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Heading out to the salt flats, THANKS a ton

Just talked to Seth . . . .

. . . . I have been watching the weather for his run on Tuesday, TOMORROW! It has not been good on the Salt Flats - rain and storms.

He will not find out until tomorrow morning (10 AM MST) if he can race.
Keep your fingers crossed for good weather and good runs.

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Tom
 
yeah, like tom said, I will know tomorrow at 10am if they will be racing out here, raining in the desert WTF, it was wet but it stopped raining about 5 tonight, it has been a epic trip, I have a 4 yr old and her mom who is also preggers with (my ex from from before my accident, insert stress you should have thought about is comment here), lucky my buddy is with too. It would be a real kick in the butt not to race because of any reason but the weather.. F.

On a side note if you are handicrapped and traveling, NEVER expect there to be a handicrapp room open with 2 beds, they are like trophy elk, they exist but not when your around or need one. The best advice is not to get handicrapped I guess will find out more tomorrow.

Thanks again for all the support from everyone.
 
I had a couple of trips to Bonneville get rained out for the entire week. I have also seen good weather but flooded salt from previous rains. It is one of the bitter pills you have to swallow to go land speed racing. Hope it clears up for you.
 
I checked the saltflats.com website and it looks like they've delayed until Thursday. Crossing my fingers for you, Seth, that you get to race! :popcorn:
 
I am told that thursday morning at 9 to show up out there and they may setup a different 130mph club section because it is a shorter run.

I made it thru tech, everyone out there was friendly about the spyder and of course had tons of questions.

I taped up all my glass and crap and took my wheelchair bracket off but I have a full day tomorrow so I am going to rip it off, put the bracket on. The one thing I did not have is metal valve CAPS WTF, its a easy fix.

Also they wanted me to run at LEAST 40 psi in all tires, the back is at 49.5 Kumdo rear, the stock fronts are 30 psi max but the tech dude said it be fine at 40psi, anyone ever ran that high in front???


On a side note there was a premiere edition at the Mantigo bay casino in wendover, NV it was yellow, with the big forward windshield, hindle pipe, bags, spyder style forward controls/foot pegs and Oklahama plates, was wondering if that person was on here. Hopefully it will go great, thanks again for all the support.
 
I am told that thursday morning at 9 to show up out there and they may setup a different 130mph club section because it is a shorter run.

I made it thru tech, everyone out there was friendly about the spyder and of course had tons of questions.

I taped up all my glass and crap and took my wheelchair bracket off but I have a full day tomorrow so I am going to rip it off, put the bracket on. The one thing I did not have is metal valve CAPS WTF, its a easy fix.

Also they wanted me to run at LEAST 40 psi in all tires, the back is at 49.5 Kumdo rear, the stock fronts are 30 psi max but the tech dude said it be fine at 40psi, anyone ever ran that high in front???


On a side note there was a premiere edition at the Mantigo bay casino in wendover, NV it was yellow, with the big forward windshield, hindle pipe, bags, spyder style forward controls/foot pegs and Oklahama plates, was wondering if that person was on here. Hopefully it will go great, thanks again for all the support.


That's awfully high and I doubt anyone has been there...more pressure means smaller footprint for tire and more PSI...this is usually preferred for inclement weather and perhaps they like this more for the flats...for dry weather, less pressure means more rubber on the cement and more traction...I guess they are treating the flats like a slippery road...

40 psi is likely higher than you want the tires...I don't think most of us get above 20 in the front....I'm not sure with high speed/heat/etc...that the tire will take 40...it's not supposed to take anywhere near that pressure...I'd ask someone else there if you can just go to upper limits of the tire...
 
Seth, congratulations on passing tech. That is a big hurdle, especially for a non-conventional machine. Sorry you were unaware of the metal valve caps. That has been a requirement for years. The tire pressure thing is meant to reduce heat. Cuts down on sidewall flexing. Particularly important at higher speeds or on the long course. You should have no problems with the extra pressure. Max pressures on tires are mostly there to indicate where the maximum load rating occurs. Beyond this point the load rating will not increase further. You may have some difficulty with traction at these pressures, though. Depends on the tire you are running. The Kenda had a tendency to distort at speed or higher pressures, leaving a smaller contact patch. Best of luck...still keeping our fingers crossed for you.
 
