• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Have you had an ECU Flash? How long did it take? Any good?

I won't claim I know HOW Monster gets to their number, however the Rotax used in the Aprilla ( which is also naturally aspirated ) claims about 160 HP …… So I think the power is in the Rotax !!!! ……….. I know about power to weight ratio's, so 10% power increase will show up on a DYNO, but not really in " seat of the pants " or 1/4 mile ( or passing ability )………….. anecdotal evidence from forum members - says Monster is the way to spend your money …..jmho …. Mike :ohyea:
 
It sure would be nice if ALL these companies selling ECU upgrades/add ons could PROVE their gains with a dyno print out. I spent my $$$ on the Monster tune based on what many folks here raved on about ( they can't all be on the payroll). I wanted plug and play-- so that's what I got.

Lew L
 
It sure would be nice if ALL these companies selling ECU upgrades/add ons could PROVE their gains with a dyno print out. I spent my $$$ on the Monster tune based on what many folks here raved on about ( they can't all be on the payroll). I wanted plug and play-- so that's what I got.

Lew L

:agree: ……… However from what I've read about Dyno-ing any Spyder, it is a bit complicated...… But I think for a TUNER who is selling this type of product it would be worthwhile financially to have it done ……. jmho …. Mike :ohyea:
 
I won't claim I know HOW Monster gets to their number, however the Rotax used in the Aprilla ( which is also naturally aspirated ) claims about 160 HP …… So I think the power is in the Rotax !!!! ……….. I know about power to weight ratio's, so 10% power increase will show up on a DYNO, but not really in " seat of the pants " or 1/4 mile ( or passing ability )………….. anecdotal evidence from forum members - says Monster is the way to spend your money …..jmho …. Mike :ohyea:

torque limiter and throttle position adjustment alone would give you " seat of the pants " or 1/4 mile improvements . i cant understand why dynojet & maptunerx would be 12% lower than with the monster tune.
after all its the same ecu tables there modifying.
 
the aprilia RSV Mille version of the 998 has different cams pistons and totally different major components and 143 HP. it's based on the same platform but not the same internally.
torque limiter and throttle position adjustment alone would give you " seat of the pants " or 1/4 mile improvements . i cant understand why dynojet & maptunerx would be 12% lower than with the monster tune.
after all its the same ecu tables there modifying.

First thank you for correcting my HP number - but what I was pointing out was that the normally aspirated ROTAX engine has lots of ponies in it - that can be released ……… with the proper engine parts...…….. and does require a TURBO or Supercharger ……… Mike :ohyea:
 
Whether 7 PS or 9 PS or 10% more horsepower is almost no matter. The force that drives you forward is important. Under what speed the newtonmeter are available. The overall package then makes the improved driveability and not the top performance, which may only be available at 8500 - 9000.
 
Dyno Jet Power Vision
“PVCX TUNES AVAILABLE

Can-Am Spyder RT 2016 has tunes, see below.

2505101
7C1153OA7VKS1 : Stock exhaust, Stock intake
2505102
7C1153OD6VMS5 : Stock exhaust, Stock intake”

Why 2016 and up? Aren’t the 1300s the same? And what are the differences between two tunes? No longer own a PC so I’m screwed ......
 
Just a little Survey for those that have had the ECU Flashed on their Spyder. Could you provide how long it is that you have being riding with the upgrade and what your results have being, etc.

Mine was done in early November 2018. Stage 2, and I am so satisfied with the vehicle now. Performance better, higher torque, no negatives. Fuel consumption the same, slightly better if you ride at constant speeds. But we live in the Adelaide hills, so the extra power is applied.
Very happy.
 
Do we need to start a Dyno jet Tuner Thread and leave the Monster thread as is??

I do have updates on the PV Tuner and CAn Am Model Year 2014 for the Tuner.
 
It's been about 3 weeks since I got my ECU back from the Stage 1 flash. The difference is amazing! However, I have always used 89 octane non-ethanol fuel. The bike had a full tank when the ECU came back. There was actually a slight increase in MPG after the flash, especially considering how many times I "tested" the flash! I've always gotten about 40 MPG according to my Acar app records. I then switched to 93 octane premium fuel with 10% ethanol. After two tanks of this fuel, my mpg has dropped to 36. I know that the ethanol causes lower MPG. I think there has only been a slight increase in power using the 93.
 
