to keep the old ones and they not gonna charge any more for the core if it has bolts in it or not.
 
So, I ordered a bolt through Amazon, but it was smaller (length) than expected. I went to Home Depot and got a 1/2" 10-32 machine screw and a #10 washer. After dropping several screws and bolts under the battery, I finally managed to get it secure enough to where I feel confident! I used a magnetic wand to retrieve the dropped screws and now I am happy with the results. I am still taking it in the shop tomorrow morning so they can fix my inop right turn signal and put the correct nut and bolt in.

On another note, I just received a phone call from the finance guy and he told me that my payments were going to be lower because he legally could not sell me GAP insurance due to the fact that I am military. I am disappointed because it is such a large loan and if for some reason the bike gets totaled or stolen, I want to make sure I don't have to come up with 10's of thousands of dollars to satisfy the outstanding debt that the insurance company won't pay.

Oh well, I'll try to refinance through Navy Federal next month to get the GAP.

Thank you all for your suggestions and feedback. I truly appreciate it and so far, I'm loving the Spyder community!

John

Gap insurance is a scam. The us government is protecting you from predatory financing practices.
 
It's fixed!!!

Got it back to the dealer and all is right now! They apologized profusely. And I've been riding every chance I get thus far! I even just dropped my wife off at work!

Once again, thanks to everyone for your help, advice, and opinions!

John
 
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