Heated gear info you need to know.

[Copperman]

I just purchased Firstgear heated gear (jacket liner, gloves and heat-troller) from BajaRon. Besides a great deal, I learned you need a 60" coax extension cable to get power under the seat. This is for the 2013-2015 RT's where the battery is up front in the frunk.

The heat-troller comes with a 36" battery harness standard. You need to add a 60" coax extension to get power under the seat. It'll be a little long but they only make a 24" and a 60" extension. If you just use a 60" battery harness, you'll be about 24" too short. For me, with trial and error, I figured it out.

Now I'll know exactly what to do when I set up my wife's bike for heated gear.

 

[bmccaffrey]

You do not need to go to battery

If you pull the plastic cowl where ant-freeze fill is.

You can tie in there on opposite side. POS & Negative are located opposite side

 

[nslowmotion]

You do not need to go to battery

If you pull the plastic cowl where ant-freeze fill is.

You can tie in there on opposite side. POS & Negative are located opposite side

???

 

[jaherbst]

You do not need to go to battery

If you pull the plastic cowl where ant-freeze fill is.

You can tie in there on opposite side. POS & Negative are located opposite side

After burning up two controllers and one jacket by not hooking up directly to the battery I would have to disagree with this statement.

HOOK IT UP TO THE BATTERY DIRECT! Come up through the handlebar opening and use a little velcro to hold it in place. Controller wires will easily reach.

Jack

 

[manxman]

Heated clothes.

I just purchased Firstgear heated gear (jacket liner, gloves and heat-troller) from BajaRon. Besides a great deal, I learned you need a 60" coax extension cable to get power under the seat. This is for the 2013-2015 RT's where the battery is up front in the frunk.

The heat-troller comes with a 36" battery harness standard. You need to add a 60" coax extension to get power under the seat. It'll be a little long but they only make a 24" and a 60" extension. If you just use a 60" battery harness, you'll be about 24" too short. For me, with trial and error, I figured it out.

Now I'll know exactly what to do when I set up my wife's bike for heated gear.

I went a different route, I used the power outlet in the rear trunk. Drilled a hole big enough to pass the cable through and the short cable is long enough. Everything is tucked in under the seat..................

 

[BajaRon]

You do not need to go to battery

If you pull the plastic cowl where ant-freeze fill is.

You can tie in there on opposite side. POS & Negative are located opposite side

Not a good idea. Not going to the battery can overload the system and cause failure of components. I don't believe that Firstgear will honor the warranty if the system is not hooked up as directed in the instructions (which specifically and repeatedly say to go directly to the battery).

 

[Copperman]

You do not need to go to battery

If you pull the plastic cowl where ant-freeze fill is.

You can tie in there on opposite side. POS & Negative are located opposite side

I'm not as brave as you. It wasn't that difficult to fish the coax through to the back once you have the Tupperware off. And taking the Tupperware off was the easy part.

 

[TommyBwell]

As has been stated everything you read from the manufacturers says always hook directly to the battery.

 

[jaherbst]

Read the f*****g directions or for you military guys RTFQ! Hook it directly to the battery. Can Buss systems can get overloaded and you may not have the required system voltage or amperage at other locations and hookups with all your "Farkles" drawing down Amps. This will cause your heat controller or jacket itself to short out. I too in my infinite wisdom hooked mine up to a source other than the battery. After two burned out controllers and a jacket that burned up while riding and attached to my little skinny body (OUCH) I finally hooked it up according to the supplied directions and never had a problem since. Thank you Gerbing for being so patient with me.

Jack- the missing Kilowatt!

 

[BajaRon]

Read the f*****g directions or for you military guys RTFQ! Hook it directly to the battery. Can Buss systems can get overloaded and you may not have the required system voltage or amperage at other locations and hookups with all your "Farkles" drawing down Amps. This will cause your heat controller or jacket itself to short out. I too in my infinite wisdom hooked mine up to a source other than the battery. After two burned out controllers and a jacket that burned up while riding and attached to my little skinny body (OUCH) I finally hooked it up according to the supplied directions and never had a problem since. Thank you Gerbing for being so patient with me.

Jack- the missing Kilowatt!

I have to say that there are times you can 'Cheat' the instructions and find a better, easier way. And the manufactures are not always right. But in this case. Don't do it. It will probably damage expensive equipment and leave you stranded in the cold just when you needed it most. Don't find out the hard way (like I usually do! :yikes:

 

[Tango]

I had the dealer install a waterproof aux. fuse box under the seat. Problem solved. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:

 

[brerrabbit]

Coax as power cable?

This setup uses coax cable for power distribution? As in TV cable or wave guide stuff?

 

[Trickie Dick]

panel mount

I installed a panel mount coax plug on the front left top tupperware. I used this:
http://www.whitehorsegear.com/panel-mount-coax-socket-to-coax-plug-8-inch-cable The location makes it easy to just connect the male lead coming out of the heated jacket.
I ran the wire that came with the heated jacket and connected it directly to the battery and just plugged this dashmount coax socket to it. I imagine you could do without a 60" extension on the newer RTs. The connecting wires that came with the jacket should be enough.