It's been about 3 weeks since I got my ECU back from the Stage 1 flash. The difference is amazing! However, I have always used 89 octane non-ethanol fuel. The bike had a full tank when the ECU came back. There was actually a slight increase in MPG after the flash, especially considering how many times I "tested" the flash! I've always gotten about 40 MPG according to my Acar app records. I then switched to 93 octane premium fuel with 10% ethanol. After two tanks of this fuel, my mpg has dropped to 36. I know that the ethanol causes lower MPG. I think there has only been a slight increase in power using the 93.

My .02 on the entire MPG's thing …. Unless you are driving almost the same roads - under the same weather conditions - driving you Spyder in a VERY similar manner ………...The variances in readings are going to be wider than you might expect ……….. There are a couple of folks here who have kept accurate records over many thousands of miles and even this isn't going to be truly accurate because who drives the same way on the same roads in the same weather ???? - NOBODY ……….. ……….. On Octane type - I've read info from Monster Fuel … they say you can use 91 oct. ( 93 isn't as widely available ) so if you use 89 oct. this is two points which is less than a 2% drop...………. Lots of OPINIONS ( not based on DYNO tests, but on BUTT tests ) where folks claim they can FEEL a drop in performance...OR improvement ….. In my REAL world experience people who have claimed great improvement in acceleration have been surprised when they had their veh's DYNO tested. …… Not " dissing " anyone here just trying to provide some perspective ……………. Mike :ohyea:
 
My .02 on the entire MPG's thing …. Unless you are driving almost the same roads - under the same weather conditions - driving you Spyder in a VERY similar manner ………...The variances in readings are going to be wider than you might expect ……….. There are a couple of folks here who have kept accurate records over many thousands of miles and even this isn't going to be truly accurate because who drives the same way on the same roads in the same weather ???? - NOBODY ……….. ……….. On Octane type - I've read info from Monster Fuel … they say you can use 91 oct. ( 93 isn't as widely available ) so if you use 89 oct. this is two points which is less than a 2% drop...………. Lots of OPINIONS ( not based on DYNO tests, but on BUTT tests ) where folks claim they can FEEL a drop in performance...OR improvement ….. In my REAL world experience people who have claimed great improvement in acceleration have been surprised when they had their veh's DYNO tested. …… Not " dissing " anyone here just trying to provide some perspective ……………. Mike :ohyea:

That's my point exactly. I am completely against having to have ethanol added to our fuels. I don't feel there is enough difference in engine performance to justify all the drawbacks of having ethanol in the fuel. And it's scientific fact that ethanol has less BTU's, which means in order to get the same engine performance from the fuel, you must burn more of it. Hence the lower MPG's. Since I ride my Spyder as a commuter-mobile and don't race it. I feel that I'm safe using the 89 non-ethanol as long as I don't lug the engine in too low of a gear.
 
That's my point exactly. I am completely against having to have ethanol added to our fuels. I don't feel there is enough difference in engine performance to justify all the drawbacks of having ethanol in the fuel. And it's scientific fact that ethanol has less BTU's, which means in order to get the same engine performance from the fuel, you must burn more of it. Hence the lower MPG's. Since I ride my Spyder as a commuter-mobile and don't race it. I feel that I'm safe using the 89 non-ethanol as long as I don't lug the engine in too low of a gear.

Jet you have the 15 RT Ltd. so you have the SE trans ….. ( so do I ) I can't think of a way to LUG that trans..... It is set-up to auto downshift when needed and I 99% sure it won't let you UP-SHIFT unless you are at the right speed and Torque load ….. please educate me if my thoughts on this are in-correct ….. Thanks …. Mike :ohyea:
 
So, now I'm a little confused. I am getting ready to have mine flashed for the following reason..... I want more power and responsiveness when touring...... especially at higher altitudes and when pulling my 622 trailer. My wife rides (my former) Goldwing when we tour. I lead. When in a passing situation, there is no way I can accelerate fast enough to get out of her way. She comes on the communicator and asks "whats wrong?". And I tell her, "I'am going as fast as I can". So, will a stage 1 get me more acceleration and power in those situations? Or, do I need to do more tweeking. Fuel mileage is not a concern and for the record, I always use premium fuel. I just want better responsiveness when I need it..... Another 15-20 ponies will do it for me. I am not interested in being able to do burn-outs, etc...... Jim
 