Seth, congratulations on passing tech. That is a big hurdle, especially for a non-conventional machine. Sorry you were unaware of the metal valve caps. That has been a requirement for years. The tire pressure thing is meant to reduce heat. Cuts down on sidewall flexing. Particularly important at higher speeds or on the long course. You should have no problems with the extra pressure. Max pressures on tires are mostly there to indicate where the maximum load rating occurs. Beyond this point the load rating will not increase further. You may have some difficulty with traction at these pressures, though. Depends on the tire you are running. The Kenda had a tendency to distort at speed or higher pressures, leaving a smaller contact patch. Best of luck...still keeping our fingers crossed for you.

Fascinating and good info, Scotty...you really always have great information.

Less tire on the pavement usually means better traction for wet weather whereas more rubber is better for dry conditions...it has to do with the sneaker vs. high heel effect...same force driven through smaller area will have deeper impact...

Does this not apply with the salt flats or am I missing something?
 
Fascinating and good info, Scotty...you really always have great information.

Less tire on the pavement usually means better traction for wet weather whereas more rubber is better for dry conditions...it has to do with the sneaker vs. high heel effect...same force driven through smaller area will have deeper impact...

Does this not apply with the salt flats or am I missing something?
The salt is a tricky surface, especially when damp. It is very easy to break loose the drive tire and spin. Less tire on the surface (blown up until tire is convex) usually affords less traction, similar to driving in the snow. Unfortunately, heat is a worse enemy, so high tire pressures are a necessity. The driver has to be aware and deal with any traction issues very carefully.
 
Speaking of metal valve caps; I always put them on my trucks and trailers to keep from having a valve stem failure trash a tire. But the last time I bought some at the auto parts store and when I went to screw them on, the end popped right off when they got tight. So make sure you get the ones that are a stamped or formed steel, not the ones that look like an acorn nut.
 
The salt is a tricky surface, especially when damp. It is very easy to break loose the drive tire and spin. Less tire on the surface (blown up until tire is convex) usually affords less traction, similar to driving in the snow. Unfortunately, heat is a worse enemy, so high tire pressures are a necessity. The driver has to be aware and deal with any traction issues very carefully.

Scotty, I thought that less tire on the snow is a better thing as you have the same weight distributed through a smaller area...this increases pounds per square inch (PSI) and gives you better traction. When poor conditions are not an issue, then the wider tire gives you more traction...but, with cruddy weather, you have the weight over too great of an area and this reduces traction. I remember learning this in calc. based physics...don't ask me to get the formulas for this as it'a a looong time ago! However, I'm questioning the wider tire in wet/snow conditions....this goes against the laws of physics and I'm wondering what I am missing here? I learned that wider tires good for dry pavement, narrow for snow/wet conditions...
 
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Scotty, I thought that less tire on the snow is a better thing as you have the same weight distributed through a smaller area...this increases pounds per square inch (PSI) and gives you better traction. When poor conditions are not an issue, then the wider tire gives you more traction...but, with cruddy weather, you have the weight over too great of an area and this reduces traction. I remember learning this in calc. based physics...don't ask me to get the formulas for this as it'a a looong time ago! However, I'm questioning the wider tire in wet/snow conditions....this goes against the laws of physics and I'm wondering what I am missing here? I learned that wider tires good for dry pavement, narrow for snow/wet conditions...
This is a complex issue. Take from a driver from Michigan that in general, the correct pressure in a tire is the best in snow/wet. A smaller contact patch may make for 10% higher pressure on the ground, but it is more often that the friction of the size of the contact patch is more important. For snow, it is actually the amount of tread area (edges) that can "bite" the snow. While it is true that too wide a tire will have poor traction in wet weather or snow, it is also true for too narrow a tire. Tread style, driving methods, weight over the drive wheels, and smooth application of torque are far more important than any small change in tire size, anyway, as is the use of radial tires rather than bias ply tires. Bottom line, use a tire that is sized for the vehicle, then pick a tire pressure and stay with it despite changing weather conditions. Just some practical advice from a northern boy.
 
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