Jet you have the 15 RT Ltd. so you have the SE trans ….. ( so do I ) I can't think of a way to LUG that trans..... It is set-up to auto downshift when needed and I 99% sure it won't let you UP-SHIFT unless you are at the right speed and Torque load ….. please educate me if my thoughts on this are in-correct ….. Thanks …. Mike :ohyea:

True, But you can still be in too high of a gear for a given throttle application and technically be "lugging" the engine.... Yes the engine operates in that parameter but loads are much greater than if you were in a better gear for the given scenario. Like say, putting along in 4th at 2k and hammer it vs 3rd gear at 2k with the same throttle application.... I think these are the scenarios he is referring to....
 
I am larryd, I am a fan of getting the 89T rear sprockets to work on our heaver, riding double, pulling trailers RT Spyders...This would make a world of difference in the performance of the RT's...When BRP wanted to step up the performance on the F3's all they did was change to the lower gearing 89T rear sprocket...Steve at MFI had been working with two different testers for this project and thought he had it perfected but a glitch showed up...I recently talked to Steve about this task and he said he would like to have a slave RT close at hand to try and get this working...I told Steve that I would donate the 89T sprocket and belt to try and make this happen...Now all that is needed is someone that lives on the Canada side of the boarder close to Steve @ MFI so he has a Spyder in hand to work with...If I lived closer it would be me, but it takes two weeks for the most part to send the ECU back and forth...On the F3's there is a selection in the BUDS menu that you can choose 89T or 79T rear sprocket ratio...I think this is a doable task, SOMEONE JUST NEEDS TO FIGURE OUT HOW...larryd

canamjhb...My above response was to respond to your towing acceleration concerns...My screw up for not attaching to your post...And my RTS has the MFI stage 1 flash...
 
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So, now I'm a little confused. I am getting ready to have mine flashed for the following reason..... I want more power and responsiveness when touring...... especially at higher altitudes and when pulling my 622 trailer. My wife rides (my former) Goldwing when we tour. I lead. When in a passing situation, there is no way I can accelerate fast enough to get out of her way. She comes on the communicator and asks "whats wrong?". And I tell her, "I'am going as fast as I can". So, will a stage 1 get me more acceleration and power in those situations? Or, do I need to do more tweeking. Fuel mileage is not a concern and for the record, I always use premium fuel. I just want better responsiveness when I need it..... Another 15-20 ponies will do it for me. I am not interested in being able to do burn-outs, etc...... Jim

As I stated in my post #155 above …. I'm quite sure if you have an SE trans. a LUGGING scenario is not very likely …. I would try and an LUG my 2014 RT but it's buried in my basement due to WINTER :roflblack:...…….. Mike
 
True, But you can still be in too high of a gear for a given throttle application and technically be "lugging" the engine.... Yes the engine operates in that parameter but loads are much greater than if you were in a better gear for the given scenario. Like say, putting along in 4th at 2k and hammer it vs 3rd gear at 2k with the same throttle application.... I think these are the scenarios he is referring to....

Here's my thoughts on your scenario …. ( not dissing you ) …. " anyone can do something ridiculous/outrageous etc.... I think it's written in the US Constitution " , but I'm not one who would - are you ????? ( again not dissing you ) ……… BRP has done a hugh amount of homework on how to prevent a rider from having an accident ………. However they nor anyone else can prevent someone from just driving off the road or slamming into a bridge abutment …. but imho it's so rare an occurrence I don't think it's been done yet …… and again NOT dissing anyone here ….. Mike :ohyea:
 
if you put in fuel with an octane rating too low for your vehicle, it can create a knock. An octane rating is the measure of a fuel type’s ability to resist premature detonation of the air-fuel mixture in the engine. This combustion causes “knocking” or “pinging” monster change timing and knock sensor values for 91 octane fuel engine knock can do thisdownload.jpg .from the monster website ''Note: 89 or 87 can be used in an ''emergency''. If used, stay below 50% grip throttle and don't lug engine in a high gear with low rpm. Keep engine rpms higher (5000+rpm) only using low gears. The throttle opening should never outpace
engine rpm (load engine). Cycle fuel tank before riding normal again. Always use 91+ on stage 2 setups'' doesn't sound like fun to me to stay below 50% throttle i wouldn't risk it with 89 or 87 unless i had to. you do not get good mpg with melted valves and pistons
 
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